• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Pre mix advice

I will never run any bike with less than 32:1. Properly jetted there is no drool on the exhaust tip and very little smoke. Here is a pic of my Honda CR500, 32:1 Maxima.

8075021024_c10cfa4f7c_b.jpg


No smoke.
 
yup still no problem with 82-1 on kmx its only a 200cc but i was informed if you use less oil you leave your small end bearing to overheating issues, ive yet to see any unusal discoloring and no blueing anywhere, i like the husky more so i treat her nicer :thumbsup:
 
Maxima 927 32:1 is what I use on my dirt bikes. Better to go too rich than lean. The only drawback to castor is carbon build-up in ring grooves, piston top and cylinder head. I also run higher leaded octane and that doesn't help. As with my Kawi H2 750, Yamaha IT 125, I pull the cylinder, check piston & ring tolerances, clean ring grooves with an old ring (stuck rings are a sure killer of two strokes) scrape the piston top and cylinder top with a dull butter knife. The Kawai has 34 thousand miles on it on original bore and have yet siezed a two stroke. Castor will gum in the low 50's. I also drain my carb after every ride too.
 
bean oil- great for WFO racing in most ambient temps, watch your jetting. use in WFO engines that see freuqent t/d. keep it agitated and toss what you dont use. not good for trail use at all.

for most all uses? Motul 710 2T @ 50:1. low smoke, no coke. super clean. even if mixed too rich and under slow techincal conditions for days the pipe and ports wont coke up. pistons come out clean.

for WFO/hard racing, Motul 800 2T @ 50:1. no coke. super clean.

these are far and away the two best 2T oils going. made for 50:1 ratio.
 
The frequent tear downs and build up with castor, at least degumed modern castors like Maxima 927, is a myth. I just recently rebuilt my '79 Maico 440 after 5 years of running nothing but 927. It was very clean with no buildup on the head and only very minimal buildup on the crown of the piston. Proper jetting is far more important to build up than oil. Also, Motul 800 is a vegetable based oil but instead of castor bean oil it uses mostly palm oil, it is no "cleaner" than 927.
 
That's true.
I've been using 927 in my RM for 5 years, and although I do a piston and ring every year, the power valve and head had never been off until this winter. They were both spotless.
 
Years ago there was a guy on thumpertalk that raced a fleet of kx 80's for dirt track. He was constantly splitting cases replacing rod kits, when he switched to castor 927 he only had to overhaul them on a houred-out basis.
 
Years ago there was a guy on thumpertalk that raced a fleet of kx 80's for dirt track. He was constantly splitting cases replacing rod kits, when he switched to castor 927 he only had to overhaul them on a houred-out basis.

so the question is,,,, what did he switch from Wesson :D
I use canola oil as it has less polysaturated fatty oi,,,,,,,,, never mind
 
I hear those stories too, but I dont think changing to something like 927 makes THAT much difference. Like I said in my first response, there really are no bad oils today, but some do have advantages over others but the differences are small. I would suspect something else was at play that suddenly caused him to stop doing rod kits.
 
The only time ive done a rod bearing is from having a mr MC Hanic shave the head too much and it wore the big end out in 8 months, was hard to start with snappy compression.
 
Finally got to the point of now being able to fire up the 450 , what oil ratio should I ideally be using, it's a 72 wr that will be used purely for motocross, would my 250 wr of similar age also be the same ratio.
Cheer,s
Daz
Are you any the wiser yet:lol::lol::lol:
 
I am not giving any advice.

Some chaninsaw operators have been getting bike specific oil however synthetic two cycle oil for chainsaws (other outdoor power equipment as well) is showing up in a lot of places like home improvement stores and hardware stores lately. I will put a link to a genuine husqvarna product though not associated with the motorcycle industry.

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accesso...cants/xp-professional-peformance-2-cycle-oil/

ISO-L-EGD, JASO FD Is the newest standard and can be achieved with synthetic blend, maybe straight conventional but full synthetic meeting these standards are showing up in a lot of places and hardly any more cost. I think the ones ending in D have the most advanced detergent packages as some of the mufflers are cat mufflers I think we can guess what that means. Just for reference one could wander around the Amzoil site they have a number of two stroke synthetic products.

It has been on here and elsewhere the cylinder benefits from more oil in the mix after it makes no difference to the crank. I doubt more than 40:1 would be of any added benefit with full synthetic.

fran
 
Stick with an 32:1 good quality oil (motul has been named ) and you cant go wrong. once youve got some time on the bike maybe fiddle a little but the advice re jetting is the best advice i have seen on this thread. once its right, the other problems disappear. Get some high quality fuel and do some jetting runs or get an experienced man on the job as when its running right it will be a delight.
 
I recommend Opti 2 stroke oil at 10,621,398 to 1 ratio to all my competitors, Because i'm a good guy, I help adjust their air pressure at 45 PSI. front and rear tires. Wouldn't want anyone to have a flat ;-)

PS: I am a believer in Blendzall castor 32 to 1, it is getting harder to find and someday I suppose I will have to change to Maxima 927

Opti2.jpg
 
I make sure they have plenty of lube on their brake discs, wouldnt want it to rust;) and i allus tells em t o tighten that chain so there is no slop!:D
 
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