• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Primary Kick Issue

arbortodd2

arbortodd2

Husqvarna
AA Class
Have never been able to kick start my 83 xc250 in gear with the clutch pulled in. Will only start in neutral. Any ideas on what the issue could be?
 
check the adjustment inside the clutch cover as it's critical
consider putting newer plates in it too
different fluids cause different effects
just some common thoughts for solutions from over the years
 
Well I had just adjusted the clutch as it was at zero play. Now waiting on new fluid and gasket to arrive to button it up so maybe that will help. When it was in adjustment kicking it over in gear with the clutch lever pulled in would just move the bike forward. Fiber plates were still within spec at the time I rebuilt the engine. Maybe it is time to replace the clutch disks. I run BelRay 80w. Thanks for the input.:thumbsup:
 
ct cr430 said:
Stock magura lever and perch ?
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Period correct Magura perch and lever, but I don’t believe it’s stock. Dogleg lever, with the non-painted single piece perch. I do use the clutch while riding to keep rpms up. The clutch itself seems to work fine so far as normal shifting and keeping it on the pipe.
 
Ok , reason i asked , rebuilt my 81 430 not too long ago , all new bearings and person who did the bearing work had put on a new longer clutch arm by the cases . I had been using a lever and perch meant for a honda . Not a good combo as for as i’m concerned . Honda lever and perch had some drag but with the new lever by cases way too much drag . Finally changed back to a magura , not perfect but much much better . Before i couldn’t even pit into gear without it feeling like it wanted to stall . I’m still using that longer lever at cases but with magura lever . I’ve never tried to start mine in gear even tho it is a primary kick , guess that goes back to when before you could start them in gear . If you haven’t already i will suggest to verify all earths/grounds are good and corrosion free as to me it appears that the ignitions work better that way . I will use a vom to test from the stator to the ignition coil has a good solid path .
 
That does make sense that the longer lever would change the geometry and make the clutch not work properly without some sort of adjustment. I can get by without the primary kick as you stated, but it would be nice to take advantage of it at times, especially when stalling the bike. It may just be that the fiber disks are now worn to the point of needing replacement as 2Premo mentioned above. I will measure them tomorrow. I did notice a nice groove worn in the pressure plate and may get that turned out at a machine shop. Used some 220 grit to get the worst of it, but that method probably doesn’t lend itself to a flat surface.
 
Change the clutch lever to the Magura dog leg style like original, Make sure your cable is lubed good and is not kinked or tied down super tight to the frame. Change the aluminum disks in the clutch to steel and adjust the clutch assembly as per the manual. And finally use Torco MTF-L 75W oil. I have no problem starting any of my Huskys in gear.

Marty
 
motomwo said:
Change the clutch lever to the Magura dog leg style like original, Make sure your cable is lubed good and is not kinked or tied down super tight to the frame. Change the aluminum disks in the clutch to steel and adjust the clutch assembly as per the manual. And finally use Torco MTF-L 75W oil. I have no problem starting any of my Huskys in gear.

Marty
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Just measured the clutch stack with the clutch still on the bike. The fiber plates are 3.5 mm plus, which is within spec. However the overall stack is 29 mm. I believe this is 2-3mm shy of spec which would indicate the metal plates are the culprit. I will order the steel plates and install. Probably will just replace fiber plates too while the clutch is apart. Hopefully this will fix the issue. I have the dog leg lever on the bike with the one piece Magura aluminum perch. Can I assume the black coated split perch is stock? I wouldn’t think the perch would matter all that much since the levers have full movement. Thanks Marty and to all who gave advice. I’ll post again once the clutch has been rebuilt and report the results. Ordered the disks from Phil at husqvarna-parts.com.
 
If i remember correctly , for 81 it was a split perch . Not sure it it was changes after that . I guess i should be a bit clearer , I was using a lever and perch meant for a Honda not a magura assembly . Found that magura seems to pull cable farther than what i was using ( non-magura ). That was my reason for asking . Good luck .
 
New Barnett clutch with steel disks arrived this week. Installed it today, adjusted as per the manual and the primary kick now works like a charm. The thing is, the new clutch stack is only just slightly thicker (.5mm) than the old stack. Also, had a local machine shop remove the ridges and grooves from the pressure plate surface that mates to the clutch disks. Thanks to all who gave advice.
 
Don't know if this applies to the 80's but all the pre 75 motors I've rebuilt with clutch issues had warped plates and discs. They end up looking like a very shallow bowl when looking at them from the end with a straight edge across the top. These pre 75 clutches only have 2mm of travel so when the entire stack is warped 2mm isn't enough for them to separate completely, btw when the clutch is engaged I believe the clutch stack is flat for the most part until its disengaged. Why do they warp? Based on my findings on a recent 73 450 motor rebuild, the gearbox oil isn't changed often enough. Micro metal particles suspended in the oil get between the plates and discs causing them to slip, get hot, and warp. Even a clutch stack thats well within OEM specs will fail if the oil is allowed to have an excessive amount of metal particles. Like I said, don't know if this applies to the 80's.
 
motomwo said:
Change the clutch lever to the Magura dog leg style like original, Make sure your cable is lubed good and is not kinked or tied down super tight to the frame. Change the aluminum disks in the clutch to steel and adjust the clutch assembly as per the manual. And finally use Torco MTF-L 75W oil. I have no problem starting any of my Huskys in gear.

Marty
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Even the AUTOs Marty?:busted:
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Even the AUTOs Marty?:busted:
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I had to start my 420 AE in gear once when one of the first clutch springs broke. I took the side cover off while out on the trail and dug out the three pieces of spring and removed the remaining part of the spring from the clutch. Then put the cover back on and started in gear and finished my ride all though a shorter ride than planned.:applause:
 
Hahahahha, Just Jamming you Marty!! I was in St Regis MT 2 weeks ago, just a little too far for a visit! Next Year, MT, YOU and Santa Barbara CA to get some tools. Hope all is well with you and yours!! Chris
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Hahahahha, Just Jamming you Marty!! I was in St Regis MT 2 weeks ago, just a little too far for a visit! Next Year, MT, YOU and Santa Barbara CA to get some tools. Hope all is well with you and yours!! Chris
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Yep we are doing good. And hope you all are doing good too. I have been selling my Huskys off. I will keep a few to ride when I feel like it. I have been doing my hotrod VW bugs lately. Heck yea if you come out this way let me know. We aren't to far from Montana. In years past I have picked a few Huskys and Maico from there. One of them I still ride is my 81 420AE.
 
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