• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Problem with flakey clutch on my TXC??

B

Bugsinteeth

Husqvarna
AA Class
Good day folks. I’m hoping some experienced folks can chime in on a problem I am having with my clutch.

Bike: 2008 Husky TXC 450

Symptoms:

From stopped, when taking off at a normal pace, I reach the clutch engagement point and it is super flakey. It behaves like the clutch is partially disengaging and engaging rapidly . This results in uneven pull away from stopped, much like jackrabbit starts of a person learning to use a clutch for the very first time. This condition is only felt from stopped, 2,3,4,5 shifts no problem. As bike comes up to full operating temperature the problem goes away???

Background:

Low hrs. Bike bought recently with 35 hrs. Currently 80hrs. Just returned from a Baja trip of 2500 km where a buddy was riding the bike. I was on the trip so I know he struggled in the tough stuff. Some clutch abuse was likely involved. Buddy says clutch worked flawlessly throughout the trip. No issues.

Post trip I did regular servicing oil/ filter ect. No weirdness/surprises. I decided to install an Oberon clutch slave cyl as a preventive measure and set aside the stock magura as a spare.

Problem starts. I assume I have done a poor job of bleeding out air from system and proceed to bleed several times. Top down (conventional) and bottom up with syringe. Always get nice firm lever but problem remains. Thoroughly clean/ dry/inspect all components master/line/slave to check for leaks. None found.

So:

Do you think my problem is with the hydraulic actuation system? OR Is it something internal in the clutch?

Anyone else have difficulty after installing an Oberon slave?

Is there mystery spot where air collects in the hydro system that requires a special bleeding technique?

Has my buddy rooted the clutch plates ect. During his struggles in some fairly harsh Baja single track?

If clutch pack disassembly is recommended, what signs should I look for to indicate damage?



Many thanks for your help with this.

Bugs.

 
Have you tried refitting the original slave.
Only having the trouble after replacing it sounds odd, may be something wrong with the new unit.
 
Guys,

Prior to this problem cropping up I had briefly fitted the new oberon slave to another bike where it worked without issue so not a likely candidate for source of the problem. Good suggestion though.

The stock slave had the piston oring damaged when I disassembled and I am currently waiting on an Uptite x ring as a replacement. Once it's repaired I intend to install and see if things change. Not betting on this solving problem though.

Regards,

Bugs
 
I had this problem once and it turned out to be a broken clutch plate (the one on the very inside).
 
Good thread, my low hours '09 TE450 is doing same, all on stock components.
There is a clutch slave piston / seal kit available rom 7602 that I will try.
 
Wolf,

Thanks for the reply. Did you experience all the symptoms as described above or just some?

I appreciate you helping me nail down some possible solutions prior to disassembly.

Cheers,

Bugs
 
Bugsinteeth said:
Guys,

Prior to this problem cropping up I had briefly fitted the new oberon slave to another bike where it worked without issue so not a likely candidate for source of the problem. Good suggestion though.

The stock slave had the piston oring damaged when I disassembled and I am currently waiting on an Uptite x ring as a replacement. Once it's repaired I intend to install and see if things change. Not betting on this solving problem though.

Regards,

Bugs
Click to expand...


No chance of any bits coming away with the old slave when removed? (probably not, just asking):)

No. 8 is the pushing pin for releasing the clutch, has bearing etc. on it....

TE Clutch.PNG
 
Dangermouse,

No lost/misplaced bits on removal of slave.

I haven't disassembled the clutch pack yet.... but the one in your diagram is for the 449/511 german motor. My bike is a 2008 Italian.....I don't think the actuator is the same and not sure about the #8 push pin bearing set up. Again I think these parts are not present on my clutch assembly.

Cheers,

Bugs
 
So I had a look see inside the clutch pack and nothing seemed glaringly out of wack but my knowledge base is limited. Don't have a lot of clutch repair experience.

All fiber plates were well within allowable tolerance new is .118 in. mine were between .118 and .116 Limit is .114

Steel plates looked good they were a very dark graphite grey colour. Some people speak of bluing on the steel plates, I'm not sure how this would look??? If they are meant to look bright silver mine definitely are not....

I attempted some flatness tests but this seems like a bit of a stretch to gague effectively. Nothing stood out as very warped.

One odd thing was all the fiber plates have a little U shaped cut out on the outer metal tabs (I assume for alignment purposes) . All fiber plates had the U tabs stacked up together except for the outermost fiber plate????

One other thing I noticed was the contact surface (circular) on the outer aluminum hub assembly was not entirely uniform. The wear marks on the contact face were narrower on about 20-30% of the total. Perhaps warpage???

Springs were just within allowable New 1.61 in limit 1.53 Mine 1.53+

Outer basket (anodized gold) showed no evidence of wear/chatter marks.
Inner basket where the teeth on the steels grip show little round hit marks throughout. Probably normal as this is a high load area????

I reassembled all parts in exactly the same order and configuration as how they came apart.

If anyone has any experienced thoughts on my issue. Please advise.

Don't really want to start changing clutch bits willy nilly. That could get unnecessarily expensive very quickly.

Regards,

Bugs
 
Could be clutch springs going out ?

Scott Summers

( the Man's Man, wish I could deadlift my bike like he does ! )

recommended putting a spark plus washer under or over them to extend life a little.

Hope this helps !
 
Shawbridgehusky,

The springs are all still within the service limit so not sure this is my issue. I'll investigate shimming them with a washer to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Bugs
 
I just received my replacement X ring for the stock slave cyl. Installed. No change. Original symptoms persist with oberon or stock slave.

Anyone have any fresh ideas about this problem????

I can't believe I'm the only one with these symptoms/condition......

Thanks for your input,

Bugs
 
Bugsinteeth said:
I just received my replacement X ring for the stock slave cyl. Installed. No change. Original symptoms persist with oberon or stock slave.

Anyone have any fresh ideas about this problem????

I can't believe I'm the only one with these symptoms/condition......

Thanks for your input,

Bugs
Click to expand...

Really surprised the oring change was not the fix ... That has been the only thing to go wrong with my Husky HYRO clutch bikes with ~1,500 hrs between 3 bikes ... My 08 TXC 250 with ~1100 hrs needed a second oring after the ~800 hr mark ... I live on my clutch lever in sweet synchronization with my throttle...If you are not smelling clutch fibers burning, it is not abuse.

You stated above:

Post trip I did regular servicing oil/ filter ect. No weirdness/surprises. I decided to install an Oberon clutch slave cyl as a preventive measure and set aside the stock magura as a spare.

Problem starts.


I'd go back to this point in time and try again ... Maybe reverse bleed the system ... And be sure you are using the correct fluid till you get the bike working again .. Also, I'd forget that basket stuff till further notice ....
 
How did the pushrod from the slave to the clutch look? Is it mushroomed at all on one end? Maybe the Oberon slave allows the piston to sit just a little off. Is it the stock piston or is it a 7602 Racing piston?
 
Ray Ray & 268 Fords,

Thanks for your further tips/assistance.

Clutch has been forward bled, back bled, repeat ect. Correct magura blood is being used (pink) The clutch lever is firm, not spongy as if air is present.

Pushrod looks good. A previous bike of mine had a mushroomed end so I know what to look for there.......

The magura master has the stock piston. Slave bore looked perfect prior to install of Uptite X ring (about 40 hrs. on bike at time of disassembly). I have previous experience with this on a different bike. Earlier bike was changed to X ring early on and worked great for six years. Eventually that slave died due to scratched bore so I am familiar with what little damage it takes to kill the bore on these things.....

Both the brand new oberon and the updated stock slave result in the same condition. At this point I would think it highly unlikely that the slave is my problem. Firm lever after bleed process suggests this is not my problem either.......????????

I do appreciate your help in sorting this problem.

Thanks,

Bugs
 
I think my next step will be to replace the clutch springs or try beefing up the old ones with a washer as suggested earlier.

I'm all ears if there are any experienced hands with other constructive ideas......This is becoming a frustrating issue.

Bugs
 
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