• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Psssst, Hey buddy you wanna see my buddies Redhead naked?

Really good pics of the breakdown. Lots of info I just haven't got around to checking out yet , including a good look at the rear shock mount.
How ever one thing worries me a bit. In the shot where the shot looks down on the air box base plate there is what looks like either the air temp sensor ( most likely ) or a air volume sensor ( common on cars to add a variable to the ecu mapping). IF it is a air VOLUME sensor then any change to the velocity and crossectional area of the air box will modify the fuel map and change the amount of fuel to the engine.
IF it is an air temp sensor then having the filter upstream from the sensor ,will make decrease the airflow and the heat from the engine below will heat the airbox and make it read as HOTTER than it should. that would lean the motor even furthur. If you have a booster plug , from what I remember from fiting it it takes the std sensor out of the circuit, it will have no effect. If the original sensor is still in the circuit it will partially negate the plugs effect. Feel free to correct me on this. I just can't remember whether it takes it out of the circuit or not.
 
Greg Jetnikoff said:
Really good pics of the breakdown. Lots of info I just haven't got around to checking out yet , including a good look at the rear shock mount.
How ever one thing worries me a bit. In the shot where the shot looks down on the air box base plate there is what looks like either the air temp sensor ( most likely ) or a air volume sensor ( common on cars to add a variable to the ecu mapping). IF it is a air VOLUME sensor then any change to the velocity and crossectional area of the air box will modify the fuel map and change the amount of fuel to the engine.
IF it is an air temp sensor then having the filter upstream from the sensor ,will make decrease the airflow and the heat from the engine below will heat the airbox and make it read as HOTTER than it should. that would lean the motor even furthur. If you have a booster plug , from what I remember from fiting it it takes the std sensor out of the circuit, it will have no effect. If the original sensor is still in the circuit it will partially negate the plugs effect. Feel free to correct me on this. I just can't remember whether it takes it out of the circuit or not.
Click to expand...

It's an intake air thermistor, Booster Plug doesn't take the OEM IAT out of the circuit, it just piggy-backs (adds a non-linear variable resistance) onto it. So it's needed.

That concern about temperature sensing has been raised, it can be tested by using a two probe (thermocouple type) digital thermometer (available for $21). My guess is there will be enough turbulence & mixture inside the box so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
HF,

I was noticing the grips you have on your bike. Did you delete using the stock plastic tube on the clutch side of the bar? And curious if you are running grip heaters?
 
Thanks HF. I knew someone had done the tube, heaters, and aftermarket grips. I must have not wrestled with the aftermarket grips enough to get them on.
 
Couple tricks help. Warm up the new grip.....in the sun, with a hair dryer, or very carefully from a distance with a heat gun. Just get it warm, not hot.

Add some liquid to the mating surfaces. I've used water in a pinch. Takes a while to evaporate, so you can't ride for a while. But a grip glue is the best choice. I prefer ProGrip glue....comes in a small tube, and is available everywhere. It lubes to help slide on the grip, then dries nicely to keep it firm. I'll let it sit overnight, before riding.....whenever possible.

Just make sure you disassemble the throttle tube and clean out any excess glue after installing the grip on that side. Don't want any sticky glue interfering with the twisting motion. I like....no, I demand....a VERY smooth throttle control. I'll clean and lube the tube with white lithium grease, as you can see in my ADV post.

HF
 
Clete said:
Thanks HF. I knew someone had done the tube, heaters, and aftermarket grips. I must have not wrestled with the aftermarket grips enough to get them on.
Click to expand...

Get yourself a bottle of hair spray, it acts as lube while it's still wet and as glue as it dries out.
 
No....maybe not. You have to use "two sets" of grips when plastic tubes are on both sides & you're adding heat panels.

Use the throttle grip (larger ID) on both sides to get over the extra thickness. You won't be using the two smaller ID grips in the packages (normally for the left side).

HF
 
don't forget to connect that one hose.... (kidding... They made that about as complicated as they could have it seems.
 
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