• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Question about frame grounding

SnoDrtRider said:
Yeah, I gave them a few taps with a very small hammer and a long skinny drift and decided that they didn't want to move.
Click to expand...
they press out with some heat but i only do it to match good bushings in good cases, or remove good bushes from damaged cases, etc.
 
Hi SnoDrtRider , yes I have thought about that also . Should be easy to verify with an ohm meter . Thanks for mentioning that . If the leaves at the motor mounts were causing an issue , you should be able to test for that . 1lead on the stator and the other lead on the sleave ( clear bare metal ) you should be able to identify that easily . The ohm meter will measure the path of least resistance between the leads . So if your engine is out of the frame , very easy to check with a meter . Now lets say your engine is mounted and bolted into the frame and you want to check these leaves individually , not so easy as there may be 1 sleave where there is some corrosion and the others are good . What you might find is that it tests good as it's reading a different path than what you expect but overall the grounding circuit is good . So in my opinion the best most accurate time to check is when the engine is out of the frame then you would either eliminate or identify a problem .
Now I check mounts while engine is on the bench , after engine is bolted into the frame and lastly stator to coil after the coil is bolted down .
 
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