That is odd because there are endless threads with people having issues and husky even made updated parts so that alone would seem to indicate an issue.
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Question for the machinist..turning flywheel on lathe TXC 310
- Thread starter guscycle
- Start date
That is odd because there are endless threads with people having issues and husky even made updated parts so that alone would seem to indicate an issue.
Oh joy another silly oil thread. Even Though I'm sure you know thats not what he was saying...
This is a good read, some useful info and lab tested comparisons of oil. Amsoil does really well in a majority of the tests. Spectro is mid pack at best and is next to last in the critical wear test (Wear Protection (4-Ball, ASTM D-4172).
http://www.barmacinc.com/amsoilpdfs/Study of Motorcycle Oils.pdf
back to the starter gear deal, the deformation obviously shows a bad design and a non linear wear groove. Almost seems like an alignment issue. Is it a worm gear that drives that?
http://www.barmacinc.com/amsoilpdfs/Study of Motorcycle Oils.pdf
back to the starter gear deal, the deformation obviously shows a bad design and a non linear wear groove. Almost seems like an alignment issue. Is it a worm gear that drives that?
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Thanks Kelly, that was a really good read. I was wondering about the age of the article based upon the zinc levels listed, it is 2006. Since then, SARA/EPA has set restrictions on the limits based upon oil viscosity weights per the SM/SN ratings. I have researched MSDS on "S" brand and they too comply, even in their "off road" formula. I would of loved to of seen M1 0W40 in those tests. 
As far as earlier comments go on 50 weight oils, I'll try to explain.
Based upon whether or not we are discussing synthetic or conventional oils, produces the primary basis on which actual oil weights in which we use. Since conventional is based upon the lower number in a 20W50 rating, the base weight is grade 20. However, in synthetic, and this is mainly which we discuss, the base weight is grade 50. This is because synthetic uses polymers which thin the oil instead of utilizing viscosity improvers such as VI which artificially help to raise viscosity at elevated temperatures. When the synthetic additive breakdown occurs, we are left with the ----> 50 weight and not the 20<------. So when adding synthetic 20 winter 50 to our crank case, we are adding an oil based upon 50 weight oil. What I should of said is that we would be adding an oil based upon 18cst@100°C, but I didn't wish to sound like a robot.
So the difference between using a 50 weight oil and a 40 is the difference between 18cst and 13cst@100°C. In layman's terms, you gain approximately 28% more flow. Some 50 weight oils such as Motorex are as high as 24cst@100°C and in this case, there is 46% greater flow. Better flow, better cooling, longer lasting investment.
As far as earlier comments go on 50 weight oils, I'll try to explain.
Based upon whether or not we are discussing synthetic or conventional oils, produces the primary basis on which actual oil weights in which we use. Since conventional is based upon the lower number in a 20W50 rating, the base weight is grade 20. However, in synthetic, and this is mainly which we discuss, the base weight is grade 50. This is because synthetic uses polymers which thin the oil instead of utilizing viscosity improvers such as VI which artificially help to raise viscosity at elevated temperatures. When the synthetic additive breakdown occurs, we are left with the ----> 50 weight and not the 20<------. So when adding synthetic 20 winter 50 to our crank case, we are adding an oil based upon 50 weight oil. What I should of said is that we would be adding an oil based upon 18cst@100°C, but I didn't wish to sound like a robot.
So the difference between using a 50 weight oil and a 40 is the difference between 18cst and 13cst@100°C. In layman's terms, you gain approximately 28% more flow. Some 50 weight oils such as Motorex are as high as 24cst@100°C and in this case, there is 46% greater flow. Better flow, better cooling, longer lasting investment.
Tinken
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The starter gear does use a worm gear. From the pictures, you can see metal deformation near the top of the gear where the soft metal is actually peeled back, not worn. Updated gear sets are supposed to be hardened to stop this from happening. Obviously the thinner oil does allow for greater flow density between the two gears. However, I fear that no matter which oil is used, this will continue to happen until the gears have reached the ability to handle the load pressure.
I remember Bill working on a set of upgraded gears to solve this issue. If for some reason this isn't worked out between Husqvarna and it's customer base in the future, we will look into resolving this issue once and for all.
I remember Bill working on a set of upgraded gears to solve this issue. If for some reason this isn't worked out between Husqvarna and it's customer base in the future, we will look into resolving this issue once and for all.
guscycle
Husqvarna
AA Class
..I have had doubts if these were the "updated" gear set as was I informed by the dealer 
. I would like to look into this "warranty replacement" by the dealer. Is there a way to see if an actual claim was made on these bikes? I know when I was a dealer several years ago,I would file a factory warranty claim and sometimes I would have to hold onto the parts for a month maybe even longer or would have to submit the part with the claim.Whatever the case ,I would have a copy of the claim on file or I could contact Husqvarna (Cagiva USA) and get a copy. If the dealer is not making good on this issue and is making false claims ,I don't know...I just want to serve my customers with the correct solution and resolve this a.s.a.p.. Now it's unfortunate these kits are on factory back order 
. I would like to look into this "warranty replacement" by the dealer. Is there a way to see if an actual claim was made on these bikes? I know when I was a dealer several years ago,I would file a factory warranty claim and sometimes I would have to hold onto the parts for a month maybe even longer or would have to submit the part with the claim.Whatever the case ,I would have a copy of the claim on file or I could contact Husqvarna (Cagiva USA) and get a copy. If the dealer is not making good on this issue and is making false claims ,I don't know...I just want to serve my customers with the correct solution and resolve this a.s.a.p.. Now it's unfortunate these kits are on factory back order
Great info thanks. I have a buddy with a 310 with 4500 miles on it, need to get him to look at his. I don't like worm drives because of the small contact patch on the receiving gear and that the worm drive gear is usually long and can flex and cause issues. I have seen some of these same issues using worm drives in other devices. I have to wonder if when the motors decomp does not work well which seems to be a case a lot then there is more pressure on the worm drive than usual and it deflects and walks up the driven gear and causes this deformation.
Ive had the same problem, having had the 'revised' gearing fitted after a failure on my 1st race 3 days after i bought it has lasted 10 weeks then the same has happened.
My decomp valve was set at 009/.227 so i have re-shimmed to 007/.18 as the next size down too small i.e 005/.127.
Im fitting the new gears tonight and hope it will last this time, i have also bought some Mobil 1 oil 0w40, removed the thermostat and housing and bought this oil additive similar to that recommended. Im awaiting a SS oil filter also!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221372857009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hopefully this will sort it!
Removed gearing; Unable to add pic dont know why but looks the same as above, gnarled after 10 hours****************************************
My decomp valve was set at 009/.227 so i have re-shimmed to 007/.18 as the next size down too small i.e 005/.127.
Im fitting the new gears tonight and hope it will last this time, i have also bought some Mobil 1 oil 0w40, removed the thermostat and housing and bought this oil additive similar to that recommended. Im awaiting a SS oil filter also!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221372857009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hopefully this will sort it!
Removed gearing; Unable to add pic dont know why but looks the same as above, gnarled after 10 hours****************************************
Michael Collins
Husqvarna
B Class
The starter gear does use a worm gear. From the pictures, you can see metal deformation near the top of the gear where the soft metal is actually peeled back, not worn. Updated gear sets are supposed to be hardened to stop this from happening. Obviously the thinner oil does allow for greater flow density between the two gears. However, I fear that no matter which oil is used, this will continue to happen until the gears have reached the ability to handle the load pressure.
I remember Bill working on a set of upgraded gears to solve this issue. If for some reason this isn't worked out between Husqvarna and it's customer base in the future, we will look into resolving this issue once and for
The starter gear does use a worm gear. From the pictures, you can see metal deformation near the top of the gear where the soft metal is actually peeled back, not worn. Updated gear sets are supposed to be hardened to stop this from happening. Obviously the thinner oil does allow for greater flow density between the two gears. However, I fear that no matter which oil is used, this will continue to happen until the gears have reached the ability to handle the load pressure.
I remember Bill working on a set of upgraded gears to solve this issue. If for some reason this isn't worked out between Husqvarna and it's customer base in the future, we will look into resolving this issue once and for all.
The starter gear does use a worm gear. From the pictures, you can see metal deformation near the top of the gear where the soft metal is actually peeled back, not worn. Updated gear sets are supposed to be hardened to stop this from happening. Obviously the thinner oil does allow for greater flow density between the two gears. However, I fear that no matter which oil is used, this will continue to happen until the gears have reached the ability to handle the load pressure.
I remember Bill working on a set of upgraded gears to solve this issue. If for some reason this isn't worked out between Husqvarna and it's customer base in the future, we will look into resolving this issue once and for all.
Hi There
i have a Husky 310r , i had my cog behind the flywheel shatter i replaced it along with the clutch , now my starter motor is burnt out , my Husky dealer is now telling me these are a bad design wasn't much said when i was buying the bike "obviously" and probaly have to go through the same process every couple of years by changing The "Flywheel - Clutch - Starter wheel Cog and possibly the starter motor , Should this have been a recall!! my bike is now out of warranty is there a way to contact the manufacturer to see what they could do .
Cheers.....................Michael