Race Map 3 from Race Map 2 2013 TE449

[HOX]

Hello there! I'm running your Race Map 2 on my 2013 TE449. I've removed the butterfly flaps in the intake. Running a FMF exhaust. Bike runs great, but hot....will the RM3 help with overheating? Also, can you provide some clarity on what, if anything, needs to be done to the O2 sensor on the header when running RM 2 or 3? On an unrelated note, there is quite a bit of clutch drag on this bike. Are you aware of anything that can be done or is it time for a new clutch? Yes, I've bled the clutch line already. Thanks! Greg

 

[Huskynoobee]

Hi Greg,

If you've had us map your ECU, then we loaded the Acropovic open exhaust race map. This is equivalent to Race Map 3 posts you might be seeing on social media. Even with the original mapping once you plug in the jumper under the seat on the ECU harness to enable Race Map II to show on the dash, the O2 sensor is bypassed.
For the hot temps:
Have you made sure the radiator fan comes on when it's hot? It should come on if you let it sit and idle for 5-10 minutes. If that's not happening, then you will need to determine if the temp sensor or the fan wiring is the culprit.
For the clutch drag:
What oil are you using? We have been using Mobil 1 0W40 Euro Car formula for years with good results. Also, depending on the milage you may need to adjust the shim spacing on the clutch actuator. The clutch on these bikes runs at the same speed as the crank with no gear reduction, so both oil and adjustments are key factors. However, with all that being said there are plenty of folks out there who can't make it go away.

 

[HOX]

Hi Huskynoobee! Thank you for your reply! I appreciate it! The fan issue was one of the relays. I replaced all three, so that's fixed. I plugged the O2 sensor hole in the header. About the clutch.....I'm using Castrol 10-30w and never had any problems with clutch drag until it came back from the shop after a top end rebuild. Upon changing the oil after the first couple of hours of riding I was surprised to find two pieces of a 1/16 drill bit attached to the magnet on the oil plug. The mechanic said he had to repair some bunged up threads while replacing the water pump seal. He did not notice breaking the bit. He's semi responsive now, so I'm not sure where this will end up, but I do have a couple questions. 1. On the first oil change, there were a lot of small brassy flakes. Are there any components in the clutch area that could have come in contact with the drill bit and resulted in brass shavings? 2. I realize that brassy shavings can be associated with a bad bushing, but I did not see any flakes after the second oil change...(I only rode it long enough to warm it up) Do you have any insight and can you speculate as to what kind of damage, if any, may have resulted from a drill bit (two pieces totaling about 1/2 long) floating around in clutch basket or crankcase? Thank you!

 

[Teambowles]

Check your fly wheel bolts and stator they've been known to cause major problems. Bolt backs out shredding stator causing fragments of brass in oil. Half inch Long brass shavings don't sound like a bearing more like stator Imo. Mobil 1 0w 40 for sure. In Austria 4 stroke bout 9 pages back there's some threads about this issue or search fly wheel stator. Hopefully it's just break in gunk n you'll be good

 

[HOX]

Hi Teambowles! Thank you for the reply! The shavings are not 1/2 inch long, they are very fine and small brassy specks. (The drill bit left in the crankcase was 1/2"). Ya, I just saw a video about the stator bolts...will look into that for sure!

 

[Huskynoobee]

Yep, check the stator for sure. There are no brass bushings in the motor, it's all bearings. You can either drop the oil or lay it over on it's side and inspect the stator condition.

The motor is technically a dry sump design. Those two screens ahead of the drain plug are there to filter debris before oil circulates through the two eaton type pumps that feed oil to the bottom end and can chain for the top.

 

[HOX]

Huskynoobee! Thanks for the reply! Super helpful to know there are no brass bushings in the motor....Does the clutch have any components that are brass? I saw a good video on the the fix for the stator bolts....Looks easy enough...

 

[David Edge]

Hello there! I'm running your Race Map 2 on my 2013 TE449. I've removed the butterfly flaps in the intake. Running a FMF exhaust. Bike runs great, but hot....will the RM3 help with overheating? Also, can you provide some clarity on what, if anything, needs to be done to the O2 sensor on the header when running RM 2 or 3? On an unrelated note, there is quite a bit of clutch drag on this bike. Are you aware of anything that can be done or is it time for a new clutch? Yes, I've bled the clutch line already. Thanks! Greg

Hello, new owner of TE449 2013 and looking for help to return the ECU mapping to standard. I am trying to tame the bike for trail riding. It currently has Race 2 map showing. I am no expert in ECU matters but was looking for some advcie..

I have purchased what I thought where the correct cable to connect from the 6 pin connector to USB and have managed to download the TubeECU app (had to use old phone with non-updated software). Turns out the 6 pin plug I have bought does not fit plus I am a little confused about the rubber 'bungs' on the 6 pin socket on the bike. Anyway, could someone advise on the idea of returning the bike to 'standard' settings and also take a look at the attached photos. The shunt (bridging wire( shown, is this something to do with Race 2 map? Remove or leave?
Thank you, Dave