• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Race Map II Plug

Dangermouse449 said:
The PCV has no control over the idle speed system.
Removing the second butterfly will help with flame-outs, as the electronics aren't quick enough to react to fast throttle inputs when the throttle is cracked wide open.
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These two statements are not completely correct. The PC5 can adjust the idle circuit electronically, while not often used, there are advanced timer circuits available for automatic choking. The second butterfly removal does not reduce lean conditions, therefor does not prevent flame outs. In some cases, removing the second butterfly will promote a lean condition and increase flame out conditions, especially during the 0 to 2% throttle section. It does however reduce dead throttle issues which are caused by faulty electrical connections to the servo motor. When operating properly, the electronics do operate fast enough for quick snap throttle operation.

If you do choose to remove your secondary butterfly, I suggest you purchase either a JD tuner or a powercommander 5. The JD unit is cheaper, though there is greater functionality through the PC5.
 
Tinken said:
These two statements are not completely correct. The PC5 can adjust the idle circuit electronically, while not often used, there are advanced timer circuits available for automatic choking. The second butterfly removal does not reduce lean conditions, therefor does not prevent flame outs. In some cases, removing the second butterfly will promote a lean condition and increase flame out conditions, especially during the 0 to 2% throttle section. It does however reduce dead throttle issues which are caused by faulty electrical connections to the servo motor. When operating properly, the electronics do operate fast enough for quick snap throttle operation.

If you do choose to remove your secondary butterfly, I suggest you purchase either a JD tuner or a powercommander 5. The JD unit is cheaper, though there is greater functionality through the PC5.
Click to expand...


It's splitting hairs, but I meant as delivered & programmed out of the box, the PCV doesn't look after idle.
Will it actually control a stepper motor? It would be a nice touch if it could, I can only find reference to the spare analogue 0-5v input.

Your butterfly statement is partially correct to.
The butterfly removal does definitely help with flameouts, one cause of which is as you said the lean factory TPS setting & mapping off idle which can be adjusted or masked with a tuner like the PCV or JD.

Another cause is the second butterfly's delay as in the video above going from closed, to open, to closed & then opened wide again in quick succession.
The system sees the big increase in primary TPS voltage reading and delivers fuel for a big throttle opening,
the second butterfly remains at a near-idle setting choking off the air & and a stall is the result.
I can re-create the exact conditions & make it happen with the butterfly in, and it stops with it out.

Yes, they do need extra fuel added (which is mentioned in the original butterfly post) especially if you have an open pipe on the bike.
 
I received my diode from Hall's, and we'll, it doesn't fit the plug on my bike. I double checked and made sure I ordered the correct part, which I did. Did I miss something? Did the "power up" plug change for the '13 -14 bikes?
 
Did you remove the plug cover first? You really don't need it, a simple wire shunt will work.
 
Tinken said:
Did you remove the plug cover first? You really don't need it, a simple wire shunt will work.
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Yes, removed the cap :P I'll take a pic and post it up tnite. I have a wire in it, but I wanted something more permanent, but I guess the wire will be it. It's weird, the part number on my order is correct, but the part is so far off from fitting. Not sure it's even worth shipping back to Hall's, even though the shipping cost 4x the amount of the part -_- Grr
 
Vustadumas said:
Yes, removed the cap :P I'll take a pic and post it up tnite. I have a wire in it, but I wanted something more permanent, but I guess the wire will be it. It's weird, the part number on my order is correct, but the part is so far off from fitting. Not sure it's even worth shipping back to Hall's, even though the shipping cost 4x the amount of the part -_- Grr
Click to expand...

Post up pics like you said. I'd be interested to see whats going on there.
 
Ok, here are some pics of the part. It definitely does not look like the what I see posted online.

Looks like I might have got the wrong part. I think it should be 8000H5440, no?
 

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Vustadumas said:
Ok, here are some pics of the part. It definitely does not look like the what I see posted online.

Looks like I might have got the wrong part. I think it should be 8000H5440, no?
Click to expand...
Wrong plug, that's for an older 450.

Should look like:
ecu.jpg

mapplug.jpg
 
One of my buddy's got a new 511 and the dealer didn't give him plug so I gave him mine. Seriously, as mentioned above you don't need the plug or even to make a wire shunt. Just cut the connector off, wrap the wires together and crimp or solder then insulate. After warranty, there'll never be a reason to run in map 1 mode again.
 
Yep, wrong plug for sure. Oh well. Not worth it to return it, and the wire shunt seems to work just fine, so I'll just leave it be.

Waiting for my PC V to come from ZipTy. Once that's installed, do I even need this still?
 
Vustadumas said:
Yep, wrong plug for sure. Oh well. Not worth it to return it, and the wire shunt seems to work just fine, so I'll just leave it be.

Waiting for my PC V to come from ZipTy. Once that's installed, do I even need this still?
Click to expand...

Yes, you still need to run in Race Map II mode as the ecu runs in 'open loop' fueling instead of 'closed loop' trying to lean out the mixtures.
 
teuchter said:
One of my buddy's got a new 511 and the dealer didn't give him plug so I gave him mine. Seriously, as mentioned above you don't need the plug or even to make a wire shunt. Just cut the connector off, wrap the wires together and crimp or solder then insulate. After warranty, there'll never be a reason to run in map 1 mode again.
Click to expand...

All right, but if want to update EFI map by HST on your bike without removing, then you need open this circuit again and connect lambda sensor one time.
 
Normann said:
All right, but if want to update EFI map by HST on your bike without removing, then you need open this circuit again and connect lambda sensor one time.
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You have to remove the plug, but you don't have to have O2 sensor plugged in. I use a switch on my handlebars. It doubles as a hotstart button.
 
Tinken said:
You have to remove the plug, but you don't have to have O2 sensor plugged in. I use a switch on my handlebars. It doubles as a hotstart button.
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If you switch ECU to "euro3" mode without connected O2/Heater and update ECU software, O2/heater error will not be saved to the ECU? I don't try to update ECU with disconnected O2.
When you start engine in "euro3" without O2, error will remain in the ECU necessarily, but this error isn't fatal.
 

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