• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rebuilding a1985 cr500... got some questions

adam6402 said:
Do yourself a favor and dump the stock foot pegs. HVA, Husqvarna-parts and a couple other internet retailers specializing in huskies have nice options. You can find HVA foot pegs on eBay or at DCVMX here in the U.S.
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would be nice if someone made replacements for the 87-88 bikes...
 
Do u all think my lights will work tho? I checked today with a multimeter and at idle Im only getting three volts thru the yellow wire and maybe ten with a handfull of throttle. Do u think the rectifier regulator will be output 12v DC consistently enough to charge the battery? Or should i just run the led right fromthe regulator amd skip the battery step. Im afraid it will harm the led when voltage drops so low at idle which is why i decided on a battery.
 
If you ditch the battery set up, then you will be running an AC set up. LED bulbs won't work with AC !

If your lighting coils are working correctly and they have enough power to run the lights you need, then just use a voltage regulator and an AC set up.
The only fly in the ointment is if you need a horn ! AC horns require more power than a DC one. I cannot get my 390WR to run one, and that is supposed to have 35w + of juice.
 
the regulator/rectifier should take care of the dc problem, and the led will need dc power. i think your setup sounds good but i dont know about the battery
 
I know the leds cant use AC. I had two options. Run the regulator/rectifier and battery so the battery makes up for voltage drop to the led and the coil charges the battery. Or run just the regulator/rectifier and have the led dim at idle.
 
Hey guys. So i got some of the stuff i ordered in the mail. The important stuff. Got my switches, the led bar (pleased with the quailty, tested on twelve bolt battery and was nice), the rectifer regulator, and the headlight mounts. The head light mounts wents on easy and then added the led bar. Then i had to mess with my wires because i had them temporarialy ghetto rigged so i could ride it but they werent wrapped in anything so they were swinging everywhere and the gromet on the cover wasnt there so it was really ghetto. But i installed the new groment and im wrapping the wires in electrical tape. Since i havent got the battery yet i proceeded to test with what i had. I ran the two yellow wires on the rectifier/regulator to the yellow wire from the motoplat then the other yellow to frame ground? Is that correct or do i run the secind yellow wire to a different place? Anyways i then connected the red and black dc wires (i assume it had no instructions included) to the led and switch. The bike fired up and i let it warm up to perhaps charge the regulator capacitor a it bit. flick of the switch and high revs, no light. I got a few pics will upload when i get home.20150424_115240.jpg 20150424_115244.jpg
 
when you get the rectifier in series the yellow wire is the power wire for lighting and charging
the regulator is just a dump, as in it dumps over volts
 
I have said it already I know the led needs DC thats why I have he rectifier regulator to turn it from ac to dc. My regulator rectifier has four wires: two yellow and a red and black. I assume ghe two yellow are the alternating current input/output and then the black and red is pos neg dc output. Correct?
 
TahoeHusky said:
I have said it already I know the led needs DC thats why I have he rectifier regulator to turn it from ac to dc. My regulator rectifier has four wires: two yellow and a red and black. I assume ghe two yellow are the alternating current input/output and then the black and red is pos neg dc output. Correct?
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did it come with a wiring diagram??
 
No
2premo said:
did it come with a wiring diagram??
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It did not. Online it said some stuff but was not that clear. I purchased the model suggested above by a user it is the SPI model ot something. Small silver box four wires. No real diagram tho
 
from what i gather online about the spi..
yellow wires get connected to your yellow wires
black goes to chassis ground
red wire is the power wire for your light

hopefully something did not blow in the spi unit hooked up the way it was
 
This is what does not make sense. The spi has two yellows and I only have one yellow from the motoplat. So what is the orientation of connection
 
i would try just leaving the one yellow disconnected then. im betting the spi unit just is like that in case you have two outputs from stator. remember the led light may be polarity sensitive, so try switching the lights power and ground if it doesnt light
 
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