• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Rebuilding a1985 cr500... got some questions

I never said that. You simply do not have enough output. Should have been the first thing you measured before proceeding. This is why you start at the beginning and work towards your goal.
 
go back to the start, when you check the output of the yellow wire on the mag, connect the test lead ground to the engine not the frame
i run a separate ground, but we'll deal with that later, first find out if you have enough power, test the mag AT THE SOURCE
 
As said before, ive tested the mag. 3 volts at idle and up to 12 when revved. I might just go for a halogen setup.
 
And by the way i did "test before proceding" and when i posted my results, others on the thread said the rectified dc will power the led.
 
Hey all. Just thought Id update. I decided to ditch using the motoplat since it is just too outdated. I am going to run no lights for now. Then later this summer throw a powerdynamo ignition in there and have 100 watts for every light I could ever need. Also pulled my carb to clean it out (floats were making it drip fuel) also checked the intake boot since the exterior was cracked. It had a bad silicone job on it already so I wanted to re-do it. The interior was fine and had no leaks so I just siliconed the exterior real well. I need to seal up my countershaft now and then the bike will be leak free and ready to ride. Cylinder and piston looked great too and so did reeds. Thanks all and will update more later.
 
something to thing about is maybe switching to a 38mm if you have one or can get one from another ss husky. husky themselves did this as it works better overall. i do believe you give up a tad bit of topend, but its not missed at all really and it seems to pick up bottom and mid. easier starting and mileage..
 
also, when you speak of the silicone job, im assuming you still have the one big intake boot that goes directly to the reeds? when you decide to replace this, it is worth going to the upgraded intake manifold that is aluminum and lets you use a simple 2 bolt mikuni intake, which are only 20-30 bucks to replace and are common. just food for thought. they are used on ebay but phil has them as well. there are two styles that look the same, straights are for dual shock and angled for single shock, so be careful if you buy used. heres a pic

$_1.JPG

this one is straight for the dual, the single shock will angle to the right
 
TahoeHusky said:
Its a 40mm
Click to expand...


the purpose of the 40 was pure power, that being said it worked but at a price
tuning was a big issue and more so here at altitude
assuming your avatar you are somewhere near Tahoe the lake or forest
all riding has radical altitude changes and as such the 40mm is trickier to keep the snap and any hopes of not frying
at full song you are pulling a ton of air and obviously fuel to go with it
i have a 1985CR500, had and still have the 40 but the last time it ran the jetting was barely off and cost a piston
riding on the 38 on the XC500 was way smoother it was not explosive at the top of the mid range and was much more behaved as in
"rideable" in the trees on a single track
to change you will need an air boot carb to air filter as well as intake manifold
i highly recommend the aluminum manifold with the Mikuni adapter
 
as premo says, if a switch to 38 is made a new intake is needed. you will simply use the 250/400/430 intake as these all use the 38.
 
justintendo said:
also, when you speak of the silicone job, im assuming you still have the one big intake boot that goes directly to the reeds? when you decide to replace this, it is worth going to the upgraded intake manifold that is aluminum and lets you use a simple 2 bolt mikuni intake, which are only 20-30 bucks to replace and are common. just food for thought. they are used on ebay but phil has them as well. there are two styles that look the same, straights are for dual shock and angled for single shock, so be careful if you buy used. heres a pic

$_1.JPG

this one is straight for the dual, the single shock will angle to the right
Click to expand...
I have searched online the only availible intake for my bike is out of hva factory in england. I recently lost my job so i cannot afford it its almost 200 usd. My intake was still in usable condition the exterior cracks did not penetrate all the way so it did not leak. I just re siliconed it (much better job than it was before) so that way it was stronger
 
2premo said:
the purpose of the 40 was pure power, that being said it worked but at a price
tuning was a big issue and more so here at altitude
assuming your avatar you are somewhere near Tahoe the lake or forest
all riding has radical altitude changes and as such the 40mm is trickier to keep the snap and any hopes of not frying
at full song you are pulling a ton of air and obviously fuel to go with it
i have a 1985CR500, had and still have the 40 but the last time it ran the jetting was barely off and cost a piston
riding on the 38 on the XC500 was way smoother it was not explosive at the top of the mid range and was much more behaved as in
"rideable" in the trees on a single track
to change you will need an air boot carb to air filter as well as intake manifold
i highly recommend the aluminum manifold with the Mikuni adapter
Click to expand...
Yes i ride at tahoes woods. I bought the bike from reno. The dude said he has rode it in reno and rode it in montana at 12000ft at the same day and it ran fine. It runs very strong up here. The thing that really made a difference was the ignition timing. I plan to go to around 3700-4200 ft this weekend to ride, do u think i should richen up a bit?
 
Also to add onto the jetting. I run castor 927 32-1 even though the guy I got it from said he ran 40-1. I use 32-1 in all my bikes. It runs super strong. Never boggy when its warm. I can run it super high altitude (rich) and protect my motor but it wont even feel rich since its so strong. when i pulled my reeds and carb i looked in and gave a check to top end and it looked goooood. Piston was all uniformed color and texture, no scores and looked like a mahle. It was rebuilt in 96 (bored to 4th over I believe 510cc?) to my understanding from the craigslist guy. And has hardly been ridden since So it has decent internal compononets.
 
TahoeHusky said:
Yes i ride at tahoes woods. I bought the bike from reno. The dude said he has rode it in reno and rode it in montana at 12000ft at the same day and it ran fine. It runs very strong up here. The thing that really made a difference was the ignition timing. I plan to go to around 3700-4200 ft this weekend to ride, do u think i should richen up a bit?
Click to expand...


if it's jetted for 6500 i would consider it
i keep mine jetted for about 5000' and it gives me flexibility, not sure where he found terrain he was allowed on at 12,000' but that elevation would require a jetting change
most of my riding is between 4000' as a low area to 8500' and sometimes 9000'
jetting for 5000' was chosen as a number where i might find myself in the upper rpm's
the 38mm is easier to altitude tune if that helps not as aggressive on top but WAY better in the middle where most of riding in the trees happens
if you are riding that thing in the trees keep your rpm way low and it takes way less energy to flick it around, less gyro mass, and that is a big engine
 
TahoeHusky said:
Also to add onto the jetting. I run castor 927 32-1 even though the guy I got it from said he ran 40-1. I use 32-1 in all my bikes. It runs super strong. Never boggy when its warm. I can run it super high altitude (rich) and protect my motor but it wont even feel rich since its so strong. when i pulled my reeds and carb i looked in and gave a check to top end and it looked goooood. Piston was all uniformed color and texture, no scores and looked like a mahle. It was rebuilt in 96 (bored to 4th over I believe 510cc?) to my understanding from the craigslist guy. And has hardly been ridden since So it has decent internal compononets.
Click to expand...


technically a #4 piston is 3rd over
1 is stock bore
if that's the case and you encounter any bore damage you will need a sleeve or a new cylinder
i did see it on craigslist when it was listed, seems like a clean 85, but the guy seemed a little out there in his text
does it have the zip tie or slip in shock protector, 85's were zip tie stock but most were converted
 
2premo said:
if it's jetted for 6500 i would consider it
i keep mine jetted for about 5000' and it gives me flexibility, not sure where he found terrain he was allowed on at 12,000' but that elevation would require a jetting change
most of my riding is between 4000' as a low area to 8500' and sometimes 9000'
jetting for 5000' was chosen as a number where i might find myself in the upper rpm's
the 38mm is easier to altitude tune if that helps not as aggressive on top but WAY better in the middle where most of riding in the trees happens
if you are riding that thing in the trees keep your rpm way low and it takes way less energy to flick it around, less gyro mass, and that is a big engine
Click to expand...
I geared it way taller and that toned it down. It used to have 13-53 and it wheelied bad now at 14-48 it pulls hard and gears are long as hell but still chugs up anything in first
 
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