• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Removing - Reinstalling Kick Start Shaft & Spring - '75 Cross Country 175cc

Binx

Binx

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm in year 5 of my '75 Cross Country restoration.

I'm cleaning up the transmission cover in order to repaint it. To make the clean-up and repaint easier I want to remove the kick start shaft and the driving wheel spring assembly. But before I do that I want to know how to reestablish the spring tension, when reassembling, so that the kick start lever will return to its resting place tight against the case.

Is this difficult to do? Is there a trick I should know? Nobody wants a floppy lever.

You're right to guess that I have limited vintage Husky experience and limited mechanical aptitude. 20211012_115640.jpg

Thanks. Binx
 
I do this with great results.

If the case is off such as shown in the pic,
  • I put the ratchet gear on the kicker shaft so it lays against the stop that is adjacent to the ratchet disc, which is seen in the pic.
  • Then push the lever until the teeth on the ratchet gear begin to touch the teeth on the ratchet disc. At this point the gear will make a clicking noise while being spun.
  • This is where the engagement begins and where I mount the lever about 1/2 inch from the rubber stop.
If the case is on the motor,
  • Slowly move the kick lever down while spinning the sprocket (in neutral). This causes the ratchet gear to turn.
  • When you hear a clicking noise inside the case you'll know the ratchet gear and ratchet disc have begun to touch.
  • Ideally this is the point that you want the lever to be 1/2 inch from the rubber stop.
I've found that this will provide the maximum lever throw to get a good motor spin when kicked over. Probably not as big a deal with a 175 as with the 400, 450.
 
Crashaholic - many thanks for your reply. Had to read your instructions a couple of times but think I've got it. Am proceeding with my 175 rebuild / restoration with almost no experience. Too bad I don't live in Antelope Valley, CA, like maybe 1 block away from your house, so I could run over for help every time I had a question. ; ) Thanks again.
 
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