• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Replacement oil drain plug?

A

apobateman

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all, does anyone know what oil drain plugs will fit the Terra? I went to change the oil on mine today and the 24mm nut is rounded off so I will need to get a new one - I am assuming that my local Husky dealer should have one but if not, which BMW equivalent will fit?

Also, has anyone used the Irwin 24mm 15/16 bolt extractor with success to remove the rounded plug, or can recommend an alternative (for Australians...I am also considering the Toolpro bolt extraction set from supercheap autos which includes a 24mm socket)

Thanks and happy new year!
 
It's certainly a bit of a job to round off a 24 hex...often using a 6-point socket does the trick, as it's got far more bite than a multipoint (most high-impact sockets are 6-pointers, even cheap ones).
I'd try that first.
The BMW one would be the most likely fit...or take the old one to SuperCheap Auto, measure thread diameter and pitch as well as "seat" width (the width of the actual sealing surface) More than likely they'll have something to suit the specs.
 
Yes, easily done. The problem is the sump plug head is alloy and to shallow.
I got mine out by laying the bike over and grinding, squaring off the bolt head and then using a large vise-grips. (Go slow, a bit of heat is good)
Try this first, before drilling because the bolt is thin.

To prevent this from occurring again grind the taper off a 6 point socket
IMG_6778.JPG
 
The drain plug is the same as the 650GS, BMW part No 11 13 7 700 094, they are known to be problematic unless a 6 point socket is used, there is an alternative with hex key which 650GS owners use, it is BMW part No 11 13 7 708 604 Screw Plug, Magnetic - M24x2, it is used on the BMW G Series twins
 
PaulC said:
Yes, easily done. The problem is the sump plug head is alloy and to shallow.
I got mine out by laying the bike over and grinding, squaring off the bolt head and then using a large vise-grips. (Go slow, a bit of heat is good)
Try this first, before drilling because the bolt is thin.

To prevent this from occurring again grind the taper off a 6 point socket
View attachment 75146
Click to expand...


I've never had any problem using a 12point 24mm socket, but the 6 point socket with the taper ground off sure looks like a good idea :)
 
Thanks for this useful info.

I'm kitting up for my first oil change and notice there are two bolts under there - which one needs to come out? The one with the level face?
 
the other bolt connects the oil line to the engine, don't touch that one.
Don't bother trying to get the plug out of the drain thingie in the rubber oil line above the engine. Just losen the right hose clamp and pull the line off and drain the oil into a funnel.
Might be a good idea to take out the oil screen on the left side of the frame just below the head tube and clean it if the bike has more than say 10k km on it and it hasn't been cleaned before.
 
CarstenB said:
Don't bother trying to get the plug out of the drain thingie in the rubber oil line above the engine. Just losen the right hose clamp and pull the line off and drain the oil into a funnel.
Click to expand...


You might also consider a modification to the frame drain plug when you drop the oil, have a look at:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oil-change-drama.30550/page-6#post-396852 in particular post 113, this works well for me and I change my oil every 5000 kilometers.

The fittings are: M10 to 9/16 JLC adaptor, 10mm Dowty seal washer for the adaptor to original fitting, hose end fittings are two female 9/16 JLC to 1/4 Push Lock fittings, 9/16 JLC blanking plug and a length of 1/4 Push Lock hyd hose.

JLC fittings are metal to metal sealing type fittings that have a 37 degree flare (sealing surface angle) and straight United National Fine straight threads (UNF)

Push Lock hoses work with the applicable fitting to make up hose assemblies without crimping/swaging.
 
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