• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

restoring a Up-Tite 87 250 XC...

let us know what you do for a piston...
im not aware of aftermarket pistons for the 87-88 250.

I will.
If I can use the same size piston, I have a NOS piston that size.
If I need to go 2nd over, then I'll have to find one or re-line the cylinder so I can use what's available.

Wonder if Nikasil coating is worth it for increasing cylinder life?
 
my 79 wr250 also had signs of someone not knowing what a flywheel puller was..the crank was an extra few thou out of spec from beating on the flywheel...wasnt hard to fix on the truing stands but something to look for. makes a difference in engine vibes
 
I will.
If I can use the same size piston, I have a NOS piston that size.
If I need to go 2nd over, then I'll have to find one or re-line the cylinder so I can use what's available.

Wonder if Nikasil coating is worth it for increasing cylinder life?

hard to say if nikasil is worth it, the oe setup is good for several hundred hours if fed clean air...the piston selection is a bit dim but otherwise i really like the 250 "stroker"...kinda runs like a mini 400/430...very similar powerband delivery. the earlier 250s had minimal bottom and varying levels of midrange with great top. i would be really interested to see the differences the george earl portwork made.
 
hard to say if nikasil is worth it, the oe setup is good for several hundred hours if fed clean air...the piston selection is a bit dim but otherwise i really like the 250 "stroker"...kinda runs like a mini 400/430...very similar powerband delivery. the earlier 250s had minimal bottom and varying levels of midrange with great top. i would be really interested to see the differences the george earl portwork made.

Good point on clean air, i.e., keep that air filter clean!

Nice to hear the '87+ 250s are more like a 400/430, which I love.
Since I ride mostly 430's and have never ridden a 87 250, the bottom and mid performance will be interesting. I hope its not too weak.

When I asked George about his philosophy and what he was looking to achieve, he said since he rides a lot in Baja in wildly varying conditions and weather, "There is a lot involved, but what I try to do is get a smoother power delivery, while letting the motor breathe easier, and this has always worked out to get more HP and better torque, this also makes for easier jetting."

This 87 250 did not have a Up-Tite pipe, which I think it needs to take full advantage of the porting. I asked George if he will make any more 250 pipes and he said he's working on 430 pipes first.

It might also be worth trying a Lectron too. I have a 38mm.
 
It has been converted from a power valve version to the more reliable no-power valve 88 cylinder. We have those ignitions and the NOS pistons in stock...

Andy.
 
It has been converted from a power valve version to the more reliable no-power valve 88 cylinder. We have those ignitions and the NOS pistons in stock...
Andy.

Andy, thanks. Is the 88 cylinder different than the 87?
BTW, the case has no serial number stamped.
 
It has been converted from a power valve version to the more reliable no-power valve 88 cylinder. We have those ignitions and the NOS pistons in stock...

Andy.
converted? mines an xc and never had a powervalve..but the powervalve pistons will work fine?
 
Good point on clean air, i.e., keep that air filter clean!

Nice to hear the '87+ 250s are more like a 400/430, which I love.
Since I ride mostly 430's and have never ridden a 87 250, the bottom and mid performance will be interesting. I hope its not too weak.

When I asked George about his philosophy and what he was looking to achieve, he said since he rides a lot in Baja in wildly varying conditions and weather, "There is a lot involved, but what I try to do is get a smoother power delivery, while letting the motor breathe easier, and this has always worked out to get more HP and better torque, this also makes for easier jetting."

This 87 250 did not have a Up-Tite pipe, which I think it needs to take full advantage of the porting. I asked George if he will make any more 250 pipes and he said he's working on 430 pipes first.

It might also be worth trying a Lectron too. I have a 38mm.

no doubt it will feel a bit weak compared to the big bore..but also less tiring. oddly, my 88 is the only husky ive owned that runs great very close to book spec jetting. as you know the 430 specs are waaaay off.
 
Hey Everfree, I see you are in Portland...is this one of yours?.....the 400 LC I have posted in the Vintage for sale list
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/husqvarna-vintage-for-sale-in-the-world.34230/page-171
and if not, why not, hahaha....and there is an extra motor or roller available too..
I am following your resto, good job, keep at it.

Thanks, Bodger. The 400 is not mine, though I saw the ad and considered buying it.
I've decided to stay focused on the 86, 87 and 88 year models or I'll have too many bikes and too many projects!
My wife thinks I have too many bikes (like 7 bikes can be too many!) and I'm working out of a single car, tuck-under garage where space is tight. I managed to sneak in this 87 250 only because I disassembled it before my wife noticed! Ask for forgiveness later right?
 
more pics...

Clutch side cover off... that large gear at the kick shaft is a new one and hard to find.
That's a bonus. Some past owner did some work on it.

IMG_1582.JPG

ready to pull the magneto top, thankfully the puller threaded on enough to hold. Somebody beat on it good.
IMG_1585.JPG

This is probably why the PO couldn't start it... corroded and rusted magneto. Hard to generate any current with this.
Leave a bike out in the Oregon coast weather and this what you get.
Thankfully, the motor was never froze up.
IMG_1586.JPG

Other side of case... found a broke off bolt on the wide crank support washer. See lower bolt.
The bolt was probably over-tightened, as we found the 3 other existing bolts stretched and didn't want to come out. New bolts went in easy.
IMG_1589.JPG
 
Got word back from the machine shop.

They measured the cylinder and piston for wear and roundness.
Cylinder is fine but piston skirt was worn. With a quick hone on the cylinder we should be able to use the same size piston - 66.69 1st over.
I have a pretty NOS one available.
The rod is fine, but replaced the rod bearing.

Next up, cleaning the cases and replacing all the bearings.

Does anyone know of a solvent that will remove powder coat? I need to clean the cases.
Thanks.
 
painful....
i have faith you will treat her right though.
i have had good luck repairing the broken crank end by grinding down a flat spot, drill/tap for a bolt. once the flywheel is seated to the correct torque it will stay seated. i stay away from standard on my hoosks but a 1/4" bolt serves well and lasted for a good while in my friends bike. of course a new crank stub would be ideal.
 
painful....
i have faith you will treat her right though.
i have had good luck repairing the broken crank end by grinding down a flat spot, drill/tap for a bolt. once the flywheel is seated to the correct torque it will stay seated. i stay away from standard on my hoosks but a 1/4" bolt serves well and lasted for a good while in my friends bike. of course a new crank stub would be ideal.

Inspecting the gears now... for wear. I expect to be replacing a few. And the clutch too.
I'd like to get her back to race ready.
I have a new crank stub. We'll just press it in. Hopefully I'll get the crank assembly back next week. Hope to be getting the motor together next week.
In the meantime, I have plenty of work to do on the other parts.
 
Next up, cleaning the cases and replacing all the bearings.

Does anyone know of a solvent that will remove powder coat? I need to clean the cases.
Thanks.
I found this out totally by accident. I wanted to remove some boot scuff marks from the engine side covers of my 1979 Honda CR250. The Marty Smith autograph model with the red powder coated engine from Honda. I squirted some Berryman's B-12 on the side cover and started to rub the scuff marks with a rag and sure enough the scuff marks came off... as well as some red powder coating!!!

You might want to try some Berryman's on your cases and see if Swedish powder coat is tougher than Japanese powder coat.
 
... I squirted some Berryman's B-12 on the side cover and started to rub the scuff marks with a rag and sure enough the scuff marks came off... as well as some red powder coating!!! You might want to try some Berryman's on your cases and see if Swedish powder coat is tougher than Japanese powder coat.

Went to the Berryman's web site. Looks like the serious solvent stuff. I'm looking for it. Thanks.
 
I was told when I did my motor the the cases were really hard to strip....so I didn't. I just used scotch brites & light sanding in rough spots. Here is what I did to mine: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/l-c-430-right-crank-bearing.27095/page-2

oldbikedude, I think you're right. Stripping might be too much trouble.
Looking at your finished motor in your thread, it looks great. I forgot about your thread, although its been a couple of years ago.
Like the video, the 430 sounds good!
 
Thanks...I was just telling my son that I still can't believe my 430 started 1st kick after all I did to it. He reminded me we had it on video (albeit a poor video). Only fitting you got to see it today. The paint is not as durable but it still looks great.
 
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