• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

restoring a Up-Tite 87 250 XC...

I get it from Autozone and have seen it at Harbor Freight stores as well. You can soak small parts in a container and I have sprayed it onto sheet metal with a refillable plastic spraybottle.
 
It's been awhile, so here's an update...
- Ohlins shock was sent out, it has been rebuilt and recharged. The adjust dial on the piggy back reservior was toast, waiting on parts from Ohlins USA.
- radiators have been pressure tested, broken off brackets welded back on, and painted. Now they're mounted back on the frame
- both wheel hubs have been cleaned and painted, new SKF wheel bearings installed
- new Buchanan SS spokes + nipples for both wheels arrived last week, nice looking spokes!
- front rim, which was in pretty good condition, I just re-laced to hub with the new spokes

However, the rear rim has issues. See below.
Even though the rim is aluminum, this is what happens to a rim when you leave a bike out in the wet weather for a long time. The metal is flaking at the top layer. Thankfully these rims are thick.

IMG_1810.JPGIMG_1811.JPG
 
I may regret this later, but I went ahead and re-laced the rear wheel. I still have to tighten spokes and true it.

As you can see, the rear rim looks good on the spoke side, you would never know the tire side is a corroded mess.

IMG_1812.JPG
This is the first time I have re-laced a rear wheel. What a pain! After some research and YouTube videos on how to lace a wheel, I still got it wrong 5-6 times before I got the technique right. There definitely is a technique to this type of Husky wheel. I should do a post on it.
 
everfree said:
I may regret this later, but I went ahead and re-laced the rear wheel. I still have to tighten spokes and true it.

As you can see, the rear rim looks good on the spoke side, you would never know the tire side is a corroded mess.

View attachment 67851
This is the first time I have re-laced a rear wheel. What a pain! After some research and YouTube videos on how to lace a wheel, I still got it wrong 5-6 times before I got the technique right. There definitely is a technique to this type of Husky wheel. I should do a post on it.
Click to expand...
corroded mess???? looks fine to me...hhhahahahaa...
start a new thread with pics! would be a great resource for here, respoking a swede.
were the buchanan spokes a direct fit?
 
justintendo said:
corroded mess???? looks fine to me...hhhahahahaa...
start a new thread with pics! would be a great resource for here, respoking a swede.
were the buchanan spokes a direct fit?
Click to expand...


I was disappointed to see how bad it was, seeing how the inside of the rim looked so nice. I should have known something was up after I found all the spoke nipples rusted solid. At least 1/2 the spoke holes have sign of cracks or flaking.

No, the Buchanan spokes were a special order. They don't have template spokes for the late model Swedes. Only some conical hub Swedes. I sent in samples of both front and rear spokes. It took about a week to get them back. I had Buchanans save my work order so they can remake more when I need them.

Darrel78 has a spare rim for me, so when I re-lace again I'll take more pictures and post them.
 
the rims do look odd, as the corrosion is fairly deep! i run some wheels with more corrosion for sure, but its all very shallow.
one thing i have not attempted is spoking..
 
justintendo said:
one thing i have not attempted is spoking..
Click to expand...

Ha, spoking is not really fun. More like a challenge of concentration. Thankfully, I had my 88 430 to study as an example.
I had so many failed attempts, but I got further every time. The best advice I found was here on CafeHusky.
 
Does anyone know what kind of seal the part #10 is? This 87 250 didn't have one.

Is it a metal washer / cap over the bearing? Does it press into the hub like the bearing or is snugged tight when the wheel is mounted in swing arm and axle bolt tightened?

None of my Huskys has it and I've never seen one.

rear hub parts schematic.jpg
 
I answered my own question... found one on the HVA Factory site... a double lip seal.

Ahhh... now I know why the rear hub's left side wheel bearing has to be pressed in deeper than right side... so this seal can press in.
They must not last long... as I said, never seen one.

Wheel oil seal.jpg
 
everfree said:
I answered my own question... found one on the HVA Factory site... a double lip seal.

Ahhh... now I know why the rear hub's left side wheel bearing has to be pressed in deeper than right side... so this seal can press in.
They must not last long... as I said, never seen one.

View attachment 67906
Click to expand...
they last a long time, for me anyway..they hold the axle spacer on the wheel.
 
Lacing a wheel is not hard physically its just a dam brain teaser. It took me 7 try's for the front and I pulled off the rear wheel the first try. Just remember if you ever powder coat a hub you need to make sure the head of the spoke properly seats down all the way. you can use a counter sinker in a cordless drill very carefully to remove the paint where the head seats down into the hub. If you powder coat a rim make sure that you tape the rim with masking tape as you lace it up to prevent scratching .
 
84scrambler said:
Lacing a wheel is not hard physically its just a dam brain teaser. It took me 7 try's for the front and I pulled off the rear wheel the first try. Just remember if you ever powder coat a hub you need to make sure the head of the spoke properly seats down all the way. you can use a counter sinker in a cordless drill very carefully to remove the paint where the head seats down into the hub. If you powder coat a rim make sure that you tape the rim with masking tape as you lace it up to prevent scratching .
Click to expand...

That's pretty good getting the rear wheel laced the first time, the rear wheel is definitely different and harder to lace correctly.
I can understand why powder coated hubs would cause problems. Good suggestion.
 
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