• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rock vs. clutch cover

I see what you mean in these pictures, the angle made an optical illusion.

I like the black look. I may have to consider that for the future, as my bike gets dirtier.
 
I've use JB Weld for lots of temp repairs... remembering it is a temp repair. That said the thermal expansion coefficient of JB compared to aluminium is close but not the same. Nine times out of ten that is why it fails and begins to leak. The colder your bike is the more likely the epoxy will fail after reaching operating temperature.(greater expansion) If the parts would not cool and heat up the epoxy would last a long long time.
Nothing beats welding aluminium with aluminium... period... except a brand new OEM cover.:thumbsup:
 
Toyboy said:
I would lose the stock shifter asap. You wouldn't want to go down again and have it bend or worse, sheer the shifter shaft. Not that uncommon and the biggest advantage of a folding shifter.
Click to expand...


I actually like steel shifters like that as the will fold and can be bent back. A strong aluminum one will more stress on the shaft and not be able to be bent back.
 
Glengemen said:
Well, it's all back together. New oil and filter with all the original parts back on. JB weld to the rescue! It will take a few more degreaser and pressure washer sessions to get it 100% oil free again as I lost 1/2 a quart or so all down the left side of the bike and on my boot. There will be an extension on the bash plate in my future. The shifter is bent to where i think it should be. A little semigloss paint hides the JB weld pretty good :-)
View attachment 33366
Click to expand...

Nice job on the cover. Did you go back and lighly sand the tops of the logo and letters?
 
Motosportz said:
I actually like steel shifters like that as the will fold and can be bent back. A strong aluminum one will more stress on the shaft and not be able to be bent back.
Click to expand...

Really? Not sure about that. I would have thought differently. I know you are right on the alloy MSR ones. They will bend once and snap if you try to straiten. The BMW alloy ones can take a good amount of tweaking. I think I actually have a steel folding one I grabbed as a spare that someone mentioned somewhere in a thread. Might have to look into switching and keeping alloy one as a spare.
 
I was looking at the touratek one and I'm not sure if that's the way to go. The adjustable lenth is nice, and mine really need to get out there more, but the fastening hardware and overlap edges give me the heebie jeebies after this. Probably cut and section in a piece on the stocker. I'll look for a folding end to go on it.
 
kjackbrown said:
Nice job on the cover. Did you go back and lighly sand the tops of the logo and letters?
Click to expand...
No, that would be a die grinder with an 80 grit disk on it. Turns it into a one minute job. I will more than likely do the same thing on my new cover whenever it happens to stumble to my front door.
 
Not sure where you live but be careful with uncoated aluminum exposed to environments with high salt (near coast, salted winter roads in the mountains. etc.) as even it corrodes rather quickly. Might be a good idea to follow the grinding session with a good couple coates of clear (now comes in gloss, satin, flat, etc.).

I'm digging the look and might have to do it myself :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top