• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Roller chain tensioner

M

Middle1956

Husqvarna
C Class
I have a 2009 TE 250 and would like to put a roller chain tensioner on it. Has anyone done this on a TE before? I've looked on line but don't see anything I like. I would like a bolt on assembly but will build something if I have to.

Thanks, Russ
 
You mean a roller chain guide? To replace the stock slider unit in front of the rear sprocket? These roller guides are sometimes called MX style guides.

The one I have on my '06 TE450 uses the same ball bearing rollers as the upper and lower rollers near the swing arm pivot. It mounts using one of the bolt holes that the stock uses (tabs on the bottom of the swing arm).

It works fine, but I have had to replace the bearings, and straighten it out after some rock bashing. In the future I will replace it with a BRP all-plastic one, in theory it will always return to normal position and not get as bent up as aluminum framed guides do.
 
A lower roller chain tensioner instead of the chain guide is what I'm talking about.
I find many rollers but not many rollers with all the hardware and spring needed to bolt on. If I have to I can make one from scratch but would rather find a kit.

Here is the best I've been able to find.
http://hva-factory.com/chain-tensioner-p-174.html

I guess I was looking for something better than this. You have a pic of you roller chain tensioner? Maybe a few links to some you've found.

Thanks for the help, Russ
 
I don't think that part you refer to is meant to replace the chain guide- I think that's a different kind of system in place of one of your chain rollers- there are 2 on your bike one behind the foot peg a little lower and one near your foot peg a little higher.

This chain tensioner you refer to does not look like something you will commonly find on any current models. I have never seen anyone attempt to add that.

Is it possible you have that part confused with something like this:
HVA-08-chainguide-001.jpg

to replace this type?:
14-50-116.jpg


If you want that type of chain guide you can purchase it from MOTOSPORTZ (curently out of stock) but those type also came on 2008 TE's and SM's if you want to go OEM. They are not spring loaded and don't really "tension the chain" as you would think. What are you trying to accomplish?
 
I find that there is to fine a line between having my chain to tight and to loose. If not adjusted just right it will slap running down the road. I thought if I had a spring loaded roller it would hold some tension on the chain. Maybe I'll run it without a chain guide and see if the chain acts differently. If it does then I could go with a aftermarket guide.

I did see the plastic guide from Motorsport and like it.

Thanks, Russ
 
I personally run a T.M. Designs Chain Guide... The stock one worked great while it lasted: it got bent a little and began wearing through the rubber/plastic block. The 2008 style seem to be prone to damage- I have seen them get destroyed... I don't think they are intended for rocks and logs. So I agree with you Budweiserfroggie- just trying to figure out what Middle1956 is trying to accomplish...

Middle1956;130043 said:
I find that there is to fine a line between having my chain to tight and to loose. If not adjusted just right it will slap running down the road. I thought if I had a spring loaded roller it would hold some tension on the chain. Maybe I'll run it without a chain guide and see if the chain acts differently. If it does then I could go with a aftermarket guide.

I did see the plastic guide from Motorsport and like it.

Thanks, Russ
Click to expand...

Middle1956: just adjust your chain per manual- and ignore any chain slap-It has to be loose enough otherwise it will tension while squatting and limit travel and put stress on you counter shaft and seal. I would leave the stock chain guide on till it wears out and then replace with a BRP or TM Designs or buy the stock chain block to maintain the one you have- DO NOT TAKE it OFF it serves a purpose- "Chain guide" is not just a snappy name it has a purpose- you don't want to loose your chain at 70 miles per hour.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'll put the stock chain guide back on and forget about the chain slap. I only here it running down the road and I don't do that much. I'll still keep an eye out for an aftermarket chain guide.

Thanks, Russ
 
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