• Hi everyone,

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Round two of the "other" carb types - Lectron

You could always run it out of fuel !! Personaly I dont think you will have a problem if you leave fuel in there as there is no jets to get clogged as per a normal carb.
 
I hear ya because my wr is stored 200 miles away.(House remodel-full garage) Rides are a bout once a month unfortunately. I try to empty the bowl by running it dry. I've noticed the lectron seems to get a vacuum lock or something when trying to start it with the gas spigot closed. It will just refuse to start and then starts the ugly kick starter kick back. The lectron seems to have trouble when you close the gas spigot. I was starting the bike then closing the spigot, but I had trouble burning off all of the gas. It would die before all of the gas would burn off.
I'll usually take off the tank and drain it since its a super easy to do. Then I turn the gas on and then start it up and run off what's left of the float bowl. Took awhile to get this routine but seems to work good. I hate leaving the ethanol in my bike if I don't have to.

No problem with the Lectron, but I aint gonna remove the whole bowl to drain it. I thought about the optional metal bowl but really kind of dig the clear see thru bowl.
 
If I could reach the power jet hose, I would just pop it off and drain the bowl.

I already found out that the foam filter doesn't like sitting in stale gas for several months.
 
Not sure about your fuel there (heard storage horror stories). But here I just fill up the tank & put in gas stabilizer. Run the engine until I'm sure stabilized gas is going through the carb & that's it. Come spring time (4 to 6 months later) it always starts right up. No issues by having stabilized gas in the bowl.
 
Ruffus said:
Not sure about your fuel there (heard storage horror stories). But here I just fill up the tank & put in gas stabilizer. Run the engine until I'm sure stabilized gas is going through the carb & that's it. Come spring time (4 to 6 months later) it always starts right up. No issues by having stabilized gas in the bowl.
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IMHO this is the best method.
 
Motosportz said:
thats great info because i am taking my 165 and 50-2500' jetting to 4000-8500' Jetting in Idaho next weekend.

BTW tried the new MS-3 custom rod and shorter PJ tube and :eek:. PERFECT. Super smooth power and runs perfect everywhere. Seemless, crisp and never even looked at the carb all day. Starts better, idles forever at a nice smooth idle. Love it.
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Is this rod also usable with euro fuel?
Do you have Euro customers feedback on this ?
thanks,
David
 
My 300 is a screaming banshee with the carb now. Only quirky thing is when I first start bike it does this blub blub blub then quits. Maybe does that 2-3 times until its warmed up. Then its absolutely perfect. The bike runs so amazing now I suppose I could fool with idle but I don't dare even want to touch it because once its warmed its just a totally different bike.
 
firecrotch said:
My 300 is a screaming banshee with the carb now. Only quirky thing is when I first start bike it does this blub blub blub then quits. Maybe does that 2-3 times until its warmed up. Then its absolutely perfect. The bike runs so amazing now I suppose I could fool with idle but I don't dare even want to touch it because once its warmed its just a totally different bike.
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I'm stoked you like how it runs but you should be able to dial in the starting. When you get time try going 1/2 leaner on the rod. If thats not good go the other way. You are right near the sweet spot you just need to tweak it some.
 
I rode a buddys KTM 300 with one. I could not believe the before and after diff between it and oem .
Almost made me want a 300 smoker. Smoooth electric power bottom to top.
 
Russ Henry said:
I rode a buddys KTM 300 with one. I could not believe the before and after diff between it and oem .
Almost made me want a 300 smoker. Smoooth electric power bottom to top.
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Yep, thats how I got my 02 CR250 running with one now. Perfect woods motor.

You need a 300 smoker Russ.
 
um stupid question but how do you adjust metering rod? manual says just turn it but you gotta push it in first to turn then it feels like its just spinning. I know flat side gotta face forward but I cant seem to get any noticeable difference when physically measuring it. someone help me out please
 
You just turn the rod without pushing it , Then you push it in to spin it so the flat part faces the correct way, easy peasy:thumbsup:

You may need to use a set of pliers or suitable tool ( put a piece of paper over the rod first) I personaly have no problems doing it with my vise like fingers :lol:
 
thanx johnnyboy that's what manual said but felt very tight so didn't wanna break anything-will try some pliers, youre a legend mate
 
Yes, turn the rod in 1/4 turn increments (in / clockwise for richer) and then push it up and reindex it so the flat side of the rod is facing the motor. These come setup well but every bike is different and some fine tuning will get the most out of it.
 
question for you guys... i've been tuning the PJ on my 165, when you go richer on the PJ do you generally need to go a hair leaner on the rod? it feels like they overlap (mid / top) quite a bit on my bike but not sure if that is normal?

EDIT: had my first stuck float with this carb last weekend. nice to be able to smack the clear bowl and see gas flow again but seems kinda premature to be sticking. i run 100% or 50/50 race gas.
 
typeone said:
question for you guys... i've been tuning the PJ on my 165, when you go richer on the PJ do you generally need to go a hair leaner on the rod? it feels like they overlap (mid / top) quite a bit on my bike but not sure if that is normal?

EDIT: had my first stuck float with this carb last weekend. nice to be able to smack the clear bowl and see gas flow again but seems kinda premature to be sticking. i run 100% or 50/50 race gas.
Click to expand...


Yes, there is some overlap. You can control where they overlap by making the PJ tube longer or shorter. The shorter tube makes the PJ happen later / more opening. My newer MS3 build of the Lectron addresses this and uses a shorter PJ tube (in the carb throat). these are very inexpensive and EZ to change out if you wish to play with when the PJ comes into play.

I have never had a Lectron float stick. :excuseme: Chunk of dirt maybe? Do you run a fuel filter?
 
Motosportz said:
Yes, there is some overlap. You can control where they overlap by making the PJ tube longer or shorter. The shorter tube makes the PJ happen later / more opening. My newer MS3 build of the Lectron addresses this and uses a shorter PJ tube (in the carb throat). these are very inexpensive and EZ to change out if you wish to play with when the PJ comes into play.

I have never had a Lectron float stick. :excuseme: Chunk of dirt maybe? Do you run a fuel filter?
Click to expand...


thanks, yes, previously i had trimmed the tube a bit then moved to the shorter tube + MS-3 rod kit from you. definite improvement but i'm still ~2 turns or so out on the PJ. it's weird, seems to want more PJ the hotter the motor gets but then my mid gets a little too fat feeling. last weekend i leaned out the rod by maybe 1/4 and richened the PJ by 1/4. Sundays ride will be the next test but i'm planning to go another 1/8th out on the PJ and leave the rod.

i had a feeling the stuck float was an oddity, cant remember reading about a single case on CH here. i'll strip it down and clean it. maybe a spec of dirt but yes, i do run a fuel filter.
 
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