• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Round two of the "other" carb types - Lectron

It would be good to know for sure. Its a lot easier to change the reed side in this case. I was thinking of maybe buying a rad valve from a Honda cause its made from aluminum and can be milled down for a perfect fit.
I've heard that the Honda is not raised up as much as the Husky which would cause more problems. This could be an opportunity for someone to make a casting or a billet manifold that would be custom for the Lectron fit. It would fit a lot of years if they did. (where's Wally?)
 
This could be an opportunity for someone to make a casting or a billet manifold that would be custom for the Lectron fit. It would fit a lot of years if they did. (where's Wally?)

If i were not swamped with 10 other projects right now i would be all over this.
 
09 wr 250 36mm lectron milled 3/8 off front (engine side) gave more clearance for rear spring -air boot 1/2 turn leaner runs perfect
 
Got to ride mine (09WR300) this weekend. Had it leaned out 1 turn, did 1 slow kick thru to get TDC & dang if it didn't start on the first kick**************************************** & it was about 36F this morning. It NEVER started on the 1st kick b4. And I'm not sure if I had the choke on. Let her warm up a bit then rode around a little & WOW this thing just pulls & pulls. Where b4 I had to b careful with the clutch when getting moving, I'm sure bcuz my jetting wasn't perfect, now it will just pull away without even thinkin about stalling. I will still be playing with it to get it spot on but for now I must agree with everyone so far that a Lectron is the REAL DEAL. I had no problem with the installation & it only takes a few minutes to pull the seat & tank to make adjustments. My only concern was the airbox boot slipped on pretty easily but doesn't seem to be a problem after tightening the clamp. Thanks again to Kelly & Vinduro for helping us to see the light......
 
Somewhere back there I think I read that 08 and older had a shorter air box. So far I'm OK with my 09 but it is pretty close to the shock.
I just checked the part numbers for the air boot which Husqvarna calls a "union" for 2008 and 2009. Both years share the same parts number:8000-86888. So I'm thinking the 2008 reed intake is shorter, which would make the Lectron fit even better.Also you don't hear about 2008 intake manifolds cracking like the 2009 and up so maybe its better piece.
 
I know this is a few days old but thats my feelings. I don't feel the need for the auto clutch with the lectron in play.

Dave
Hey WVDAG, noticed you have an older wr, how did the Lectron fit between the boots? Did everything fit good?
 
Hey WVDAG, noticed you have an older wr, how did the Lectron fit between the boots? Did everything fit good?

No issues, I unbolted the sub frame and swung it up to help ease installation but I would do that for the PWK also. Just makes it easier as I'm sure everyone knows. No fuss no muss!
Dave
 
Thought I post this hear as I wanted to verify something. Just picked up a new lectron for my fresh 05 EG yz144 build. Fitment was horrible of course. Stock carb is a tmxx and the airbox is way too long. Besides rubbing on the shock spring coils the boot deforms around the intake as you try to mount it on the carb since it just doesn't have anywhere to go. Cut down lectron is still almost 16mm longer than the tmxx. I trimmed the airbox a little bit and mounted it the best I can so we'll see if it holds up.

I tested the low end on my road yesterday and wanted to verify if this is normal. At the factory setting for the rod the bike had good response with no hesitation. It felt a little soft at the bottom but wasn't that bad. I believed it was rich though as the outside of the plug was really wet, the PV vent was constantly dripping and it rolled out of the silencer when I flipped up the sub frame to make a change. The revs also would dip a little bit down below idle then pick back up. The tip and tang of the plug was still dry and the bike would just sit and idle without dying.

I turned the rod 1/4 turn out and tested again. The response felt very similar but maybe not quite as smooth. The plug looked dryer and not AS coated. Revs would still dip down under idle then pop back up like it was a little rich. It was still dripping from the PV vent constantly. Bike would still idle without issues.

I then tried 1/2 turn out from stock settings. The off idle response started to develop that noticeable lean hitch but felt more crisp once you got past that than the last two settings. Plug was barely wet but the tang actually looked light colored just from sitting there idling and driving up and down a few times.

Tested 3/4 turn out real quick and that was obviously bad. It had a lean bog really bad off idle and I immediately shut off the bike.


Now my actual question is does this seem normal? This is obviously a new build but on my stock carb on my stock engine the plug never looked this wet nor did it constantly puck out the PV vent. I didn't get a chance to seriously warm up the bike as I was limited to idling and 0-1/4 throttle tests in my drive way to the road.
 
Unless you have brand new packing in your muffler and cleaned out all the old spooge in the drip tube and cavity on the PV I would guess 90% of that oil was already in there. What 2 stroke oil do you use?
 
ignore the spooge. its not an indicator of correct jetting. the plug color is.

take some time in the propper setting to get your baseline (after fittement issues are solved), then, swab or replace contaminated parts, or, wait for them to just blow clean for the most part if yer worried about spooge/drool.

if you have liquids dripping? the gas was left on, the pipe's flooded, the float's too high, or etc...pull it all off and let it hang and swab/drain/dry.

if you have a turbine sparky and do any plonking then WFO you will have a bit of drool in most cases due to the design of same. not a big deal.
 
Great info Dookie.

Did someone say float bowl float sticking and filling the pipe?

ATK%20flood-XL.jpg
 
My plug is wet i'm blipping the throttle in my garage with the bike a operating temperature. I'm cleaning the plug between each meter rod adjustment and leaning the meter rod a quarter of a turn each test. I think i'm now at 1 turn leaner on a 38 letron. Should i keep going leaner on the meter rod?.... i initial thought it was running lean, but then i checked the plug and its wet.
 
My plug is wet i'm blipping the throttle in my garage with the bike a operating temperature. I'm cleaning the plug between each meter rod adjustment and leaning the meter rod a quarter of a turn each test. I think i'm now at 1 turn leaner on a 38 letron. Should i keep going leaner on the meter rod?.... i initial thought it was running lean, but then i checked the plug and its wet.
My rod is at 2 1/4 turns lean on my 36mm (165) and still no lean symptoms.
 
My plug is wet i'm blipping the throttle in my garage with the bike a operating temperature. I'm cleaning the plug between each meter rod adjustment and leaning the meter rod a quarter of a turn each test. I think i'm now at 1 turn leaner on a 38 letron. Should i keep going leaner on the meter rod?.... i initial thought it was running lean, but then i checked the plug and its wet.
I am at 1 1/4 out on my second 38. My first one only took 1/2 turn. The 1 1/4 turn was in very dry air so your humid air might need to be set a little leaner than that.
 
I think as we have found with carburators these Husky 125/144/165 all take their own individual jetting. I can say that I completely burned out my pipe and silencer and re-packed my silencer that was full of a years worth of spooge both liquid and conjealed before mounting the second carb. The pipe and silencer working properly together probably allowed the leaner jetting too with better stuffing of the fuel charge back into the cylinder as well as allowing better breathing.........Lean it out until the plug looks good.
 
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