• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Safety Switch Bypass?

Ogre_fl

Ogre_fl

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Has anyone done the bypass of either the side stand switch or the clutch switch yet?

If so, do you have any tips or how to info.
 
Good stuff on the side stand switch, thanks.


The clutch switch bypass "might" not be needed, but think of this scenario:

The pesky neutral switch makes the bike "think" it’s in gear, because has finally failed completely.
The clutch switch is buggered, perhaps from a fall or just because it has failed.
The bike won’t start.

If it was not for the issues with the neutral switch, I would probably agree the clutch switch was no big deal.
I just don’t trust that neutral switch from completely crapping out one day and I have had clutch switches fail before.
 
Interesting......I've never encountered that problem in 40 years of riding. If your neutral indicator failed, and the system thinks it is "in gear", wouldn't the bike start if you simply pulled in the clutch?

HF
 
You are saying you have never had or seen a clutch switch fail?

I dont know, I have seen it to be pretty common for the clutch switch to fail from even a simple drop.
I have also found it a fairly common thing on dual sport bikes to disabled it along with the side stand switch.
I have done both on my last few bikes.
 
Strange. I've stalled my Terra many times off road and I can't get it to fire unless I get it into neutral. It's quite a pain when maneuvering up/downhill obstacles. It's been the reason I've put the dang thing on its side so many times. I'm getting good at picking it up though. That's a bonus. Heavy bugger.
 
^ There you go.
His clutch switch has failed. Bike wont start in gear with the clutch pulled, it has to be in neutral.
This happens a LOT.
Now add the issues some of us have had with the neutral switch and you are stuck.
Bypass that clutch switch and its no longer an issue.
 
Nope....never happened to me before. But now, I've probably jinxed myself.

Don't even know where this clutch switch is. Never hunted one down, obviously. Is it a open or closed circuit to activate?

HF
 
I can’t say I have had it happen to me a lot, but it has happened.
When I rode with the KLR crowd though, I would see it all the time.
If someone fell that did not have it by passed it would fail most times.
Most of the time you could just put the bike in neutral and it would start.
Many times you could monkey with the switch and get it working again.

When I started with DRZ's bypassing it almost became a necessity.
The DRZ (and other Suzuki’s I have had) HAD to have the clutch pulled to start even when it was in neutral.
If the clutch switch failed, your bike does not start.

On the DRZ's you could remove the whole switch & 2 wire assembly from the clutch lever back to where they had 2 connectors in the headlight area.
You then simply connected the 2 loose ends in the headlight area with each other as one was male the other was female. Really clean & really easy.
Other bikes I have had to cut and join the 2 wires.
I assume that is a closed circuit, similar to the side stand switch.

I don’t know what BMW does, but I doubt it will be as simple & clean as the DRZ.
Shoot they have a 3rd wire in the side stand switch....what is that for?
There is a wire assembly going to the clutch lever.
How many wires are in there....I don’t know?
 
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