• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Searching for low end 82 CR250

Thanks!
Restore with a shiny decal. Not perfect but very pretty.
There's a Pro Circuit pipe on fleabay an Asch pipe. Don't know that would do much for the low end.
 
Just ride it ditto/\ /\ said above. It's not complicated. You will get use to it, I did. If I did you can too.

You will like using the power coming out of the turns wicking it to steer it. Trust me you will like the power.
 
Eurofreak said:
Jimspac posted about a 20mm extension to the exhaust pipe from a Husky service bulletin. Wouldn't be difficult. I have a donor pipe.
Click to expand...

There is more to it than just the pipe. You can use a WR chamber to accomplish what you would to put 20mm into the header of the CR pipe. I would just work with a 82 WR sleeve pressed into the CR cylinder or I have an 82 WR cylinder that I determined the CR ports in the base gasket surface can easily be added because the surface to cut them into is actually thin wall.

The 250 that got the power valve was also a long stroke engine. You will not really get usable low end in the CR without sacrificing top end. If you plan to race motocross, you can live without the low end. I know it is no fun screaming a 250 like a 125 but that is what Husqvarna left us with until the came out with the long stroke and the powervalve.

Husqvarna focus in 1980 -1984ish was the 500 class. The 250CR went down in popularity because the Japanese 250s had near ideal engines, turned sharper, and were less expensive to boot.
 
I'm not much of a motocrosser. I'll try the vintage tracks- I like grass tracks. I will play with the jetting first and see what happens. I can also adjust timing a little. It feels great in the woods. Definitely will work for hare scrambles.
 
before changing the jetting, try a brand new stock idle jet in there. They do fur up and that those are the symptoms when they have........
 
Didn't the NETRA harescramble guys run cr's? Weren't the cr's more popular in the woods before the kdx200/220? I know the really fast guys used the kdx's later on. The kantoon 200 is popular today.
 
Don't know about NETRA. I'll check with Drew and see if he's got any advice. Time to see what's in the carb.
 
Look at the tech specs posted in my husqvarna 250 XC post there's two different carb setups one for a cr/XC and another for the wr. They change the inner parts on the wr maybe to calm the woods bike down?
 
I am sure there are 80's vintage motocross bikes in the NETRA vintage hare scrambles. It would be a good place to run the 86 KX250 I have
 
They change the inner parts on the wr maybe to calm the woods bike down?
Click to expand...
hard to read the chart
Main difference is needle jet and main jet needle. Forgive my ignorance- what is the needle jet and how do you change it?
Yeah Jim, I'm sure the motocrossers can be raced in the H.S. The bike handles great in the woods. Suspension works well slow and fast. It's the tight slow stuff I want to work on.

So...I pulled apart the carb. It's nice and clean. The needle position was set in #2 position (second from bottom groove).
The main jet is a 430- '81 Cr's had a 430, '82 specs a 410 for the CR and WR.
The pilot is only a #40- should be a #45. that would explain the low end bog along with the needle in the higher position.
Air screw was completely screwed in!
No fuel then too much fuel. I'll order a WR needle as well as a new couple of mains and a new pilot.
 
The needle jet is the verticle tube that the needle goes up and down in. Remove the main jet and the needle jet pushed up towards the direction of the sleeve when it comes out.
 
Air screw should be between 1 and 2.5 out, if the pilot is lean at 1.5 out you will get a surging engine at idle but you will need to warm the bike up and take it for a ride the surging will be worse when returning to idle from a high speed run.i had a 35 pilot and got surging at idle but would disappear with the air screw all the way in, went up to a 38 and set air screw at 1.5 never got a bog as such just surging at idle.
 
I go between 1/2 to 1 1/2 turn out I prefer to balance it at 1 turn out. This way we have half a turn to tweek it if needed after she's close. Remember we can get the first 90% of the jetting. The last 10% made me bald. I start out with the needle in the third groove.
 
Helps to boost compression ratio if you really need it. Not so much on the East coast where the trees and rocks are somewhat closer together
 
Low end is what your looking for the 11t front sprocket will give you a lower speed crawl. You will be n third gear more on the trails. You could get a wr cylinder and jet it for a wr.
 
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