• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

seat cover install.

Matt Cummings

Matt Cummings

Husqvarna
B Class
I searched the forum and google and didn't get any good information on the best way to install a seat cover onto a metal seat pan.
The original cover tore around the screws and lead to the failure of the cover itself.
Anybody got a better way? I normally use 1000 staples to hold the cover on and spread the load. I was told my stapler won't penetrate the metal pan.
If I have to go screws does anybody know of a way to staple/rivet/attach a metal washer to absorb some of the load and resist tearing again?
I have done a dozen seats on plastic but never metal. The seat was factory held on by flat head sheet metal screws but they were junk and destroyed, besides I hate anything flat head.
 
Sand the metal clean.
Contact cement both surfaces and let dry before sticking.
Add a screw here and there after, is all you can do.
 
If there is a lip round the seat use car upholstery clips to hold it on, then use glue and self tapping sheet metal screws to finish. The screws will rust and rot the cover evenyually just like staples on a plastic base:( .
 
Contact cement, use soldering iron to make holes in vinyl, drill, use aluminum pop rivets with aluminum washers.
 
Visiteur has the right idea i made mine at work out of s/s pop riveted them on with contact cement worked great i had my wife help me with the second one i did 4 hands are better than 2 and i didn't hardly even yell at her!:lol:
 
I am having this same issue on my 79 but my pan is a lil rusty , so I am going to look and see if someone makes a plastic one ?
 
3M upholstery adhesive ,alot of wooden /spring style clothes pins and a whole lot of patience.
 
Contact adhesive and a clean surface works well for me. I've never had to use fasteners. Shouldn't have to use clamps either but they certainly wouldn't hurt if the cement isn't setup enough before assembly. I know that high temps, e.g. greater than 100 degrees, can make the cement soft even though its dry to the touch (and before curing 100%). This will allow the seat cover to creep across the pan over a 2 - 3 hour period leaving you with a big let down when you return later to check out your handy work.
 
There are small tabs on mine, pointed so they go thru the cover and bend them to hold it. Along with the glue it should be good. also, heat the seat cover with a hair drier to stretch the cover. When it cools it will shrink a little and make a nice fit
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top