Spinning insert solution

[redlig23]

does anyone know where i can buy these inserts i have a 610 sm and the same thing happened to me

 

[cbreakin]

Mine too have started spinning 2009 SM510R 1800 miles never seen water. I like all of the solutions presented here and was wondering if bm36's awesome brass inserts would be something that could be replicated by a competent machinist relatively easily?

 

[redlig23]

Mine too have started spinning 2009 SM510R 1800 miles never seen water. I like all of the solutions presented here and was wondering if bm36's awesome brass inserts would be something that could be replicated by a competent machinist relatively easily?

im trying to find somewhere to buy one....

 

[bm36]

wondering if bm36's awesome brass inserts would be something that could be replicated by a competent machinist relatively easily?

Of course it can be done. I'm not really an experienced machinist. Anyone with a lathe, a brass rod, UNC 7/16-14 and M5-iso thread tools can make those inserts, no problem.

If you hand the drawing to a competent machinist he will probably manufacture these inserts in seconds in his CNC machine

I'll guess I have to post a drawing

 

[Eurofreak]

Another thing to be done before the inserts start to spin is to lightly grease the bolts going into the inserts- prevents electrolysis.

 

[redlig23]

Another thing to be done before the inserts start to spin is to lightly grease the bolts going into the inserts- prevents electrolysis.

well see the problem is one has already started spinning and now i need to fix it

 

[bm36]

well see the problem is one has already started spinning and now i need to fix it

I've sent a PM to Motosportz about these inserts. I'll guess you could ask him if he would like to start producing

 

[J.R.]

Has anyone had an insert spin on the subframe? The furthest rear insert for the left side number plate is spinning. So far I have drilled two small holes in order to push a tapered pin in and jam the insert, with no success.

Anyone encountered this?

I thought I saw a thread about this once but I have not been able to find it..

 

[Coffee]

Here are some rivnut threads:
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/tags.php?tag=Rivnut

 

[J.R.]

Thanks coffe, I already looked there but couldnt find any helpful info for my case. I did get the bolt out a little bit ago, But I drill a slot into the backside of the subframe so I could get some needle-nose vice grips on the insert.
Now Im just trying to figure out how to get the insert out so I can put another in its place...

 

[Coffee]

I know some have used epoxy to hold the old one in place, and apparently George has an impact wrench that he used with success.

You could always load the bike up and travel to a few machine shops or even motorcycle shops, and offer them up the challenge.

Visiting local people/shops usually yields good results for me on other issues.

 

[racemx904]

a buddy, and also longtime husky(late 60's) wrench, used an impact to take them off...i guess the quick start broke the 2 loose...i personally never had this problem and I take mine off weekly to clean under the shrouds, although i prolly just jinxed myself....

 

[J.R.]

Well, Im the kind of person that does as much as I can myself. I may not get it right the first time, But dammit, I usually learn something
As for machining parts, I will take it to a trusted local shop if its beyond my ability, but I usually do my own machining unless I dont have access to machines at the time. -Im currently going to school for CNC machining :bonk:

 

[Darkside]

For the tank inserts, I usually spin them until the whole thing comes out and then epoxy it back in. For the subframe inserts, there is a kit available to convert a pop rivet gun into a nutsert gun. It doesn't come in metric but the 10-32 arbor worked for re crimping the stock inserts in the subframe.

 

[dartyppyt]

I just did two on the sides of my tank. I had to drill the head of the bolt off to get the shroud off. I had to cut around the insert about a 1/16th of an inch before I pulled the insert out with needle nose pliers (Wouldn't come out without cutting around it). I trimmed around it real good with the razor knife after the insert was removed. I filled each hole with JB weld and let sit overnight. I was just going to drill the JB Weld and use a stainless screw like what is used on the front of the shroud (only smaller in length, about as deep as the insert so it would pierce the tank). I found inserts at the local home improvement store that had a ring around the insert. It had three small holes around the ring that I figured I could put a small screw thru. I drilled deep enough for the insert marking the drill bit with tape so I would drill deeper than original and new insert. I put a little epoxy around the new insert, pushed it in and took 3 small #4 stainless screws and ran them thru the insert ring holes. I then purchased stainless phillip head screws for the new inserts and small stainless fender washers. I also put antiseize compound on the threads. Worked like a charm and looks like it came from the factory that way.

 

[J.R.]

Well I got it. I drilled into the frame to get some vice grips on the back side. Then I used a bolt with a jam nut on it to tighten down and crimp the insert a little bit more. We'll see how long it lasts

 

[Slowpoke]

Instead of using grease or antiseize on the bolts that hold the plastics on, I use RTV silicone.
It provides a slight amount of resistance/anti vibration, to keep each small bolt in place and at the same time, seals the threads from water, dirt & grunge; keeping the threads from corroding etc.
Works well up here in the water/mud riding capital of the universe.
Done this on my last 4 bikes.

Works best if you start when the bike is new.

 

[dtaplay]

I think I've finally found the easy fix for the tank insert nut problem. See the following link.
http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/threads-unc.html

I used part number 329-4. They fit perfectly in the hole caused by the spinning nut. They thread in and by design resist turning back out. Only draw back is I had to switch to 1/4"-20 bolts. Not really a big deal just means I need to have a 11mm socket hand as well when removing panels.

Inserts went in very snug and I have not been able to turn one back out yet. There is lots of material around the hole in the tank so there is no worry of puncturing through the tank, they almost seem like a perfect fit. So far I'm very happy. In the past I've tried epoxying, construction adhesive, and jB welding the old insert back into the hole but they always eventually come loose again. This insert has been the best fix for me yet.

Hope this helps anyone else with the same problem. I got my inserts at one of the local fastener companies. They were a little pricey but well worth it. Took me ten minutes to install then and the tank is better then when new now.

 

[J.R.]

Why not use a metric piece? It looks like they have metric options as well as SAE

 

[dtaplay]

They didn't have the metric ones in stock with that O.D. They would have had to order them and wanted a minimum order of something like 50 pieces. I didn't know if they were going to work at the time so I took a couple of what they had to try. But they work great and now that they are in they won't back out, so they are staying in. Not a big deal for me, I will just convert all tank nuts to the same and be done with it. The key for anyone else is the O.D. of the insert and its length. The one I used fit perfectly into the hole left from spinning the old nut out and it bottomed out in the hole with the insert being just below the surface of the tank. It couldn't have been any easier or fit any better. Just pick the metric version if having to use imperial bolts bothers you. It's still easier and cheaper to get imperial bolts in Ontario then it is metric ones and since using either the metric or imperial insert required getting new bolts it was easier to get imperial bolts in the style i wanted. Pan head with a philips (smoother against inside of knee).