• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Splicing Instrument Wires?

H

Howard70

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello:

I'm mounting a Britannia Composites Lynx fairing to my '08 TE610.

I'd like to mount the OEM instrument panel fairly high up on the "dashboard" of the fairing. however, the stock wiring to the instrument panel is too short.

Is there any reason that I shouldn't splice 4" inches of comparable wire into each of the leads going into the stock instrument panel? I'd either use adhesive shrink tubing butt crimps or solder the connections.

The reason I'm asking is that I ran into some problems when I spliced extra length into the wiring of some electronic instruments on a sailboat many years ago. Apparently those instruments were sensitive to changes in the resistance of the wiring & when I soldered in similar, but different, wiring I altered the resistance & that affected the values displayed on the instrument panels.

Any danger of this on the Husky instrumentation leads?

Thanks,

Howard Snell
 
It is not like the sailboat instruments at all. I've dealt with those for decades and they are a pain in the rump. I could write thousands of words on that topic - especially the fluxgate compass sensors.


The instruments are are DC & a Hall effect sensors for the speedo and such and I seriously doubt there would be a problem. There is no magic impedance matching involved.

Of course the Mike Kay types might follow up with real world experiences.


My vote is always solder with adhesive shrink wrap, or at least shrink wrap.
 
Coffee;17539 said:
It is not like the sailboat instruments at all. I've dealt with those for decades and they are a pain in the rump. I could write thousands of words on that topic - especially the fluxgate compass sensors.


The instruments are are DC & a Hall effect sensors for the speedo and such and I seriously doubt there would be a problem. There is no magic impedance matching involved.

Of course the Mike Kay types might follow up with real world experiences.


My vote is always solder with adhesive shrink wrap, or at least shrink wrap.
Click to expand...

Yep, use water proof plug in connectors only on things that you may want to unplug the rest should be soldered and shrink tubed.
 
I mounted mine low as it would go so I wouldn't have to mess with
that wiring, and I wanted to mount my Heat-Troller above it, and have room for the GPS, and cover that annoying green light: ( I'll have to play with the brake line a bit:excuseme:)

IMG_2084.jpg
 
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