• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting problems

Runner

Runner

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 2006 TE-510 developed three starting problems during last weekend's ride

1. The clutch lever I installed evidently was wrong and did not trip the interlock button. After a few minutes of head scratching, the interlock was short circuited. I'll solder it up properly heat shrink the joint.

2. When trying to determine why the bike would not start, aya16, being the manly-man he his, broke the kick start lever casting. Is there a known defect with the kick start lever that I should buy an aftermarket lever? Or, is the OEM part normally OK?

3. After a few hours of riding, I think the electric start remote control switch failed. When this occured, I was forced to bump start the bike, fortunately, it fired-up fine and ran strong. Upon pushing the starter button, all that happens is that I hear it click, and the starter does not turn over. The battery was fully charged. It reminds me of a '60 era Ford starter relay clicking. Is this a simple remove and replace job?

All advice appreciated. Anybody in the LA area with parts?
 
Tri-County Powersports

We are located in Ventura County between the cities of Thousand Oaks and Simi Valley at 6190 Condor Drive Moorpark, Ca 93021 (right off the 118 / 23 fwy and just a few miles from the 101) phone# is 805-553-1933.
 
Hello glangston, I called TCP and no stock is available.

Does anybody have switch 8000 91115 / 8000 H0809, or an extra kick start lever?
 
I've tried all these sources, and sent RFQs out of state too. Apparently the switch is backed ordered.
 
Well, the Remote Switch (relay) arrived, and once installed, clicked like the orignial. After an hour of probing, I could not find why it would not crank. Battery charged, fuses good, everything buzzes out. Does anybody have an idea why it won't crank? How do I check the starter?

Where is the battery ground attached?
 
Check as many grounds as you can find, the battery, the handlebar, etc. I had the same prob with an old street bike, when I cleaned the main ground, exposed more bare metal, it started like new and never did it again.
 
The broken kickstart and the "click" of the starter- with good batter and such. Makes me thinke the AutoDeCompressor (ADC) is not functioning properly. Tthis could be caused by incorrect valve clearences or wear to the ADC itself on your exhaust cam. I would inspect those before buying anything else...
 
I'll try to rule out the ADC by pulling-in the handlebar mounted decompression lever and pressing the starter button, then checking if the starter spins. If no change, the the ADC is probably not involved.

OlderHuskyRider's comment about grounds sounds likely, and maybe a bad connector. I'll start pulling apart each electrical joint and connector. Hopefully they will go back together!
 
If you can put it on a stand, in gear and rotate the rear tire and turn the motor over OK, or try to bump start it in higher gear and motor turns over, I doubt the problem is mechanical beyond the starter motor itself.

When the relay clicks, all that happens then is power passes through it to the starter motor and the motor starts turning. The starter motor depends on a good ground connection back via a negative battery cable to the battery. Check both battery posts are wired and tight, and the ground end of the negative cable is proper. It is possible the relay contacts are bad. You can jumper the contacts by connecting the + battery post to the starter red cable or post. Watch for sparks though.

Since the relay clicks when you press the start button, your handlebar switches including the clutch lever switch are good. So I would focus on the starter relay and then the starter motor itself. Rest sounds OK.
 
Good suggestions, thanks. Should I try applying 12 V. from a car battery charger directly onto the starter? I think the 10 mm screw is the positive, and the 8 mm screw is the negative, but not sure. Where should I place the alligator clips?
 
Runner said:
Good suggestions, thanks. Should I try applying 12 V. from a car battery charger directly onto the starter? I think the 10 mm screw is the positive, and the 8 mm screw is the negative, but not sure. Where should I place the alligator clips?
Click to expand...
 
i have seen the cable that goes from the battery to the solenoid become loose frequently.also have sold numerous starter switch assys that go on the handlebars.have sold only 1 starter ever so it is not a usuall problem area.we have sold many kick start levers as 2006 and some 2007 bikes came with one that did not have enough meat down by the knuckle where it was needed.they all break in the same spot.we have the newer replacement version avail in stock .they run ~ $111 for the whole kick starter lever assy.i was unclear if the motor will kick over with the kick start lever when the lever broke.if the motor will kick over with the ks lever without the use of the manual decomp lever it is unlikely to have a problem with the auto decomp device.dan
 
You are exactly right about the kick start lever breaking at the knuckle because there is not enough meat there. That's where where mine broke. I ordered a new lever, and will look to see if it is thicker at the knuckle.

My suspicion is that there is a loose connection somewhere in the starting circuit.

Is it OK to apply 12 VDC directly on the starter?

I'm committed to finding out why my starter does not spin or I'll be committed!
frown.gif
 
I also tried pressing the starter button with the ADC lever pulled, and all that happened is more clicks at the relay. The ADC cable does move the mechanism at the top of the cylinder head.
 
My understanding is that the Manual Decompression lever and the Auto Decompression on the exhaust cam are related but separate. They are completely two separate mechanisms altogether/ but: If the ADC is not working because it is worn then Pulling the MDC may alieviate the problem and it will turn over normally. But if the ADC is not working because the valve clearence is off (more than .008) the MDC is also effected (but less so) so pulling it in in this case may not help much cause it can push doun far enough to actually open the valve.
I am with everyone though...It could totally be a weak battery or a bad electrical connection creating the same symptom - doesn't turn over. But it sounds like you have verified that that battery is good and connections are good... What voltage is you battery reading at? It could be bad even though it doesn't take a charge. Here's some threads where they went through the same issues- with good tests on the starter, and battery. As well as discussions about the ADC. no sence duplicating...
"starting issue"
"decompression lobe/ cam worn?"

I hope you find the issue
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I fought a similar problem with a bike about 30 years ago. It was the battery. A battery can show full voltage without a load, and go to a fraction of the nominal voltage as soon as you try to draw a lot of current. I assumed at the time that a bright head-light indicated a good battery. I learned that that is just not true. The head-light draws a lot less current than the starter, so a marginal battery can light up the lights just fine, but fall on it's face when called on to crank the starter.

Jumping the bike from a car will answer the question. If the bike starts when jumped, it's almost certainly the battery. A worn starter can cause the same problem and symptoms, but is a lot less likely to develop the problem suddenly. They go through a phase of intermittent problems before going completely bad. Dirty battery terminals are also likely to cause the same symptoms.

BTW, my battery developed the problem described above just from sitting for a week. I bought a car and didn't ride the bike for an entire 6 days. I thought the bike was angry about the the new four-wheeler. In my experience little motorcycle batteries just don't last like larger car batteries do. Is this you original 06 battery? If so, it's time for a change anyway.
 
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