Step by Step air box and air filter modification

[Kenneth Webb]

I think the Pod Mod is an excellent way to go, and will absolutely keep the crap out of our engines. That's why I bought the goods to do it that way. I the end I decided to try to make the stock airbox work. It is a bit more work, and a bit more money, and time will tell if it works as well as the Pod Mod.

 

[Riding Again]

I agree with every thing Kenneth said. The pod mod is an excellent way to go.

 

[glitch_oz]

Oh. what a lovely sight! Glad, I followed your steps!!

 

[ozav8r]

I think the Pod Mod is an excellent way to go, and will absolutely keep the crap out of our engines. That's why I bought the goods to do it that way. I the end I decided to try to make the stock airbox work. It is a bit more work, and a bit more money, and time will tell if it works as well as the Pod Mod.

Hi again Kenneth, I have decided to go the POD-route, and so would be happy to take the bits 'n pieces off you. Let me know what pieces you've got and how much you want for it to go in a UPS (or similar) ground shipping box to SoCal.
Cheers

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Pod goodies gone!

 

[mag00]

Used this stuff to seal up the lid I made.View attachment 39788
Drilled another 1/2" hole to access hose clamp on the breather.
View attachment 39789
View attachment 39790

I left mine in stock configuration. I now run a prefilter in the old filter chamber. This quiets the intake noise and helps keep the pod clean, and it will help keep that coarse stock filter in the little chamber for the Crank case vent clean. This is after about 300 miles in the Desert SW, not following anybody. No need to pull the airbox from the bike for this.

I have pictures of how it fits and looks in this topic
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-change-the-tr650-air-filter.40519/page-2

I have some material left.

 

[ozav8r]

Before I embark on the frontal lobotomy of the airbox, I have a question to you guys that have performed this mod. I saw DRDave's excelent 2-part Youtube video on how to perform the incision, so feel reasonably happy to do open up the guts of it. My question is; once you get to remove the Rubber Flange from the lip of the throttle body - does the metal "lip" of the throttle body intake protrude ABOVE the floor of the airbox, sufficiently to clamp the 90-degree hosepipe, or would I need to trim the perimeter of the hole in the airbox to get room the fit the hoseclamp?

 

[ozav8r]

Oh. what a lovely sight! Glad, I followed your steps!!

That looks very confidence inspiring! Wonder what mine will look like when I get to it?

 

[glitch_oz]

Before I embark on the frontal lobotomy of the airbox, I have a question to you guys that have performed this mod. I saw DRDave's excelent 2-part Youtube video on how to perform the incision, so feel reasonably happy to do open up the guts of it. My question is; once you get to remove the Rubber Flange from the lip of the throttle body - does the metal "lip" of the throttle body intake protrude ABOVE the floor of the airbox, sufficiently to clamp the 90-degree hosepipe, or would I need to trim the perimeter of the hole in the airbox to get room the fit the hoseclamp?

Have a good look at those pics
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pottering-around.39580/page-2#post-409594

 

[mag00]

Before I embark on the frontal lobotomy of the airbox, I have a question to you guys that have performed this mod. I saw DRDave's excelent 2-part Youtube video on how to perform the incision, so feel reasonably happy to do open up the guts of it. My question is; once you get to remove the Rubber Flange from the lip of the throttle body - does the metal "lip" of the throttle body intake protrude ABOVE the floor of the airbox, sufficiently to clamp the 90-degree hosepipe, or would I need to trim the perimeter of the hole in the airbox to get room the fit the hoseclamp?

Thank you for the compliment on the movies

Some have trimmed the hole, some not. On my bike, I removed the airbox, removed the rubber completely and made a large washer to fit on the TB to keep the airbox from resting down too far. But no, I believe glitch oz did a remarkable job surgically removing the top portion of the rubber grommet to make room for the hose to clamp onto the TB.

The process keeps getting refined as new ideas sprout with each mod. When we do Ace's, I'll see if he wants to do video of the grommet removal.

When I did mine is when I figured it could be done without removing the airbox, and then helped Mark do his and took the video on the fly.

Some more pictures in this topic http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-change-the-tr650-air-filter.40519/

 

[ozav8r]

Thanks very much - Glitch and mag00. Just found your "Pottering around" thread Glitch - a wealth of knowledge there - thanks for sharing! Parts are underway! - I'm not skeered (OK , perhaps a little, but must do this!)

 

[glitch_oz]

Try to cut the rubber doughnut flush with the inside-floor of the airbox.
This way you'll keep the rear airbox "seat/ spacer" off the fuel-rail and don't have to worry about anything outside the box.
There's enough (~12mm/ 1/2") metal-throat of the intake protruding to use a standard clamp.Having used the silicone-tubing for that section,
the clamp has the tendency to slightly slip the rear portion of the silicon-tubing, though.

I think I'll replace that clamp with some strong/ thin, galvanized twist-wire, forcing the silicon-tubing into the recess between the 2 extruded "rings" of the TB-intake.
Already used Liquid-gasket trying to glue that tubing before clamping.... anal, I know, but I like as many fail-safe's as one can squeeze in when it comes to engine-vitals.

 

[ozav8r]

Hi and thanks again Pete,
Looking at the exposed ridge that circles about half way up the available throttle body flange, I can see how that ridge actually serves to reduce the effectiveness of a regular hose clamp, as the effective footprint of stiction is less as it is in fact only using the available surface at the crest of the ridge. I reckon the wire-hose-clamps they use in woodworking should work out really well with the pliable but strong silicone hose, as it would have one wire clamping on either side of the ridge, making sure the bugger can't move.
Here's a link to what I talk about, but I shall source the right one and provide a proper link to where one get get them a soon as I've found it.

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/mpc-industries/wire-hose-clamps-65240-720499.html

I have also been briefly toying with the idea of LEAVING the rubber flange covering the throttle body intake, and enter the 90 degree bend with a reduction hose that takes the diameter down from 2.5" to 2.25" like this one:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=388&osCsid=f7b91c5cecb13bb83721840e94508065

clamping the outside of the 2.5" silicone, and then using an adhesive between the silicone hose and the existing rubber flange. I think I have discarded that idea after having entered the minefield of trying to find a suitable compound (glueing rubber and silicone together, that will last for years, without having to worry about it. I just don't want to get to servicing time, and find that my filter has come off at a time unbeknownst to me and that the engine has been unprotected for an unknown time period.

What a great community this is - really heartening to find the extent you guys go to to help one-another out.

 

[ozav8r]

I think this one should be spot on:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PC-ZINC-S...621?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a91271855

Will order it up to my LA mailbox and pick up on my next trip. Do you want one as well Pete - looks like they only ship internally in the US?

 

[glitch_oz]

Hi and thanks again Pete,
Looking at the exposed ridge that circles about half way up the available throttle body flange, I can see how that ridge actually serves to reduce the effectiveness of a regular hose clamp, as the effective footprint of stiction is less as it is in fact only using the available surface at the crest of the ridge. I reckon the wire-hose-clamps they use in woodworking should work out really well with the pliable but strong silicone hose, as it would have one wire clamping on either side of the ridge, making sure the bugger can't move.
Here's a link to what I talk about, but I shall source the right one and provide a proper link to where one get get them a soon as I've found it.

http://www.directindustry.com/prod/mpc-industries/wire-hose-clamps-65240-720499.html

I have also been briefly toying with the idea of LEAVING the rubber flange covering the throttle body intake, and enter the 90 degree bend with a reduction hose that takes the diameter down from 2.5" to 2.25" like this one:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=388&osCsid=f7b91c5cecb13bb83721840e94508065

clamping the outside of the 2.5" silicone, and then using an adhesive between the silicone hose and the existing rubber flange. I think I have discarded that idea after having entered the minefield of trying to find a suitable compound (glueing rubber and silicone together, that will last for years, without having to worry about it. I just don't want to get to servicing time, and find that my filter has come off at a time unbeknownst to me and that the engine has been unprotected for an unknown time period.

Looks like exactly the same thought-train...saw a silicon reduction-elbow at AutoBarn and thought I had it all licked in one go...attachment, elbow, leaving the doughnut OEM etc etc. Then looked at the available "wall-height" of the doughnut to attach the elbow tubing to...and discarded that whole idea.

Would LOVE one of those wire clamps! Better than the twist-wire which could be a bit awkward to work with that close to the airbox-floor.
YES, PLEASE! :-)

Btw...got a sufficient piece of Silicon-tubing for the TB-to-elbow connection ( 50mm ID thickwall-elbow from Bunnings/ plumbing section) for you if you want.
They come in 4" length or so and 2 are needed for the job.
For the horizontal connector I used a flexible (EPDM rubber) pipe-connector.
(Bunnings, same isle, next bin :-) Made to go well with the PVC elbow/ no slip.

 

[ozav8r]

OK, no worries. I'll order up a couple of extra of those wire hose clamps. My next LA-trip gets back to Tulla on the 10th June. Any other Aussies needing one of these doodads as well? Speak now or forever hold your peace (actually - I'm lucky enough to go to the US a couple of times a month, and I'm quite happy to (and used to) being a Pacific mule with the good bits n'pieces denied to us, but that our American friends can have strange brown trucks deliver on their door step....)

 

[drzcharlie]

No need for wire hose clamps. 3/8" cheapy hose clamps work brilliantly. I bought expensive T clamps but they were too bulky to fasten the elbow to the TB. In this case cheap is better.

 

[ozav8r]

I hear what you're saying drzcharlie and as I haven't even opened mine up yet, I certainly appreciate standing on the shoulders of you blokes that have gone ahead of me here. The wire hose clamp I found should do a better job IMHO, as it applies the force both above AND below the ridge, and as such increases stiction and should do a better job of preventing the (presumably constant - albeit slight) twisting force applied by the weight of the filter, necessary hoseclamps and corner tube, that could - as glitch found - have "a tendency to slightly slip the rear portion of the silicone tubing". It looks like it shouldn't take any more space in the tight spots, and as it was only a few bucks (and I have already ordered it;-) I might as well use it. I'm sure you're right that a regular one would do, but once you get an idea in your head etc....

 

[mag00]

I hear what you're saying drzcharlie and as I haven't even opened mine up yet, I certainly appreciate standing on the shoulders of you blokes that have gone ahead of me here. The wire hose clamp I found should do a better job IMHO, as it applies the force both above AND below the ridge, and as such increases stiction and should do a better job of preventing the (presumably constant - albeit slight) twisting force applied by the weight of the filter, necessary hoseclamps and corner tube, that could - as glitch found - have "a tendency to slightly slip the rear portion of the silicone tubing". It looks like it shouldn't take any more space in the tight spots, and as it was only a few bucks (and I have already ordered it;-) I might as well use it. I'm sure you're right that a regular one would do, but once you get an idea in your head etc....

Just check it alot at first, then report back. It'a all about putting these ideas to the test. I used the band type. Thought about the dual wire and just went with stainless. Way easy.

 

[glitch_oz]

No need for wire hose clamps. 3/8" cheapy hose clamps work brilliantly. I bought expensive T clamps but they were too bulky to fasten the elbow to the TB. In this case cheap is better.

Problem is trying to find 3/8" wide (narrow) clamps here. 1/2 and 5/8 wide are the common item all throughout the local auto + hardware stores.
With the small market here, LOTS of everyday items you guys in the US/UK/EU are used to are either not available, ridiculously expensive or take days of running around and sourcing.
You'll have to make do with the best locally available....or get stuff via Ebay/ Gumtree.
Anyone not living in the main centers is even worse off.

The wire clamps make good sense....or just add to the garage collection of odds and ends.