• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Strange Dyno result on my TE449 -11

I fully agree with you regarding the difference in dynofigures.
Similar thing has happened when I have dynoed my race cars.
Dyno correctly set up never lies and therefore I will find my
missing hp one way or the other! A few percent I have no problem
with to lack.

Hopefully I can give you feedback about performance vs other
bikes in a few weeks.

Rob


huskylove said:
I know everyone says forget the numbers, but that is just silly. Your bike if tuned properly should be capable of power in the 40+ range.

Unless your knobby tire is slipping on the rollers. That could easily be part of the problem.

Also adjusting the ignition mapping from zip ty on my power commander made a HUGE difference as far as high rpm power goes. The factory ignition mapping must pull timing at high rpm or something. So that could also be why this 511 made 53bhp and yours made 35?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uT7aZFn3dzI


that guy dyno's a 449 and a 511 both are in the 50hp range on the dyno, there is NO WAY a modern dyno is 50% or more innacurate unless the operator punches in some seriously wrong numbers.
Click to expand...
 
Just for reference, this is the dyno of my bike. Stock airbox, stock huge pipe with cat removed, and map3 and JD tuner. Stock knobby as well

9377458237_1bc1aef996_c.jpg
 
So? How did it go. Now that I have supermoto wheels with 15/44 gearing the bike doesn't quite rip like it used to.
 
I have not received my pipe yet.
But the bike has started to sputter on 1/2 rpm and more. I am guessing it is the ignition ground problem.
So I will try to make better ground connections on it as soon as I can find time and energy for it.

Or could it be anything with the gas pump or something? I doubt it since the exhaust fumes smells a bit of gasoline when it starts to sputter and miss every now and then.

I will also disassemble the Akra pipe and see if I can find some better flow in that one too.

Until I have made progress to share with you, here is a pic of my bike as it is almost finished. Only lacks my skid plate, Tuggers and my GPS mount. =)
I will post result here as soon as I have anything to share. And I do mean anything, since I belive in helping others. Just bear with me.

IMG_1890.JPG

Rob
 
Robster said:
I have not received my pipe yet.
But the bike has started to sputter on 1/2 rpm and more. I am guessing it is the ignition ground problem.
So I will try to make better ground connections on it as soon as I can find time and energy for it.

Or could it be anything with the gas pump or something? I doubt it since the exhaust fumes smells a bit of gasoline when it starts to sputter and miss every now and then.

I will also disassemble the Akra pipe and see if I can find some better flow in that one too.

Until I have made progress to share with you, here is a pic of my bike as it is almost finished. Only lacks my skid plate, Tuggers and my GPS mount. =)
I will post result here as soon as I have anything to share. And I do mean anything, since I belive in helping others. Just bear with me.

View attachment 39959

Rob
Click to expand...


Very nice bike! I am interested in what the deal is still. I would like you to find some magic problem that gives it 10hp :) that we can all try it!
 
Found atleast one big problem the other day. I had bad ground wiring to the spark plug. I had missed that it is a pretty common problem. New wiring from - battery to injection and to spark plug and gone was the flat top end. Now pulls HARD all the way to rev limiter that cuts like an axe by the way. Hopefully I can dyno it in a week or two again. Sad to say, but my FMF Powercore 4 exhaust is still in the US and I am in europe. So most likely the dyno with the FMF exhaust will be in late august or so. Still smiling though that I found the biggest problem of it and that it was as cheap as just new ground wiring. =) I can almost promise that it will give 10 hp. HUGE difference in how the bike pulls over 7k rpm.

Not certain Tinken, but this Akra pipe that I got on comes stock with all TE449/511 that are sold in Europe. Sounds a bit restrictive yes, but I would be surprised if it steals more than 5 hp. My bike should deliver at least 45hp on the wheel as it stands today. Hopefully +50 with FMF powercore 4 pipe, but I might be hoping for too much there.

As soon as I got a new result or a better test drive I will post it here.



//Rob
 
Yepp. But I re-did the whole ground from battery to frame, to injection and to spark plug. All new and 4 times bigger diameter on the cable.
 
Had a longer run the other day and found something to fix that I so far have not found a proper solution for. When on even low throttle for some time and then wanna pin it the bike just starts sputtering and run real bad. If I then back of throttle and pin it again it runs as it should. But this is not acceptable though. Have played a bit with the JD Tuner, but are not sure what to change to what to get it to go away. Any ideas?
 
Do you have fuel? Is the transfer valve open all the way?

Maybe you should add more fuel at low rpm and try that or use the AP function if there is one.
 
AP function?
I have added more fuel, but will try to add even more.
Atleast I have no more flameouts since I added the JD Tuner and adjusted some extra fuel on the low rpm.
Transfer valve is open yes, if you mean the one between the black and the transparent fuel tanks.

Rob
 
That almost sounds like the 'dead throttle' problem - does it just basically bog and do nothing if you crack the throttle really fast? Then if you let off and get back on its normal? This is the main reason I removed the 2nd throttle body butterfly, stops the dead throttle situation.
 
danny318 said:
That almost sounds like the 'dead throttle' problem - does it just basically bog and do nothing if you crack the throttle really fast? Then if you let off and get back on its normal? This is the main reason I removed the 2nd throttle body butterfly, stops the dead throttle situation.
Click to expand...


It sputters and runs real bad on same rpm basically. Off and on again and then it rips. Thinking about removing the butterfly, but since it works great when on even throttle for 5 seconds, so very frustrating.
 
Robster said:
It sputters and runs real bad on same rpm basically. Off and on again and then it rips. Thinking about removing the butterfly, but since it works great when on even throttle for 5 seconds, so very frustrating.
Click to expand...


Sounds different to my own experiences on my bike with 'dead throttle'.
Mine ran smooth, but just had no power at full throttle intermittently. Rolled the throttle off & back on, all good again.
Didn't miss fire/splutter, just no power.

Have you tried testing/moving the coil earth wire as mentioned in other threads?
 
Dangermouse449 said:
Sounds different to my own experiences on my bike with 'dead throttle'.
Mine ran smooth, but just had no power at full throttle intermittently. Rolled the throttle off & back on, all good again.
Didn't miss fire/splutter, just no power.

Have you tried testing/moving the coil earth wire as mentioned in other threads?
Click to expand...

Dangermouse449 said:
Sounds different to my own experiences on my bike with 'dead throttle'.
Mine ran smooth, but just had no power at full throttle intermittently. Rolled the throttle off & back on, all good again.
Didn't miss fire/splutter, just no power.

Have you tried testing/moving the coil earth wire as mentioned in other threads?
Click to expand...



I re-routed the ground wiring from spark plug up to frame, injection to frame and from battery to frame.
Made a world of difference for me on mid and higher rpms.
Coil earth? Do you mean the thing sitting at the back of the motor, which people recommend turning 180 degrees and fastening?

Very frustrating this sputtering, since it runs really good thru the whole register except for when on even throttle on low rpms for +5 seconds or more
and then pinning it. Then it sputters. All else thru the register I can have even throttle for as long as I want and when I pin it it roars.
Gonna try to richen up the low rpms even more and see if it helps.

//Rob
 
Coil earth = spark plug earth wire.

Mate, I'm no expert on the PCV, but on other systems I've worked with I reckon you would get a better fix by using the 'accelerator pump' function.
If your fuel mix is correct at low rpm, then AP just richens only for that lean time as the throttle gets swung open.
That way you don't run rich when you don't have to.

There's others here better to talk to on these systems & i might be way off...
 
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