• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Sudden slack in clutch lever

BiG DoM said:
Shit - think mines gone as well! I thought it was the cable as it was fraying at the lever... when I went to unhook it at the actualor arm I realised the action was very slack - like virtually just the spring!!:confused: My question - is the replacemnt part just as likely to fail down the line (same quality or beefier)? How much room is there where it breaks for a weld - ie inside the cutout shoulder? (there is mention here of some one welding it).

I am thinking I should do the cup washers at the same time as I have them ... better get a brass bushing too ...
Click to expand...

Ok I eventually got to this and the actuator arm is fine. The pushrod also looks fine except for some scoring on the actuator side (I see in the earlier pic similar marks). Is this normal? Could one simply reverse the rod when reasembling or better just leave as is? I decided to do the cup washers at the same time and have just caught them in time with two starting to disintigrate and others looking thin. I am hoping now when it all goes back to gether with a new clutch cable all will be good and that the slackness was indeed the deteriorating cable.
 
BiG DoM said:
Ok I eventually got to this and the actuator arm is fine. The pushrod also looks fine except for some scoring on the actuator side (I see in the earlier pic similar marks). Is this normal? Could one simply reverse the rod when reasembling or better just leave as is? I decided to do the cup washers at the same time and have just caught them in time with two starting to disintigrate and others looking thin. I am hoping now when it all goes back to gether with a new clutch cable all will be good and that the slackness was indeed the deteriorating cable.
Click to expand...

What's you mileage?
 
Those who have done the cup washers - how notched were the tangs of your clutch basket? I am about to refit mine and am not sure if I should dress them slightly (just the raised parts). They are not heavily worn IMO and I know filing them needs to be done carefully and is only ever a temporary fix.
 
Ok all put back together ... cable not fitted yet but the actuator lever is very weak/slack. I am thinking the spring is shot - it is not broken but just does not pull back properly! Anyone had this?
 
When I put a new cable on I have to readjust the side by the motor to get to usable adjustment by the lever.. maybe that??
 
LRPct said:
When I put a new cable on I have to readjust the side by the motor to get to usable adjustment by the lever.. maybe that??
Click to expand...

Its very weak at the actuator lever at the motor - very little sprung leverage? I will try and fit a cable but just does not seem right. How much actuator lever travel is there normally at the end of the lever = there is probably 10-12mm / half inch. Is this right? Just does not feel right.
What else could cause this slack?
 
BiG DoM said:
Its very weak at the actuator lever at the motor - very little sprung leverage? I will try and fit a cable but just does not seem right. How much actuator lever travel is there normally at the end of the lever = there is probably 10-12mm / half inch. Is this right? Just does not feel right.
What else could cause this slack?
Click to expand...

Ok problem solved. When putting the clutch back together I noticed that the screw adjuster on the end of the rod bearing was sitting a bit proud of the lock nut ... and according to Mr Uptite earlier in the thread should be flush... so I loostened it and turned it in flush. He metioned that in the case above that it may have backed itself out. Well I must say when I loostened it I wondered how the hell it could have done so when it is locked so tight but adjusted it anyway. Well as they say FAIL! Once adjusted back out to where it was (about one thread becoming visible) I suddently have sprung adjustment at the actuator lever - of course doh! - because there is now pressure on the pressure plate. (The Tech Repair Manual in fact gives a complicated equation as to the distance there should be between the actator arm and the lower cable adjuster for this adjustment but cannot fathom it!?)

But bottom line problem solved. Have clutch. Will ride.:D

PS. Anyone doing clutch adjustment, cup washers etc - the oil pump shaft can fall out the side cover... it is keyed so ensure that it goes back properly into the pump and also that it is aligned with the drive key slot when refitting side cover.
 
I have same problem with clutch actuator arm. Where have you guys ordered this actuator arm? My local dealer said that it will be available only after 1 year. If I order it now I will get it on 06/2015. Ebay don't have any offers as well. Is there any other location?

Best regards!
 
i remember reading somewhere that someone fixed a broken one by welding it, you could consider that as an option
 
Tha
Mr0wyx said:
I have same problem with clutch actuator arm. Where have you guys ordered this actuator arm? My local dealer said that it will be available only after 1 year. If I order it now I will get it on 06/2015. Ebay don't have any offers as well. Is there any other location?

Best regards!
Click to expand...
I am on my third actuator arm. The first one cracked and bent. The second got wear marks and was replaced out of caution. In each case my local dealer got the actuator within one week. Moto Forza in Escondido.
 
Looks like I need an arm too...

Any tips on welding. I could mig it and dress it up in a pinch but I'm considering having a local machine shop tig it up for me.


~ False alarm ~ only clutch cable at perch. Time to put the pre-routed spare in service and order a fresh cable. Also good time to inspect the rework the perch / lever / cable issue.

*** Anyone have an alternate / INDUSTRIAL clutch shaft seal part number? On inspection of the clutch arm / shaft assy I knocked the spring loose from the lip of the clutch shaft seal.




 
BiG DoM said:
Ok problem solved. When putting the clutch back together I noticed that the screw adjuster on the end of the rod bearing was sitting a bit proud of the lock nut ... and according to Mr Uptite earlier in the thread should be flush... so I loostened it and turned it in flush. He metioned that in the case above that it may have backed itself out. Well I must say when I loostened it I wondered how the hell it could have done so when it is locked so tight but adjusted it anyway. Well as they say FAIL! Once adjusted back out to where it was (about one thread becoming visible) I suddently have sprung adjustment at the actuator lever - of course doh! - because there is now pressure on the pressure plate. (The Tech Repair Manual in fact gives a complicated equation as to the distance there should be between the actator arm and the lower cable adjuster for this adjustment but cannot fathom it!?)

But bottom line problem solved. Have clutch. Will ride.:D

PS. Anyone doing clutch adjustment, cup washers etc - the oil pump shaft can fall out the side cover... it is keyed so ensure that it goes back properly into the pump and also that it is aligned with the drive key slot when refitting side cover.
Click to expand...

Hello Big Dom,

As per your description it seems that I'm having the same exact problem you had. Only problem is that I can't get the way you solve it.
Everything started after my levers change, It seemed that the cable was a bit too long and I had to adjust it a few times. Until it broke and I ordered a new one. Then while changing it. I noticed that problem you mentioned above. The bike is only 1000 miles, yes almost new for a 2006, and this is driving me crazy.
My question here is. Is it possible that you give me a more detailed explanation of how did you fix it? Like letting mi know on the part manual wish part is that rod bearing.
And for the record, yes I had my clutch adjusted to the maximun in order to get neutral easier...
Thanks in advance for your help and thanks to all you guys that allow us to know our bikes a litter bit more each time we get here.
I owe you some pic of my baby wich I think is a beauty.

Vss and Gass

QUIMBOLO
 
hi guys
plz help
mine broke today and one part stay inside the case
any tips how to remove it
sorry for my english
 

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I removed mine from my 610 to inspect it (it was not broken). It didn't take much force to be extracted, but I have to say that I had removed the rod of the clutch which is pushed against that shaft by the six springs of the clutch. So, you should disassemble the clutch up to this point and then slide the rod out of its shaft; here is that rod.
Then, you could maybe extract the missing piece with a magnet.
 
Theo said:
I removed mine from my 610 to inspect it (it was not broken). It didn't take much force to be extracted, but I have to say that I had removed the rod of the clutch which is pushed against that shaft by the six springs of the clutch. So, you should disassemble the clutch up to this point and then slide the rod out of its shaft; here is that rod.
Then, you could maybe extract the missing piece with a magnet.
Click to expand...



i will try it tommorow
do i need to remove the brake pedal or not?
for the clutch case to be removed?
 
Hi, decided to revive an old thread for
my first post. I had the problem of not being to find neutral, especially when coming to a stop in gear. I could do the tap dance, but not every time.
I reomved the clutch cover and inspected the friction and steel plates. They looked OK but I decided to replace them as long as I was in there.
I took the thrust bearing flange and adjusted the screw so it was flush with the jam nut. Re-assembled, new clutch cable, fresh amsoil 10-60,
and took it for a ride. WOW. Holy crap I can shift to neutral with a gentle pull of my foot after coming to a stop every time.
No tap dance needed ever.
I am convined the adjustment of the screw on the thrust bearing flange was the trick. I could of probably done just that and been good.
No matter how much you adjust the cable the cam on the lever being pulled by the cable will only move the rod that pushes the thrust flange so much.
By tightening the screw on the flange you effectively make the rod longer getting more movement of the pressure plate.
Anyway, this forum is a great resource and led me straight to the problem.
I was gonna sell this bike to help fund my latest track car build, but I may have to keep in now

thanks
Phil
 
Circus said:
Gentlemen, thanks for your replies. Clutch is getting even more slack and almost out of barrel adjustment.

George, I checked the motor end of the cable -- it was tight. Here is a photo of that end -- can't see the bolts, but it's tight. I checked it this past weekend when changing my cam chain (this issue started prior to changing the cam chain).

IMG_0320.jpg


IMG_0316.jpg


The existing cable is from Motion Pro replaced 7 months and 4000 miles ago. The old, stock cable was frayed bad at the motor end (down to 2 strands). But my clutch never felt as slack as it does now. Do these cables fray from within the housing (as opposed to the ends)?

I will go ahead an order a new cable -- anything better than Motion Pro? In the meantime if it is not the cable what else could cause this? What pulls the clutch lever back to taught? The 6 clutch springs, the spring on the pivot arm next to the starter motor . . .?
Click to expand...
Is the arm bent down??twisted shaft?
 
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