suspension set up on TE511

[Dangermouse449]

You can check them before a ride with the bike on a race stand and forks at full extension.
Don't seem to ever get much out of mine even after a hard ride and strapping down on the trailer.
A little puff at best every so often.

 

[Cosmokenney]

You guys misread my question. I don't weigh 240 lbs. I'm adding on (estimating) for gear and pack like I said. But I could stand lose a few pounds. I should try that. ;-)

So how much do you weigh? You aren't carrying 50 lbs of gear are you? So, if you are over 200 lbs, you need springs, trust me. David said he's at 82 to 85 kg, that puts him at between 181 to 187 lbs. He's still just barely in the range for the stock suspension, and can get away with clicker adjustments.

You asked for help with your settings at your riding weight with gear at 240 lbs. You'll never get there with your clickers by themselves. And at your riding weight, you are riding with that bike in the middle of the stroke -- effectively reducing your travel by half.

I tried to get it right with just the clickers at 208 lbs + 5 to 10 lbs of gear and could never get it right. It's not a lot of money for springs. Trust me, I held out for the longest time because I hate spending money on a brand new bike. But I was so frustrated by the suspension, I finally caved, and now I wish I did it sooner. One of these days I'm going to add the gold valves too.

Put a want ad in the Classifieds here. With all the guys selling off their 449/511s you might just get a hit.

 

[N4544D]

So how much do you weigh? You aren't carrying 50 lbs of gear are you? So, if you are over 200 lbs, you need springs, trust me. David said he's at 82 to 85 kg, that puts him at between 181 to 187 lbs. He's still just barely in the range for the stock suspension, and can get away with clicker adjustments.

You asked for help with your settings at your riding weight with gear at 240 lbs. You'll never get there with your clickers by themselves. And at your riding weight, you are riding with that bike in the middle of the stroke -- effectively reducing your travel by half.

I tried to get it right with just the clickers at 208 lbs + 5 to 10 lbs of gear and could never get it right. It's not a lot of money for springs. Trust me, I held out for the longest time because I hate spending money on a brand new bike. But I was so frustrated by the suspension, I finally caved, and now I wish I did it sooner. One of these days I'm going to add the gold valves too.

Put a want ad in the Classifieds here. With all the guys selling off their 449/511s you might just get a hit.

I have a spring that would work for you; 6.6kg/mm; good for 225-250lbs. I had 100mm sag at 225lbs. It's in the queue for classified ads, which nobody is attending to. $50 shipped to New Mexico.

If you are undersprung, you can feel harshness as the suspension is in the firmer part of the stroke (versus the less damped upper part). Sometimes you go heavier on the springs to have a more supple suspension (to a certain point). I typically prefer heavier springs and lighter compression settings versus the other way around.

 

[mlorenzini]

I have a spring that would work for you; 6.6kg/mm; good for 225-250lbs. I had 100mm sag at 225lbs. It's in the queue for classified ads, which nobody is attending to. $50 shipped to New Mexico.

If you are undersprung, you can feel harshness as the suspension is in the firmer part of the stroke (versus the less damped upper part). Sometimes you go heavier on the springs to have a more supple suspension (to a certain point). I typically prefer heavier springs and lighter compression settings versus the other way around.

Ok, let me think about that. Where did you get the spring? What is the stock spring rate?

 

[N4544D]

ZipTy Racing set up my suspension and used that spring. I ended up losing about 20lbs (and was on the light side of that spring range) so ended up dropping a rate to 6.4. You would want to balance that with fork springs (I had either .50s or .52s), not sure which. I can't help you out with the fork springs though I think the stock rear spring is 5.xx something...

 

[Cosmokenney]

By the way, did you get this bike new? If not, you might want to check to make sure you have the stock springs on there in the first place.

 

[Dangermouse449]

Ok, let me think about that. Where did you get the spring? What is the stock spring rate?

Going from memory here (Can't put my finger on the info just now) but the fork was 0.46kg/mm & the rear spring was 5.6kg/mm.

And Cosmo is correct, I'm about halfway between the standard springs & needing the next heaviest set at my weight.
My clickers are in a bit from stock settings but still have more adjustment left.

As Gilles & the others have pointed out, with your extra gear time to spend some coin.

They are fairly easy to change yourself if you are a bit mechanical. Then you need to work through your clicker settings again to suit.
On this, not sure if the larger US fuel tank makes any difference, but removing the rear shock is something I love about this bike.
It looks like it'll be a bastard, but is very simple. They put a lot of effort into accessing the shock easily.

 

[gillies]

I'm not affiliated with Race Tech in any way, but as I've read this discussion I keep thinking of how some of the best money I've ever spent in a motorcycling hobbie that spans 35 years of dirt and street riding was the purchase of Race Tech's Suspension Bible. http://www.amazon.com/Techs-Motorcycle-Suspension-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760331405 It is simply written and will completely change your view on how suspension really works. Whether you decide to buy their stuff or not is entirely up to you, of course.

I learned that I needed a rear spring (relatively cheap and easy to replace) along with new valving in the forks (Gold Valves) which I also did myself with help from DIY videos on You Tube. I learned about suspension. I learned how to rebuild my forks, and am very pleased with the results at a minimal cost.

 

[mlorenzini]

Thank you men for all the help! I am familiar with Race Tech. I have a KLR 650 and used their springs and gold valve emulators in my forks and replaced the spring on the rear shock with a stiffer one. Greatly helped my big pig. Now I ride the Husky more than the KLR and I'm reluctant to invest in suspension again but I supposed I may have to. I did buy the TE new so I know it has the stock spring. I should probably get that Suspension Bible too as I have a very minimal understanding of suspension.

 

[Cosmokenney]

Thank you men for all the help! I am familiar with Race Tech. I have a KLR 650 and used their springs and gold valve emulators in my forks and replaced the spring on the rear shock with a stiffer one. Greatly helped my big pig. Now I ride the Husky more than the KLR and I'm reluctant to invest in suspension again but I supposed I may have to. I did buy the TE new so I know it has the stock spring. I should probably get that Suspension Bible too as I have a very minimal understanding of suspension.

I just sold my '09 KLR a couple of months ago! I never rode it after getting my TE, so I decided to let it go.

 

[turtlemoye]

Going from memory here (Can't put my finger on the info just now) but the fork was 0.46kg/mm & the rear spring was 5.6kg/mm.

Anyone know if these #'s are correct? When I play around RaceTech's spring rate calculator here's what I'm getting:
Riding Type: Trail/Enduro
Age: 30-44 Years Old
Skill Level: Dirt Novice/Intermediate/C Class
Height: Standard Height
Gas Tank: Standard Gas Tank
Rider Weight (without gear) 240#

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 0.471 kg/mm (use closest available)

REAR SHOCK SPRINGS
Recommended Shock Spring Rate: 6.247 kg/mm (use closest available)

I find it interesting that I'm in the middle for the fork and the stock might be ok but I need a much stiffer spring in the rear. I do realize that selecting enduro riding and a "C" class rider is making my results much lighter than if I was a faster racer taking higher speed hits but I'm still surprised I'd be ok with mid weight fork springs but need a much heavier rear. I guess I should be happy that I don't need to replace the springs.

 

[gillies]

What are the sag measurements on the forks stock? You on the bike with gear. Push down on the forks, release, and measure. Then pull up on the forks, realease, and measure. Split the difference between the two, and you've got your sag.

I'm not as heavy as you - 190# - but I only revalved my fork. I did, however, go heavier with shock spring, which made a huge difference.

 

[Husq-a-daygo]

I wouldn't put all my eggs in the race tech basket. The Italian husky platform requires specialists who understand how CTS affects the bikes handling and performance of the shock. 6.2kg/mm is a really stiff spring rate. I'm not sure you will be able to get your sag right with that stiff of spring. I'd bite the bullet and give zip Ty a call. Suspension is not something you want to cut corners with.

 

[Dirtdame]

Anyone know if these #'s are correct? When I play around RaceTech's spring rate calculator here's what I'm getting:
Riding Type: Trail/Enduro
Age: 30-44 Years Old
Skill Level: Dirt Novice/Intermediate/C Class
Height: Standard Height
Gas Tank: Standard Gas Tank
Rider Weight (without gear) 240#

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate: 0.471 kg/mm (use closest available)

REAR SHOCK SPRINGS
Recommended Shock Spring Rate: 6.247 kg/mm (use closest available)

I have checked spring rate suggestions for the various Husqvarna models that I own on the Racetech website, and noticed that their calculations seemed quite far off for my weight and use, and not necessarily always in one direction. As an example, their website had suggested that I use the stock rear spring weights on both my WRs, but I already knew that those were too heavy by at least two increments. On my TE450, the fork spring rate that they suggested was for what a 250 two stroke might need if I were riding it.

 

[Huskynoobee]

I'm running a 5.6 rear spring (can't remember fronts but I think they're .48) geared up at about 240# and set up for desert which is a mix of wfo and tight technical nasty rocky hills. Springs ain't the only things to worry about. I'm about a C/B- rider myself.

For my lack of experience with modern suspension and really having none of the proper tools to do it right, it was a easy decision for me to have Ty work on them for me.