• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Swingarm Assembly to frame 1980 CR 390

HuskyT

Moderator
Staff member
Proper placement of SST wear washers in swingarm assembly?

Just confirming what I am seeing: Do the wear washers go against the inside frame and up against the swinarm bearing oring surface ( basically rubbing up against the swingarm tube?

Also , I have heard that it is important to not have paint or powder where the swingarm bolt /washer goes up against the frame for motor/motoplat grounding to the frame? IS this true? Is this ever an issue?

What about the idea of using a internal / external tooth washer or a serrated washer over the swingarm bolt for this purpose instead of the stock flat washer? I really do not want to remove any fresh powder.

Any thoughts?

T
 
Washer against the frame. Remove the paint both in-board and out, same on the front mounting lugs and motor plates also coil mount. If you don't motor will not be solidly mounted and will loosen all the bolts then the swingarm bolt will oblong the hole in the frame, then it will get ugly as will have to weld it up and start over. Later George
 
Great advice. My friends dad when I was growing up had the Husky shop here in town, in the back of his muffler shop, heh its a small town. When assembling the new bikes he always took the front engine mounts off and buffed all the paint off of mating surfaces. He also did the same with the coil mounting and voltage regulator mounting also. While he was at it he would run a redundant ground wire from the ignition to the coil. He said it was easier to do that and keep them running good than deal with the warranty paperwork that never paid enough! When I worked for Caterpiller nothing went together with paint between it.
 
Good tips. I have actually had to add the extra, direct ground wire on bikes that I could not get to run right any other way.

On the older KTM's with rubber mounted handlebars, they used a braided ground strap between the handlebar and the triple clamp so the kill button would work.
 
Back
Top