take a look at my spark plug

[blueknob]

I just installed new muffler and rejetted the bike, its a 2007 te 610. used a JD jet kit, 180 Main, 45 pilot, needle in 5th position from top, put a new plug in, took a half hour ride, then killed it at full throttle, to me the ground strap looks lean, but the base ring looks rich, what am I looking at here.

 

[Mike-AK]

How's it run? Is it blubbery? Does it pop on deceleration?

 

[blueknob]

it seems to have a little more snap, yes there's some pops on decel, but i assumed that some popping was normal with an open muffler, when you let off the gas at a high rpm, it's gonna lean out

 

[Mike-AK]

The plug looks a little bit rich. The ring up to the first thread should be dry and dark grey. If it runs good I'd leave it as is.

 

[Fast1]

I've never been a proponent of plug chops on modern day 4 strokes especially with all the additives in fuel.

What did the plug look like prior to the jetting and exhaust change?

How did the jet kit change your previous set up? main, needle, clip positions, pilot?

 

[blueknob]

the original plug looked normal to me but it had a summer of riding on it, it's hard to judge a new plug from a half hour ride, the original set up was 172 main, 50 pilot, needle 4th position from top, the bike is harder to start now when cold, but it seems to have more power across the whole rpm range, definitely more snap off the bottom, i just did the cam chain, adj valves, and new muff, and jets so i'm sure all contribute to the boost, i just didn't want to be to lean and burn it down, do these carbs have a starter jet, i read somewhere about hard starting and changing this jet.

 

[Big Timmy]

How's it run? Is it blubbery? Does it pop on deceleration?

Mike,
I like that word "Blubbery" where did you here that 1 ? Was it watching "Timmy on Southpark' up there in Alaska during those long winter nights?

Maybe that's just a common way to say the word "Fat" or "Rich", up there in Alaska, with all the Whales and Seal "Blubber' on the menu.

Thats what it means down here in the lower 48, but without the "whales and seals". LOL!!

 

[Mike-AK]

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xswRGUZrrG8

 

[Big Timmy]

Thats what I figured! You must have lots of time on your hands. O.k. I'll quit "blubbering now" I just left the shooting range with my buddy and we are going to go for a little ride now. You can keep watching southpark. Have a good one.

Oh Yaa, The cartoon there? I can't figure out if you are you laughing at me or with me?

Its a bit windy today but it was up to 80 degrees on Wed, Thurs, and Friday,the last few days and that was overcast! We got a little sprinkle last night. Perfect. See Yaa.

 

[Zomby woof]

I've never been a proponent of plug chops on modern day 4 strokes especially with all the additives in fuel.

These are words of wisdom. Reading plugs these days is pretty much a waste of time.
What I've learned from using wide band setups on my race cars, is when you think you're right on, based on the nice tan/light brown colour, you're actually quite rich.
Nobody in the automotive world reads plugs anymore for fueling, only timing.

 

[Fast1]

the original plug looked normal to me but it had a summer of riding on it, it's hard to judge a new plug from a half hour ride, the original set up was 172 main, 50 pilot, needle 4th position from top, the bike is harder to start now when cold, but it seems to have more power across the whole rpm range, definitely more snap off the bottom, i just did the cam chain, adj valves, and new muff, and jets so i'm sure all contribute to the boost, i just didn't want to be to lean and burn it down, do these carbs have a starter jet, i read somewhere about hard starting and changing this jet.

Wondering why you went to a leaner pilot jet? 50 to a 45 after the freer flowing exhaust? Could the hard starting be associated with the leaner pilot? I'd throw the 50 in and see if you notice a difference without changing anything else.

Did the JD jet kit come with any recommended settings?


Some info here for you

http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html

 

[blueknob]

went with a 45 pilot cause that's what came in the jd kit, installed the jet kit following detailed instructions that came with the kit. i can turn my fuel screw in all the way and the bike still idles decent, which tells me i need a leaner pilot, i contacted jd, he told me to set it at 1 1/4 turns out and it would be fine. didn't know plugs weren't read any more, guess i'll just run it.

 

[ray_ray]

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/internet_articles/Spark Plug Reading.htm

 

[Mike-AK]

Thats what I figured! You must have lots of time on your hands. O.k. I'll quit "blubbering now" I just left the shooting range with my buddy and we are going to go for a little ride now. You can keep watching southpark.

Nahhh...I'm gonna stay home and surf the web for pictures of muktuk. I don't watch "South Park." "Blubbering" is a common term for a rich running engine

 

[Big Timmy]

LOL. Oh, I thought maybe you were reading my posts on AvGas where I had just used that term. I'm an old fart and didn't realize it was such a common word. I didn't realize you would have to use the internet to find Muktuk, it being so common up there. I wish I could put together a ride sometime and visit up there. Maybe when I retire we could do some Alaska riding and we could chew the fat!

 

[Fast1]

The Pilot Circuit, Tuning from Idle to ¼ Throttle -You can use the air screw to help determine if your pilot jet is appropriately sized. Take your bike for a short ride letting the engine come up to normal operating temperature. With the engine stopped, transmission in neutral and the bike on its stand turn the air screw clockwise until it just seats, gentle now it’s delicate and you don’t need to torque it down just gently seat it. Now turn the air screw a quarter of a turn out so the engine will fire and start it. Slowly turn the air screw counter clockwise ( out ) until the point where the engine just reaches the maximum obtainable rpm and continuing to turn the air screw beyond this point wont increase the engine speed (rpms) any further. I find it’s easier to hear the rpm increasing if you set the idle at its lowest possible position without the engine stalling. You’ll want to repeat this procedure a couple times until you’re confident that you’ve found the right spot and that the result is reproducible. When you’re comfortable count the number of turns ( 360° revolutions ) you’ve backed the air screw out to reach this point. The normal operating range is between 1 and 1.5 turns out so if you find the ideal setting is less that 0.75 turns out consider installing the next richer pilot jet (larger number ). If you find the ideal setting is more than 2 turns out consider installing the next leaner pilot jet ( smaller number ).Once you're comfortable you have an appropriate pilot jet installed you want to fine turn the circuit using the air screw. Starting with the air screw 0.5 turns out adjust the screw an 1/8 of a turn at a time until you’ve obtained the best possible throttle response between idle and 1/4 throttle. Continue to adjust the air screw until the engine’s throttle response off idle is clean with no hesitation or bogging. You can test the final results using the same method as you did for checking the jet needle this time riding in 2nd or 3rd gear at 1/4 throttle. Remember this is only a ball park indicator your goal here is to obtain the best possible throttle response not a perfect plug reading.

 

[blueknob]

Setting the fuel screw mixture-
Try adjusting with the motor fully hot, and turning the fuel screw inwards until the idle slows or runs rough, then turn outwards 1 1/4 turns from this position. For example, if the idle slows or runs rough at 1/2 turn, then set the fuel screw to 1 3/4 turns out (1/2 + 1 1/4 = 1 3/4).
What are some indications of a rich pilot jet and/or screw setting?

• If your air screw is out further than 3 turns, you need a leaner pilot.
• If your fuel screw is in further than 1 turn, you need a leaner pilot.
• Off idle heavy feel or sputter.
• Revving the engine in neutral will result in RPM dip below idle RPM, RPM’s will drop quickly.
• Turning the fuel screw all the way in will not stall the engine.

How do you properly adjust a pilot air/fuel screw?

The proper way to tune a fuel/air screw is to make adjustments on a fully warmed up engine and at LOW RPM. Lightly seat the fuel/air screw and set to factory settings as a baseline. With engine running at low RPM, turn the screw in clockwise until the engine begins to stumble, then turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine stumbles, noting how many turns in/out both occurred. Now, adjust between these two settings to achieve highest RPM and smoothest running engine. Reset idle to recommended settings and test ride motorcycle. If engine bogs or hesitates during acceleration, richen idle screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Rev engine in neutral and note how RPM’s return to idle. If RPM’s hang, richen the mix. If they dip below idle, lean the mix.

these are are the methods i used, when i tried turning screw in, the engine never stumbled

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

A 4 stroke has a FUEL Screw.
A 2 stroke has an AIR Screw.

Turning in a fuel screw- leans. Turning in an air screw enrichens.

Seems mixing of the term may inverse interpretation.