• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

Such a shame this keeps going on, but I imagine it will never be fixed until they redesign the starting system.

Before you replace the starter, you might check the starter relay. Mine went bad on my 2010 and would just click. It appeared to be good when subjected to a tester, but was in fact bad. Try the old touching the jumper cable directly to the starter. You only have to touch it not actually clip it on...if it turns over then i'd look at that starter relay. If you don't like sparks, then make a friend do it. :)

6 hours isn't much, but who knows why these things go bad. I had one suddenly go out on my old KTM too.
 
Such a shame this keeps going on, but I imagine it will never be fixed until they redesign the starting system.

Before you replace the starter, you might check the starter relay. Mine went bad on my 2010 and would just click. It appeared to be good when subjected to a tester, but was in fact bad. Try the old touching the jumper cable directly to the starter. You only have to touch it not actually clip it on...if it turns over then i'd look at that starter relay. If you don't like sparks, then make a friend do it. :)

6 hours isn't much, but who knows why these things go bad. I had one suddenly go out on my old KTM too.

Please explain this. You mean unhook one of the leads on the battery and hook it directly to the starter? than if is starts that way than it is the relay.
 
No, use a battery charger like a battery tender. Ground the negative and then briefly touch the positive to the terminal on the starter. It should spin if it is good. That at least eliminates the starter motor being faulty.
 
No, use a battery charger like a battery tender. Ground the negative and then briefly touch the positive to the terminal on the starter. It should spin if it is good. That at least eliminates the starter motor being faulty.

We have tried that already. I must have misunderstood your post. sorry.
 
Today in Ballinger Canyon on some tight sandy steep singletrack stalled once with the fan running. Starter worked for a bit but would not start. Even kickstarting didn't work. Then tried the starter button and just clicked. I was in a precarious spot and didn't want to tip over so backed her down to a spot I could get the bike turned around and got it bump started. A few miles later had the same issue. Bump start. Said to myself it's too damn hot and that's it for todays ride. Hope Husky has a solution. My warranty is up May 18th ;-/

Update... Dropped the bike off and it is on the list for starter recall so a week for the parts to come in.
 
Is there a way to know if you're starter has updated parts? No trouble with mine yet but...... And is it a recall or warranty?
 
Guess what after approx 300km two rides the problem has come back to haunt me seems like a temporary fix - I was also told by Husky in Australia that the hardening process had been improved and the new worm and gear would fix it - but the problem has come back - the starter now jams like previous and the voltage drop at the battery is quite high (8v) when you hit the button - hit the button again and away she goes - far too much load. I will be intouch wih my dealer tomorrow and i am extremely frustrated.:confused: I need the bike this weekend so kick start here we come so i dont do any further damage to the starter motor and battery. I will be copping alot of shit from mates on there bergs.
Husky what is going on?

I haven't replaced anything on my '10 TE 250 but you described exactly what happened to me two days ago and at the gas station this morning. First time I hit the button just turned a bit like a low batt issue, second time fired right up. Happened when she was hot and this morning after only five minutes of riding. I checked the battery after the first time it happened and all was well. I just checked the valves around 6 hrs (ride time) ago and they were perfectly in spec. I'm off to the mountains in Central Java in two days and just hope it was a fluke. There are some damn steep climbs I don't want to be trying to kickstart on.
 
If your bike has the same issue and you keep hitting the button you will damage the battery and the starter motor - the problemm seems to be the starter worm gears and the starter clutch bearing replace all three parts i replaced two batteries and one starter motor before realisign the real cause - the jamming problem will over load the starter motor and battery so be carefull.
 
I received a call from my dealer over the weekend and they asked me to bring my bike in for a starter replacement under warranty. I haven't had any issues with my 2013 TE310R to date but I only have 300 miles logged on it so far.
i cant beleive the 13 model has an issue but if so make sure they replace three parts the worm set and most important the clutch bearing
 
According to my dealer some of the 2013 models received the starter upgrades while others did not (tracked by VIN number). Unfortunately mine had to make the trip back to the dealer for the upgrade. They replaced the worm gear and the flywheel gear under warranty.
 
My 2013 txc will not start with starter. 6 hours. I have not talked to my dealer. Piece of S%%% starter system for sure. I bought the bike 1 week before the buyout was announced. It then sat in the basement for 6 weeks waiting for the snow to clear. Wish I waited to spring to buy a new bike.

If I find that it starts well with the kick starter maybe I pull the whole starter system off. I have a rekluse in it.

I have not had time to mess with it, just riding and loving my GG300


ED
 
Two issues at work here:

1. The design of the starter system is marginal to begin with. The old starter drive was splined to the crank in the 2009 and earlier bikes...very robust. The x-light has the starter sprag behind "a run of the mill 2 stroke type flywheel"...barely adequate. If the sprag does not lock up or the gears wear out, then the flywheel key shears causing advanced IGN timing.

2. The starter is made in China and agian is barely large enough to start the bike when it is new.

My 2010 TE250 is working fine after replacing everything and lapping and loctiting the flywheel.
I am sorry to see the same problems into 2013 but given the design there is not much they can do. I do remember hearing that the crank and flywheel were upsized in 2013....I would have hoped the problems would be gone by now.
 
Still waiting to hear from the dealer this is interfering with my ride calendar this season so i am not impressed.
 
I am also not super impressed. As expected I need to do the suspension before I pass judgement on the bike, but I am learry of putting another 700 bucks into it that I will not get back. An electric start bike that wont start with a resale 50% of what it was 6 weeks ago new. I am no stranger to resale issuies with a garage full of GASGAS bikes but geez, My wife might really kill me this time,

Anyone have input if this is an easy kickstart only bike?

Ed
 
Having quite a high seat as well as the kick start lever being in a high positioni t is quite awkward to kick start especially on the trail - lean against a tree look for level ground - awkward
 
Not worried about the awkwardness of the kickstarter, I can just about flat foot the bike, I just need more time on the bike to see if it starts well hot or it can sometimes resembles starting a carbed 4stroke hot.

Ed
 
I am also not super impressed. As expected I need to do the suspension before I pass judgement on the bike, but I am learry of putting another 700 bucks into it that I will not get back. An electric start bike that wont start with a resale 50% of what it was 6 weeks ago new. I am no stranger to resale issuies with a garage full of GASGAS bikes but geez, My wife might really kill me this time,

Anyone have input if this is an easy kickstart only bike?

Ed

I spent about 3/4 of last season kick starting mine because it wouldn't electric start. Usually a first-kick bike when warm and the valves are in spec. I do one slow push through then bring it back to TDC and make a swift kick. Of course, mines a 2010. I'm short, so i understand the awkward kicking, but I have my seat cut and usually try to find something to put my left foot on (not always an option! haha).
 
Mine always started easy on the kick but the kickstart is hi and difficult as was noted above.

I guess you could just remove the starter and grears and make it a kick only bike.

Tthe TC250 starter hole plug will fit right in.
 
According to the mechanic the problem with the bike this time is too much valve clearance one of the exhaust valves actuates the auto decompressor. (supposedlly not the starter gears or sprag clutch) Valve clearances normally decrease so this seems a bit strange to me the only explaination from the mechanic is carbon build up possibly from running too rich this may of beeen caused by the 4hole injector which i replaced recently with the 12 hole injector and race ecu. Picking the bike up this morning fingers crossed.
 
According to the mechanic the problem with the bike this time is too much valve clearance one of the exhaust valves actuates the auto decompressor. (supposedlly not the starter gears or sprag clutch) Valve clearances normally decrease so this seems a bit strange to me the only explaination from the mechanic is carbon build up possibly from running too rich this may of beeen caused by the 4hole injector which i replaced recently with the 12 hole injector and race ecu. Picking the bike up this morning fingers crossed.

Let us know how it works out for you =)
 
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