TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

[MikeB]

OK - from what I've read on this forum there is a temperature switch in the cooling system which will shut the fuel pump off if things get too warm. I've had it kick out when running my TXC on the stand on a 100 degree day for 5 minutes or so. When things cool down a bit the fuel pump will run again - this is why I asked if the fuel pump ran when the on/off switch was cycled after the bike died. I remember reading that the switch could be bypassed but the bike would run crappy.

And - since the bike seemed to e-start fine after changing the ring gear I'd wonder if you removed and reinstalled any wires (I'd think you probably did). If so, do you think it's possible that you resolved a loose connection by accident? Is it possible that one of the wires has a bad connection at a connector? That's why I was curious what voltage you measured at the starter when it didn't want to e-start.

Finally - If it was my bike I'd be a little worried that running twice the amps thru the starter when it was not turning easliy might damage it.

 

[Tessier]

Dropped mine of at the dealer today 2weeks out of warranty hopefully they can do something. Otherwise I'll end up tearing it apart myself.

 

[RailwayRog]

Keep us posted, I'll let you know if i get any response with my letter.

 

[dratharr]

Keep us posted, I'll let you know if i get any response with my letter.

Keep us posted, I'll let you know if i get any response with my letter.

Hi,
New to the forum and also new owner of a 2012 TE310, that also does not start reliably. It also seems to flame out or stall at the strangest times. I have had the power up kit installed, it has not been hooked up to the Ibeat system. It handles wickedly well, and the suspension is way better than the 2012 KTM it replaced, but it doesn't start all the time, voltage is good at the battery, connections have all been removed cleaned and reinstalled with dielectric lube. I was thinking it might be the handle bar switch but yesterday it got hot again mostly because we have had three solid weeks of 100 degree plus temps, and it wouldn't start. Most of the time it starts great cold but once it gets hot its like it can't overcome the compression stroke. The nearest dealer is well over 300mi. away so I am hoping I can get this bike figured out. I have the 12 hole injector and ecu upgrade on order, and I am hoping it will clean up the stalling issues. Its really weird the other day it stalled in fourth gear almost pinned going through some deep sand whoops. Don't get me wrong I love the bike but it really should run much cleaner and start better right out of the box.

 

[ray_ray]

Hi,
New to the forum and also new owner of a 2012 TE310, that also does not start reliably. It also seems to flame out or stall at the strangest times. I have had the power up kit installed, it has not been hooked up to the Ibeat system. It handles wickedly well, and the suspension is way better than the 2012 KTM it replaced, but it doesn't start all the time, voltage is good at the battery, connections have all been removed cleaned and reinstalled with dielectric lube. I was thinking it might be the handle bar switch but yesterday it got hot again mostly because we have had three solid weeks of 100 degree plus temps, and it wouldn't start. Most of the time it starts great cold but once it gets hot its like it can't overcome the compression stroke. The nearest dealer is well over 300mi. away so I am hoping I can get this bike figured out. I have the 12 hole injector and ecu upgrade on order, and I am hoping it will clean up the stalling issues. Its really weird the other day it stalled in fourth gear almost pinned going through some deep sand whoops. Don't get me wrong I love the bike but it really should run much cleaner and start better right out of the box.

What RPM did the bike stall at? <> 9K? Or are you 4 stroking the 4stroke?

I still have a carb so 100% clueless on the issue but the suggestion below looks an easy one to try for a workaround till a real fix is found ...

Just throwing this out there, for consideration by anyone having problems with their bike overcoming the compression stroke:
When my 450 started having problems getting past the compression stroke, I tried a new spring in the ADC, and tore apart the starter. Nothing really helped. What I do now, is hold the manual compression release in as I hit the starter button, then release after 1-2 engine turns. With kinetic motion in place, the starter can then overcome the compression stroke and start. I've been doing this for about 3000 miles/6 months now with no adverse effects.

 

[Phoenix]

What RPM did the bike stall at? <> 9K? Or are you 4 stroking the 4stroke?

I still have a carb so 100% clueless on the issue but the suggestion below looks an easy one to try for a workaround till a real fix is found ...

No compression release lever on the X-Lite.

 

[ray_ray]

No compression release lever on the X-Lite.

Thanks for refreshing my memory ... And back to the valves ....

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

OK - from what I've read on this forum there is a temperature switch in the cooling system which will shut the fuel pump off if things get too warm. I've had it kick out when running my TXC on the stand on a 100 degree day for 5 minutes or so. When things cool down a bit the fuel pump will run again - this is why I asked if the fuel pump ran when the on/off switch was cycled after the bike died. I remember reading that the switch could be bypassed but the bike would run crappy.

Finally - If it was my bike I'd be a little worried that running twice the amps thru the starter when it was not turning easliy might damage it.

Mike- The coolant temp sensor- does not disable anything- it is a variable resister that gives readings to the ECU to indicate temps: for fueling and to turn off and on the fan. If you read that part of its job is to shut down the fuel pump when the bike is hot- you were missled. Heat can negatively effect the bike in unintended ways and cause symptoms. If your fuel pump does not prime or run when it is supposed to its because of a problem: ecu, right hand switch,keyed ignition (if you have one), fuse, relay, or the pump itself.

Two MC batteries in paralell wouldn't cause a problem- it would just provide the amps required (as rlittle said)... Think of a MC battery that has the capability of providing 130 amps versus 100 amps the 130 and the 100amp will provide what the source needs up till it doesn't have any more to give. Think of a low amp led blinker- hooked up to a 130 amp mc battery and a 100 amp battery. The amperage draw would be the same, resulting in the same brightness. Ok? But if you provide a heavy load on the motor and then provide all the amps it can take you can generate heat and burn up the motor- but as long as he didn't apply power to it for extended periods of time he should be good. Simular to holding the starter On for 5 minutes till the battery drops (burning it up).

I've been told that if I decrease my (ADC side) exhaust valve gap from .009 (presently) to .006 this will allow more compression out of the cylinder during starting.

Yes, that's where I'd start resolving the ADC TDC issues. You will notice the ADC becoming less effective at .009". From there its whether the ADC is doing what its "supposed to"

I hope these issues get worked out- sounds like there are many issues that are contribuing to the problem and are slightly different yet similar on many bikes- which complecates resolving the issues. Good luck guys- stay on it!

 

[motobone]

I'd like to add my problem bike to the list as well.

I'm having the exact same problem with my 2012 TE310. The bike is 6 months old with less than 50 hours and about 700 miles. The valves were checked at 40 hours and where in spec The bike is powered up and has the TXC ECU and 12 port injector. The ECU and injected helped the stalling, but it did not eliminate altogether. At least it's more manageable now. I'll probably work my way up to a JD tuner soon. Anyways this bike has never missed a beat. Once it rides, it fly’s.

My problem started about 6 hours ago. The bike fires right up when cold, like it should. After about 5-10 minutes, mind you it's close to 100 degrees right now, it will no longer E-start. It will kick start, but it requires a few kicks sometimes, sometimes it will start on the first kick. About half of the time when I kick the bike, the starter is still engaged. So, I'm kicking over the engine and the starter motor. This does not prevent the bike from starting, though. It fires right up. Also, I’ve noticed that if I stall out going down a hill, I can use the E-start, but not when the bike is standing still. So, I've been tapping the E-atart when I kicj and it seems to start the first or second kick without fail, but that's not how my 2012 bike should behave. My bike is at the dealer right now getting this checked out while it's still under warranty. I have not heard back from them, but I will post the results when I do.

 

[Phoenix]

About half of the time when I kick the bike, the starter is still engaged. So, I'm kicking over the engine and the starter motor.

Come to think of it, I've had that happen once or twice as well when kicking. You can hear that strange noise of the starter turning and there is extra drag on the kickstarter.

As for kicking and estarting at the same time, I've been told not to do that due to the worm gear design. I guess some guy on here actually had the worm gear shoot out of the case.

I personally think its just an unreliable design for estart on these bikes. I'm no expert, but I have had three electric start bikes (TXC 450, CRF 250X and KTM 250XCFW) and all three have never skipped a beat on estarting. They have the motor directly turning a gear in the case not the worm gear. Is the worm gear the source of the woes?

 

[motobone]

Good to know about kicking and Estarting at the same time.

I just spoke with my dealer and a new starter motor is on order.

 

[Tessier]

It sounds to me like there is a bunch of different issues going on here. with several different people's bikes. My bike has about 700 miles on it and is 6.5 months old. It will no longer start with the E-Start regardless of whether it's hot or cold. It will start with the kick starter but it's a bitch to get it started. It will bump start but only shutting it off on down hill's isn't exactly particle. The closest dealer is 80 miles away but I figured I'd give it a shot since I am so close to being under warranty and they were willing to ask the rep to cover it. Either way the felt worst case it would be 1 hour to diagnose it and that was all i'd have to pay worst case.

 

[dratharr]

What RPM did the bike stall at? <> 9K? Or are you 4 stroking the 4stroke?

I still have a carb so 100% clueless on the issue but the suggestion below looks an easy one to try for a workaround till a real fix is found ...

I am not sure what RPM I was running but it is a section on my home track that I ride at least 2-3 times a week. I have ridden it on all kinds of bikes for years, and I have never stalled a bike on it. There are a couple of really nice sand berms and then a long whooped out straight that you can really carry some good speed on, I have never stalled a bike riding it, but this one did. A couple of weeks ago I was riding it up in the hills going up a long rocky uphill section, third gear weight back I have ridden that section a dozen times or better and it stalled there too, my buddy almost rear ended me, he was like what the heck happened! I checked the valves at 14hrs thinking that might have been my starting problem but they were spot on, the plug was just as white as can be though and the bike runs like a lean bike, pops on decal, and just generally feels really poppy on top, and rough on the bottom. I am hoping the injector clears that up. I am thinking about pulling the fuel pump/filter and seeing if it is clogged, my Husabergs filter was pretty clogged up at 15hrs with residue from the tank molding process, so maybe that is a factor too. I don't know what to think about the starter, I might get a Lithium battery and see if that helps, honestly I don't think my dealer wants to touch it I have been on the phone with him several times and he just keeps giving me the run around. I will have to drive 4 plus hours to get there then he said I would have to leave it with him a week or so just to get it tuned on the Ibeat program because he hasn't had a chance to mess with it yet! They sold me the wrong oil filters with the bike when I bought it, told me they put the put the un-resrictive air filter cage in it, but they didn't. Then I tried to discuss a replacement rear sprocket with there parts guy and he didn't even understand that a larger rear sprocket gives the rider a lower final gear ratio, when I called him out on it he said, " I have to be honest with you I am just talking out of my ass"! I should have the Injector and ECU next week and I am hoping it will clean up the way the bike runs because the bike really handles well. I just love the ergos of it and honestly it just feels great, fits me really well. I suppose the new bike 2013 with the Red Head and updated FI system will totally fix all of the problems with the previous model! Thats the kind of luck I usually have.

 

[RailwayRog]

Time to tighten the ADC valve clearance.
Someone here did a nice write up with photos on adjusting and changing valve shims, I didn't watch the thread and now I can't find it.
Anyone remember this thread?

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

I am not sure what RPM I was running but it is a section on my home track that I ride at least 2-3 times a week. I have ridden it on all kinds of bikes for years, and I have never stalled a bike on it. There are a couple of really nice sand berms and then a long whooped out straight that you can really carry some good speed on, I have never stalled a bike riding it, but this one did. A couple of weeks ago I was riding it up in the hills going up a long rocky uphill section, third gear weight back I have ridden that section a dozen times or better and it stalled there too, my buddy almost rear ended me, he was like what the heck happened! I checked the valves at 14hrs thinking that might have been my starting problem but they were spot on, the plug was just as white as can be though and the bike runs like a lean bike, pops on decal, and just generally feels really poppy on top, and rough on the bottom. I am hoping the injector clears that up. I am thinking about pulling the fuel pump/filter and seeing if it is clogged, my Husabergs filter was pretty clogged up at 15hrs with residue from the tank molding process, so maybe that is a factor too. I don't know what to think about the starter, I might get a Lithium battery and see if that helps, honestly I don't think my dealer wants to touch it I have been on the phone with him several times and he just keeps giving me the run around. I will have to drive 4 plus hours to get there then he said I would have to leave it with him a week or so just to get it tuned on the Ibeat program because he hasn't had a chance to mess with it yet! They sold me the wrong oil filters with the bike when I bought it, told me they put the put the un-resrictive air filter cage in it, but they didn't. Then I tried to discuss a replacement rear sprocket with there parts guy and he didn't even understand that a larger rear sprocket gives the rider a lower final gear ratio, when I called him out on it he said, " I have to be honest with you I am just talking out of my ass"! I should have the Injector and ECU next week and I am hoping it will clean up the way the bike runs because the bike really handles well. I just love the ergos of it and honestly it just feels great, fits me really well. I suppose the new bike 2013 with the Red Head and updated FI system will totally fix all of the problems with the previous model! Thats the kind of luck I usually have.

Hopefully your dealer does some reading on Cafe'Husky and familiarizes themselves with the setup and feeding of their brand. "poor initial Set up" sounds like your issue. You will need to be hooked up to Ibeat to set the TPS when you get your new ECU- hopefully your dealer familiarizes themselves with Ibeat enough to do that. Its stupid easy, but so is much of everything you mentioned they know nothing about.

 

[Phoenix]

Time to tighten the ADC valve clearance.
Someone here did a nice write up with photos on adjusting and changing valve shims, I didn't watch the thread and now I can't find it.
Anyone remember this thread?

I think this is the one you're talking about...http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2010-txc-250-valve-adjustment.17188/#post-150311.

I might get a Lithium battery and see if that helps

It doesn't change anything noticeable. I bought a Shorai LFX14BS12 and it may crank ever so slightly better (or at least I convinced myself of that to justify the price), but not enough to be worth switching out. The battery is light, though. If you do buy one, BRPMoto sells them and gives a 10% discount to Cafe Husky members.

 

[RailwayRog]

That's it, Thanx Phoenix. No wonder my search turned up nothing, it's under the 250 title.
I just had another weird thing happen today, the kick starter stayed engaged to the E start (E-start motor would spin when kicking it over), had to pull the flywheel off with the ring gear stuck to it, used some beveled chisels to tap in between to separate pieces (something I not fond of doing) and man it was stuck on good and that was just from kicking it over lightly, this bike is possessed!

 

[motogo1]

Man, this just makes me sick. I have 3 Huskys, an 06 TE610 with 20,000 miles and an 09 TE310 with almost 8000 miles on it. I really LIKE these bikes. I've also got an 11 SM630. The only failure on my 310 was the cooling fan. Other than consumables, I have done NOTHING to it. I'm at the Six Days of Michigan, and I'm the only guy (so far) with a Husky here. The organizer said Husky has a moritoriam on spending (whatever that means). They might show up later. They (Husky) need to get some engineers on these X Lite issues and RESOLVE them. By the way, I encouraged RailwayRog to get that bike. Hopefully I will be comfortable in buying another Husky some day, if hopefully they are still around.

 

[RailwayRog]

Gary I didn't heed my own advice, never buy a first year model motorcycle or automobile.
Maybe Husky was afraid a bunch of us dissatisfied X-lite owners would show up or maybe there embarrassed by the amount of problems with the X-lite models.
Will see if they show up for the Quarry Run. All I can say is what a shame, they where on the right track to a great bike, that's why I gave Husky a try.
Have a great ride. Maybe I'll see you at the Somers Fun Run.

 

[dratharr]

Hopefully your dealer does some reading on Cafe'Husky and familiarizes themselves with the setup and feeding of their brand. "poor initial Set up" sounds like your issue. You will need to be hooked up to Ibeat to set the TPS when you get your new ECU- hopefully your dealer familiarizes themselves with Ibeat enough to do that. Its stupid easy, but so is much of everything you mentioned they know nothing about.

Is there any way to purchase and I Beat? I don't have a lot of confidence in my dealer at this point, and I am thinking if it isn't too expensive it might be worth it for me, considering the distance my dealer is from my front door. Plus I enjoy working on the bike.