TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

[need2boat]

Is there any better aftermarket starter motor to replace the oem undersized starter ?

Not that I know of. I just don't think there is a large enough market for someone to make them aftermarket. If you have the old one you can pull it apart. The issue I found was the plastic cone that holds the brushes is just crack to hell from the heat. it also uses a bushing on both ends rather then a bearing. The bummer is it can't be rebuilt as they don't sell parts for it. I guess if it were JUST the brushes you could solder new ones but I'm guess that plastic cap with break before the brushes go. The one I pulled out had toasted bushings and cone, the bushes looked OK.

 

[davids70]

I see.
My last starter was completely fu-ked. I'm having a look to any other husqvarna model or dirt bike (specially japanese ones) starters ... maybe some could be modified/adapted/fitted to the 310 .. ? ..

 

[need2boat]

Good luck with that. . . not saying it can't be done but it would need to fit the pinion gear drive plus the mounting holes. I'm sure it can be done but I'd guess you need to use the husky housing and since the bushing are part of it that's kind of the week point.

 

[R_Little]

No wild horse kicking here.

Both my 250 and 310 start on 1 or 2 kicks max.

Just start at the top and kick all the way down.

The whole E-start system is undersized. I've heard it said that you get about 100 starts on a new starter before it dies.

 

[need2boat]

Humm, maybe I should start counting.. . sound like the tootsie roll tootsie pop commercial from when I was a kid.. . how starts does it take to kill a husky starter. 1.. .2. . 3.. 4. .

 

[MorganD]

I must be doing something right or getting good starters.

My first TE 250 2010 I had for 120 hrs thats at least 600 e-starts
My second TE 250 2010 I just changed the engine and had it for 180hrs, thats at least 900 e-starts.
My TE 310r only have 40 hrs on it so thats about 200 e-starts.

 

[need2boat]

I think climate and weather also plays a part. I'm in the North East AKA rust belt and were hard on electronics and just about all metals. The North West has much drier conditions and it's own issues. Add to that how you use the bike. I'm sure given the right conditions the starters are fine. In Aug when it's 100+ with 90% humidity and you've been ridding in tight woods for a few hours is a real proving ground depending on the amounts of start you need. I'm sure pros hardly ever stall but newer riders do more often and therefore more likely to have issues...

 

[davids70]

No wild horse kicking here.

I was being sarcastic about that .. Yeah, kick starting is fine, thanks god. When cold engine I need 3 or 4 kicks .. when hot, one and play.

The whole E-start system is undersized.

Indeed. Its an undersized pizza with many ingredients.

I think climate and weather also plays a part. I'm sure pros hardly ever stall but newer riders do more often and therefore more likely to have issues...

Agree.

This bike makes you a better rider.

need2boat, are you using SS filter + 0w40 as well ?

 

[need2boat]

need2boat, are you using SS filter + 0w40 as well ?

Yes I've been using the oil for about 30 hour and the filter for the last 10 or so. It takes a bit more time to clean the filter then the throw-a-ways but so far so good. I also added a motion pro magnet ring that's on the "outside" end of the filter.

I think I read it here someplace. . . When cleaning I used a dowel I stick into the filter end like a corn dog , spray with carb cleaner then soap and water, then dry it with compressor.

The other tip I read was to carefully pull the rubber seal on the filter and flip around as it's tapered and fits better other way round.

 

[brad_TE310r]

my 310R has got massive issues with the starter, with less than 500K on it. the flywheel was just replaced under warranty, however the dealer has told me it also needs a gear &worm drive shaft kit (#8539725) - but that part is on back order, and apparently its out of stock world wide and has been for some time. they are blaming the change over from Italy to Austria, they reckon there isn't even an ETA on when its going to be in.
anyone help with this? im happy to buy it and freight it here to Australia myself rather than wait for the warranty parts, but I just need to get my hands on the part so I can ride the bike without having to kick the shit out of it every time I go out.

 

[need2boat]

I would would want to inspect it before replacing. I pulled mine and replaced but the truth is after closer inspection and cleaning I didn't think it was as bad as the sprang.

I know a few months back Bob Wallace owner of Central Jersey Cycle had a few sets in stock. He's in NJ and the number is (732) 443-4465 you can also look up on the web. I don't know if he would send out of the US. I also know Hall's Cycles pop up a lot on this list as a very friendly shop so maybe see if they have them in stock.

I ship overseas for my ebay store so if you find one here in the US and they won't send to you. feel free to PM me. I'd guess you're looking at 40.00 US to ship that flat rate USPS

Joe

 

[brad_TE310r]

that's really nice of you - but funny enough the parts arrived a couple of days after I had my rant on here!

 

[davids70]

Joe,

I was reading your great thread : http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/hot-start-issues-where-to-start-2012-txc310.43689/page-2

So you are using green 609 loctite on flywheel/rotor shaft:



and nut (10):




Is that right ?

 

[need2boat]

Thanks Davis, I can't take all the credit. It's mostly good info collected from others already on the list. The 609 should not be put on the threads. It's just for the tapered shaft and designed to fill the gap. You can use regular blue on the threads. You need to give the 609 a few hours, or better yet overnight before putting oil in.

 

[Fi5h]

Hello All,

I have been reading everything here as I was having this issue - Everything has helped up to this point but I will provide the cheapest fixes before ordering starter motors, upgraded gears etc

I have since solved this - bike starts with E-Start Hot or Cold, 1 Kick with kick starter Hot or Cold -

Ok I'm going to give you the fixes that solved both E-Start and Hard to start when Hot (With E-Start and Kick Start)


1. Run the bike and make sure your thermal fans kick over and it doesn't overboil and overflows - This will determine that both you Coolant Temp Sensor and Thermal Fan Switch are working and that you are using good coolant (Engine Ice is what I use) - if the fans don't kick over change both switches
note: I eliminated the thermostat as I don't road ride.

2. Check your Valve Clearance are in spec especially your Auto Decomp valve (Very import your clearance for the auto decomp is in spec I put a bigger shim it to reduce the clearance from OEM spec mines is at .18 instead of .20 metric scale)

3. While your there - Take the Exhaust Cams out and have a look at your tension spring if its the straight type undo the bolt and put a bend in it (you will see what I'm talking about in this link - http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/exhaust-cam-spring.17392/) - this will cause the lever to flick back quicker and stronger - this eliminates the Hot start Issue both Kicking and E-Start (Less drag on the Starter motor when hot)

4. Pull your starter Motor out and Bench test it to make sure it turns over (If it doesn't, pull it apart and using a brush, steel wool (used to clean up the copper bits) and degreaser clean the shit out of it) My Starter motor did not turn over when I benched tested it and after cleaning it worked again. P.S if you are going to pull the starter motor apart make sure you take note of the magnet body's position if you put it on the wrong way it will spin in reverse, also let it dry up completely before reassembly

5. Open up your e starter switch and make sure the contact points are clean

6. Put it all back together

7. Test Battery to make sure you get 13v +

Once I did all this my E-Start Worked Cold and Hot, Kick Start requires 1 Kick, Cold and Hot - I know its fkn frustrating but try this out and see how you go - if you need help or have any questions I will gladly answer them all!

P.S - I wanted to share this with you guys as your info is what helped me come up with this solution - save yourself buying a new starter motor, upgraded gears etc and try this before hand

I have a massive ride this Sunday and will update you on how I go but from rigorous testing I'm confident that this is it fingers crossed.

Good Luck!

 

[Fi5h]

Update - Bike takes a little longer to warm up due to eliminating the thermostat - other then that she is beautiful!

 

[Michael Collins]

I also believe the exhaust valve/decompressor has been/is the cause for many of these bikes and without Tech Bulletins sent to owners of record it's a nightmare for owners. It would have been really simple to execute. Write up new clearance spec and save as PDF. Email or snail mail PDF to all dealers and owners of record world wide. Instruct to insert in their owners manual replacing the stock spec. Problem solved for many including me. If not for a wink and a nod from Tinken about this my bike would have been tossed from the second story window.

Hi There
do you know if theres a fix for the husky 310r starter problem

 

[Johnrg]

Yes.... It is more a combination of things which contribute to the problem. 1) Make sure you have the better hardened gears for the starter either through warranty or your bike may have come with them if a later '13. 2) Make sure the decompressor is half way working so that your kick start doesn't feel seized up. This is when if you lay on the start button you can fry the starter. Bump start, or nudge the bike to move the piston. Then try starting again or kicking. If this occurs go to a tighter associated valve shim. It will be tight end of spec or maybe tighter. 3) Get a better LI battery. The extra power will help the little starter to spin better and will lessen the damaging effects of the lead acid battery and lugging the starter, even if it does click on occasion. If the starter clicks be light on the button. I would just stab it to goose it over TDC if sticky. After that the better battery will spin it quick enough to overcome the tight or non functioning decomp. Be gentle with it, bump start, kick, etc... But if really jammed up do the valve adjustment and get the battery. So many folks used to complain about this but seemingly the above stuff seems to be working for many. Working for me as I am up at Mt. Shasta with my bike but it's too stinking hot to ride ;-/

 

[Trenchcoat85]

...Working for me as I am up at Mt. Shasta with my bike but it's too stinking hot to ride ;-/

Johnrg-
I live in Mount Shasta. I'm picking my kid up... and then going for a ride up Rainbow ridge. cm or text at 530.643-xxxx [sent pm] if you wanna tag along. 1 hour; ~15miles of epic single track.
later,
scott

edit: 7:10pm leaving in 10 min.
ps- you sure your not at Lake Shasta/Chappie-Shasta (60 miles south of Mount Shasta; 15° warmer. Because it's nice here)?

 

[Johnrg]

Scott, Yes I am in Redding. Damn... Hot as hell down here. I think I was delirious when I posted before dinner. I could have used a ride and figured some nice stuff up around Mt Shasta. I will be heading up in the am and probably grab something at that little health food market. Either I hang around for a really hot day or head up to Bend as looks like cooler weather up there... as well as some rain. I got up at 3 am so dragging a bit. Thanks for the offer and quick post.