TE 250/310 xlite starter issues...

[Trenchcoat85]

i presume the timing must be OK as the bike when riding feels absolutely normal... i presume if the timing was out i would "feel" the bike being a little different...?

probably. there have been reports of valve timing being off by one tooth, which runs okay but starts hard and has an occasional hiccup.

maybe i need to up the idle speed? to help stop that "blip" back fire? if i accelerate normally when taking off, it never stalls or flames out, runs fine...

yes- these short stroke engines (with little flywheel effect) are meant to idle high- 2000+ rpms. yet lotsa people feel the need to bring the idle down to long stroke levels for whatever reason; tradition maybe.

 

[rgormley]

Thanks for the reply's and information...
I have all my bits on order... i should see them mid week... so i`ll be able to ride this weekend.

small other question. i noted on the fish parts that the exhaust manifold to head shows a gasket.... for the life of me owning this bike i have never seen or used one, i just stick the pipe up to the head and tighten the 2 x 8mm bolts... plus the 2 x springs

i have order the gasket, is it a copper compression type?, maybe i will get better performance??.... was my exhaust always leaking around the head?
will see if it make a difference? smoother operation?

cheers....

https://www.firstclassmotorcycles.c...c-txc-250-310/exhaust-system-te-txc#ficheZone

 

[rgormley]

oh found a pic of the "cover plate" i can see my "3D" view now

 

[Trenchcoat85]

i have order the gasket, is it a copper compression type?, maybe i will get better performance??.... was my exhaust always leaking around the head?
will see if it make a difference? smoother operation?

you aren't gonna see a performance difference if you're not see streaks of exhaust on the cylinder or header. OTOH, without the gasket perhaps you were sucking in small amounts of oxygen, causing your backfire.

 

[R_Little]

you aren't gonna see a performance difference if you're not see streaks of exhaust on the cylinder or header. OTOH, without the gasket perhaps you were sucking in small amounts of oxygen, causing your backfire.

Yup!

 

[rgormley]

Yup!

what that a "yup" for the sucking in small amounts of oxygen, causing your backfire?

it would be great if it was the missing gasket that was/is causing these occasional backfires (blipping the throttle)

The bike goes hard/quick enough for me!

 

[R_Little]

what that a "yup" for the sucking in small amounts of oxygen, causing your backfire?

it would be great if it was the missing gasket that was/is causing these occasional backfires (blipping the throttle)

The bike goes hard/quick enough for me!

Yup! Air leaks in the exhaust can cause backfiring.

 

[rgormley]

ok now more questions and observations.... 2012 TE310

So I bought the header pipe gasket 8000H0015GASKET D33-D26-SP 3,2
item 25
https://www.firstclassmotorcycles.c...c-txc-250-310/exhaust-system-te-txc#ficheZone

but it`s diameter is to large WTF!!??? it wont sit in the head recess and it`s 2mm to big to centralize on the header pipe.

the part number are correct..
i measured the gasket, more like a aluminum disc? outer diam 44mm inner 37mm (3.5mm wall thickness)

so the question.... A: do i need one? B: does anybody else have them/ use them? 2012 TE310

the header pipe fits snugly into the head (pipe sits in the head recess) and is held in place via the flange plate and two 8 mm hex bolts.

 

[rgormley]

ok now more questions and observations.... 2012 TE310

So I bought the header pipe gasket 8000H0015GASKET D33-D26-SP 3,2
item 25
https://www.firstclassmotorcycles.c...c-txc-250-310/exhaust-system-te-txc#ficheZone

but it`s diameter is to large WTF!!??? it wont sit in the head recess and it`s 2mm to big to centralize on the header pipe.

the part number are correct..
i measured the gasket, more like a aluminum disc? outer diam 44mm inner 37mm (3.5mm wall thickness)

so the question.... A: do i need one? B: does anybody else have them/ use them? 2012 TE310

the header pipe fits snugly into the head (pipe sits in the head recess) and is held in place via the flange plate and two 8 mm hex bolts.

just noticed the fiche file only shows one bolt to hold the exhaust to the head.... it needs two! mistake?

 

[jetmani]

just noticed the fiche file only shows one bolt to hold the exhaust to the head.... it needs two! mistake?

Must be a mistake, my 250 has 2 bolts.

 

[rgormley]

Must be a mistake, my 250 has 2 bolts.

hey hey! are you stalking me? been riding lately? i have a fully automated "kick only" starting system installed on my bike....called well uummm....kickstart..

gave up on the electric... just to many issues...

 

[rgormley]

Must be a mistake, my 250 has 2 bolts.

do you have a gasket? or pipe goes straight to the head (flange plate plus bolts only) oh and the small right angle bracket to keep the water hose up away from the pipe...

 

[jetmani]

do you have a gasket? or pipe goes straight to the head (flange plate plus bolts only) oh and the small right angle bracket to keep the water hose up away from the pipe...

Yes but on the bike, you can buy that stuff second hand on Gumtree. Haven't been riding for about a year, too much stuff going on.

 

[R_Little]

I bet the gasket is probably there mostly to keep a vibrating steel header pipe from wearing on the aluminum head.

If the header is tight I bet it will not leak.

Better to have one though.

 

[MitchMan406]

Mine started better after I dropped the left exhaust cam to .008 from .010". Yes, 4ft ib max on those 5mm cam cap screws!

The bigger issue I had was the flywheel was shearing the key and causing the IGN timing to become too far advanced.

Both X-light motors I took apart showed the flywheel key shearing over.

With loctite on the cam cap bolts, per the manual.

 

[R_Little]

With loctite on the cam cap bolts, per the manual.

oh, really!?

I never used loctite.

 

[GreekMountains]

Just throwing this out there, for consideration by anyone having problems with their bike overcoming the compression stroke:
When my 450 started having problems getting past the compression stroke, I tried a new spring in the ADC, and tore apart the starter. Nothing really helped. What I do now, is hold the manual compression release in as I hit the starter button, then release after 1-2 engine turns. With kinetic motion in place, the starter can then overcome the compression stroke and start. I've been doing this for about 3000 miles/6 months now with no adverse effects.

Hi i know this is an OLD OLD thread but when i bought my 2008 TE450 secondhand it would start very easily(although slightly slowly on the button) without the manual de-comp.Around the time i had a valve adjustment done,it became difficult to turn over which may or may not have been co-incidental.The mechanic told me the valves needed adjustment at the time i remember clearly.It always starts but i use the manual de-comp lever.My thoughts are that the auto de-comp is worn and not working correctly or the exhaust valve had been deliberatley adjusted loose to aid starting(possibly as the previous owner was aware of the problem)
Anyway interested to know your thoughts,using the manual lever doesnt really bother me
Cheers Nick

 

[GreekMountains]

Mike- The coolant temp sensor- does not disable anything- it is a variable resister that gives readings to the ECU to indicate temps: for fueling and to turn off and on the fan. If you read that part of its job is to shut down the fuel pump when the bike is hot- you were missled. Heat can negatively effect the bike in unintended ways and cause symptoms. If your fuel pump does not prime or run when it is supposed to its because of a problem: ecu, right hand switch,keyed ignition (if you have one), fuse, relay, or the pump itself.

Two MC batteries in paralell wouldn't cause a problem- it would just provide the amps required (as rlittle said)... Think of a MC battery that has the capability of providing 130 amps versus 100 amps the 130 and the 100amp will provide what the source needs up till it doesn't have any more to give. Think of a low amp led blinker- hooked up to a 130 amp mc battery and a 100 amp battery. The amperage draw would be the same, resulting in the same brightness. Ok? But if you provide a heavy load on the motor and then provide all the amps it can take you can generate heat and burn up the motor- but as long as he didn't apply power to it for extended periods of time he should be good. Simular to holding the starter On for 5 minutes till the battery drops (burning it up).


Yes, that's where I'd start resolving the ADC TDC issues. You will notice the ADC becoming less effective at .009". From there its whether the ADC is doing what its "supposed to"

I hope these issues get worked out- sounds like there are many issues that are contribuing to the problem and are slightly different yet similar on many bikes- which complecates resolving the issues. Good luck guys- stay on it!

I know this is OLD but thanks for putting this in such a clear concise way

 

[GreekMountains]

So after talking with the dealer I am not exactly sure that Husky really know's what is wrong with these bike's either. They are going to warranty every part in the starting drive train except the battery. They are going to replace the starter, worm gear, flywheel, reduction gear, and a few other things I don't remember off the top of my head. Dealer say's it's about $700 in parts all total. I am very great full they are covering it but disappointed they aren't cover labor or the battery. Not sure that the reasoning is but I am not complaining since technically the bike is no longer under warranty but it was when this all happened. What is scary is that it sound like they are tossing the kitchen sink at fixing the problem instead of actually figure out what is going on.

OLD thread i know but its cheaper for the dealer to replace all the parts(manufacturer pays) than to change things 1 at a time (dealer gets paid lower rate for warranty work than a normal customer would pay walking through the door)