• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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TE 510 / SM conversion handling (again)

ks9mm

ks9mm

Husqvarna
AA Class
HI All, Please help...

there has been few threads on the subject already, I tried lot's of things, but at this moment, my bike's handling issue is still not resolved.

at speeds above 70mph bike begins to wobble. handlebars side to side wiggle and i have to slow down. I've been riding for 20+ years and ride at expert level at track days so I am pretty sure it's not me...

Here is the set up.

09 TE 510 with 600 miles. I am 160lbs. no steering damper.

1. 17' Stock SM wheels, ballanced with Conti SM tires. 25psi cold.
2. rear SAG set to 90mm or 3.5 inches
3. Forks are flush with top triple and kayaba lowering link removed. no difference with different fork height and with or without lowering link.
4. stock damping settings on fork and shock. tried few clicks here and there, no difference
5. stock front fender and mirrors.

I am considering steering damper, but dont really want it to mask the underlying problem... any bike should track straight..
 
hi buddy yeah i also have a 09 te 510 handles like crap also ive also tried different things i have 100mm rider sag with gear on front forks i have set to the second line mine dosnt wobble it has other issues good luck with it though ps i just think its the bike which is a shame because they look and sound like they would do 300mph on rails
 
630 SM with similar probs. The wobble varies. Used to be at around 120 kmh. Now it´s moved to 140 kmh. Have tried adjusting the front suspension. But now think it s most likely the tyres. Also depends on road surface. But the bike´s not made for chasing cafe racers on the Autobahn, so am not all that worried. As yet have done a max of 165 kmh (when there was no wobble at all!)
 
I understand your frustration, but I know the SMR models (450 and 510) are pretty stable well over 90mph. Lets look at the differences between the TE and the SMR. The first biggest diff I can think of is the triple clamp on he SMR runs much less offset. Next would be the forks, the SMR's forks are a good 1.5" lower. Lastly the rear swing arm is shorter on the SMR. Sooo long shot here, but the TE and SMR triples start with the same castings, the only difference is where the holes are drilled for the stem. It may be possible to have the TE triples machined to accept bushings that could change the offset. It would probably be easier to just buy an SMR or custom offset setup though. Having the forks shortened is pretty common, have it done at the same time as a revalve. The SMR swing arm is just barely shorter so I wouldn't think that would be the issue. Hope this helps somewhat.
 
Here is Another question... All this things like swingarm lenght and offset affect bikes handling to a degree..they affect turn ability and feel and stuff.

You take Harley with super long forks and no rear shock and it will track straight at 70mph.

I am now seriously concerned that my bike's frame is not straight. Otherwise I just don't see why it refuses to track straight.
 
Here is Another question... All this things like swingarm lenght and offset affect bikes handling to a degree..they affect turn ability and feel and stuff.

You take Harley with super long forks and no rear shock and it will track straight at 70mph.

I am now seriously concerned that my bike's frame is not straight. Otherwise I just don't see why it refuses to track straight.
 
There is always GMD computrac I guess. Did you buy the bike new, has it ever been down to your knowledge? All set-up aside I'm sure you've checked the obvious stuff (head bearings, play in wheel bearing/swingarm bearings, wheel trueness, spokes, rear wheel alignment using a laser rather than the swing arm hash marks, proper front fork/axle alignment, wheel balance, ect) What wheel/tire combo are you running, stock husky stuff? Sorry if you've been through all this already, just trying to throw out some ideas and make a happy husky rider out of you:thumbsup:
 
try moving your forks up to 3 rings showing. It'll put more weight on the front end. Worked for me.
 
Im gonna be getting FBF 15mm triples soon, so if you want my 09 SMR triples, I will make you a good deal on them.
I still think the problem is your geometry and not the bike itself.
 
I think if you take MXRider up on his awesome offer you'll have a big piece to the puzzle. From my dirt experience 2mm of offset is enough to make the difference between a stable bike that pushes in corners to a twitchy one that rails. I'm not too checked out on exactly what the offset difference between the TE and SMR are but by eye balling it, it looks like about 8mm.
 
MXrider, please keep me in mind for those Triples!!!

now an update, i decided to try one more thing and raised the forks so third line and then some is visible. (per Darksides advice) and went for the ride. my roads are anything but smooth! it's NJ for crying outloud..

Bike was rock solid at 70. and then at 75 and then at 80....and then at 85...

and than wobble started coming in approaching 90... dont know exact speed as speedo is not working and I am using small GPS...hard to see small numbers at that speed :)

so, what does that mean??? rasing the forks usually makes bike less stable, but it worked opposite way for me!! should I raise them more? more compression at the rear to keep more weight on the front? anything else? and if I put back my rear lowering link again, I am guessing I should drop forks even more..

obvioulsy next tuning step has to be at the track :)
 
You are first in line for the clamps man. Depending on how work goes this month I could have my new clamps by first week in October. I will have to get back to you on a price tho. From the research Ive done TE triples are 23mm offset and SMR offset is 15mm.
 
MXRider;119434 said:
You are first in line for the clamps man. Depending on how work goes this month I could have my new clamps by first week in October. I will have to get back to you on a price tho. From the research Ive done TE triples are 23mm offset and SMR offset is 15mm.
Click to expand...

thanks! what do you think about my last test results?
 
I honestly have no idea what that means, I would think raising the forks more would make the situation worse.
 
organ donor;119300 said:
630 SM with similar probs. The wobble varies. Used to be at around 120 kmh. Now it´s moved to 140 kmh. Have tried adjusting the front suspension. But now think it s most likely the tyres. Also depends on road surface. But the bike´s not made for chasing cafe racers on the Autobahn, so am not all that worried. As yet have done a max of 165 kmh (when there was no wobble at all!)
Click to expand...

What did you change on the bike when it moved your wobble to a highter speed?




Ks9mm,
I think you will be heading in the right direction to get MXriders clamps from him. when you moved the forks you were adjusting the trailI cant remember what an good number range is on trail, so google that, and you'll understand what happens at each end of the spectrum of trail. I need to research and review myself as I have forgot a lot of it..
 
also,
I am not trying to build ultimate supermoto racer... I just want ultimate do it all (well almost all) bike that's light and fast. that's why husky 510 was the choice.

this way I can offroad with wheel change and do trackday with sumo wheels...

now I can swap wheels and gearing under 30 minutes.
 
Make sure your steering hear bearings are not to tight or loose.

tight bearings will cause the bike to oscillate back and forth.
 
NeoGeniX;119942 said:
I've heard about these problems many times most of the time it was the tyre at fault.
Click to expand...

same problem with 3 different tire sets. and 2 wheel sets. all ballanced to perfection.


headbearing check as well.
 
its def the geometry. Theres no debate. The perfect offset for the TE to steer correctly and handle as it should would be a 0 mm offset. I was gonna go for the fbf's but the 15 mm offset will not make much difference than stock.

Im still waiting for a shop here to make me a set of 0mm clamps. I will let everyone know here when they get started.

I resolved the shaking completely with a set of bridgestone tires. Im considering putting my triples back to the 3rd notch and see if that helps steering now. I also started with conti's and they wobbled like crazy past 60 mph.

Make sure you set your sag correctly as well. with mine adjusted to my weight it ended up being a little lower to the ground in the rear which helped a bit.

chris
 
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