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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TE 630 Front fender swap to 449-511?
- Thread starter mbr440
- Start date
should, i have seen a 449 fender on a WR250. Actually look cool.
trav72
Husqvarna
AA Class
I know this is an older post but I would be interested in more detailed pics/instructions of the install.
organ donor
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Me too! (Please)
I put one on my 125 a while back. It sticks up right in front of the triple clamp pushing the headlight or in my case number plate up an inch or so. You need to address that but other than that issue it is a bolt on.
Sokin
Husqvarna
C Class
The TE 449/511 - TR 650 Terra front fender sits high in front of the lower triple clamp. Thus, it is getting in the way of the TE 630's plastic headlight casing and its mounting points. You need to move the hole casing upwards by approximately 32 mm to fit the new fender under it.
So, this is how it is done:
Step 1. Start by assembling your new fender. The TE 449/511 - TR 650 Terra front fender is a two piece assembly. The two pieces are bolted together with 6 screws for plastics. The four rearmost are longer than the two front ones. Make sure you have been given the proper screws, and that you are using the right screw for the right hole. Otherwise you will end up with a beautiful blister on your new fender as you try to screw one of the longer screws though one of the shallower front holes.
By now you may have noticed that there are two more holes left. On the TE 449/511 - TR 650 Terra these are used to bolt the two fender pieces and the bottom of the headlight plastic casing together. Since this not the case with the TE 630 just use a bolt and a nut to fill each of the gaping holes.
Step 2. Now, the models that use this type of fender have black Husqvarna logos. You need a red one though. Order the red Husqvarna logo that adorns your Husky's original fender. Remove its back protective cover and stick it to your new fender. Remove its front clear protective cover or it will not stay in place.
Step 3. Remove the front fender from your TE 630. Note that there is a double lip rubber grommet on top of each "fin" of the fender. Remove both of them. Also, note that there were four spacers placed between the front fender and the lower triple clamp. Later we will use a pair of these spacers to sandwich between them one of the rubber grommets mentioned above. The same goes for the remaining grommet. Order another four spacers from your Husqvarna dealer, you will need them later while installing your new fender in step 7.
Step 4. The plastic casing, that houses the headlight and acts as a mounting base for the digital instrument, is held in place with three bolts. Two that bolt to the front of the lower triple clamp and one at the center of the top triple clamp. Remove all of these bolts. Go to your local hardware store and buy two 16mm long coupling hex nuts, an M6 - L50 screw and a washer. Thread the 50mm long screw though the top hole of the plastic casing, thread the two coupling hex nuts through the protruding screw and finally use the washer to screw the hole assembly to the top triple clamp. Now you have the hole plastic casing sitting just in the right height for the fender to fit under it.
Step 5. Trial fit the new fender to get an idea of what goes where. By now, you must realise that you need some sort of spacer to bolt the bottom of the headlight casing to the lower triple clamp. Get yourself three short thin metal bars that will act as spacers. Make sure they are galvanised. I got a kind that had holes drilled, two of which were some 30 - 35 mm apart. Just make sure the holes are large enough to handle M6 bolts - the holes of the triple clamp are threaded for such bolts. Screw these bars on the lower triple clamp. Two of them go where the plastic headlight casing was mounted in the first place. The third is needed to get the horn up and out of harm's way.
Step 6. Now we will make those spacer-grommet-spacer fittings that I mentioned in step 3. Take a rubber grommet and place it through one of the oval holes at the bottom of the plastic headlight casing. Now sandwich the rubber grommet between two spacers, by driving their sleeves through the grommet's hole. Position the fittings behind the top hole of each of the thin metal bars. Bolt all these together using an M6 bolt and a self locking nut. Don't overtorque or you will collapse the rubber causing the spacers to come in contact. That would annul the soft mounting (vibration dumping) effect of the fitting. That fitting is also needed to move back the plastic headlight casing just enough to get it out of the way of the bars, and bring the headlight a little closer to the fender.
Yes, you could use simple washers (the same diameter as the grommet) instead of the spacers I used, but I wish you good luck trying to hold everything as you try to bolt it all together. Also, I hate trying to fish out of the bike's guts little parts that fall off as I unscrew things.
Step 7. Now that the headlight is in its final position, mount the horn on the third bar (bent it as needed) so that it does not interfere with the front fender, the back of the headlight, or anything else. Mount the new fender in the lower triple clamp using your new spacers. Adjust your headlight's light beam to shine properly, you did repositioned it quite a bit after all.
Enjoy your new fender. It offers better protection than your old one, although you still get some spray on wet conditions. But it looks so much cooler!
This is how the new top mount looks with the coupling nuts in place. (Picture rotated 90 degrees; sorry)
These are the first two bars in place. To the top right side of the bars you can see the spacers used, already mounted on the rubber grommets which already nest on their oval holes.
This is how the lower mounting points look like (Picture rotated 90 degrees; sorry)
