• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 630 radiator fan system?

mjskier

Husqvarna
AA Class
I haven't ever heard the fan come on on my new to me 630.
If I plug 12 volt directly into it, it turns, so the fan itself is OK.
Looks like the fuse that protects the circuit is common to several components that work, so that's ok.
Fan relay (I need to read up on how to test that)
It looks like iBeat will display the water temp, so I can plug that in tomorrow and check if the temp sensor works. At what temperature is the fan supposed to turn on?
Anything else I'm missing?
 
Mine only ever comes on when going below 20/30 km/h for an extended period of time.

it should turn on between 88 and 100 degrees c probably.

If it rises above 105 you'll know something's wrong
 
Same here, usually only sitting in traffic for extended periods.


Same for me with my 610.
BTW, since 2013 I use the 610 only on tracks and so, at the beginning of the season, in the previous year I removed the fan. I (unintentionally) trod on it when it was on the floor, damaging it.
I repaired the plstic frame with a solderer:
2gwfdxs.jpg

I tried it on the bike and it withstands the stress (I mean vibrations, etc.).
But I don't know whether it works. I've read that mjskier plugged 12 volt directly into it to check if it's ok. I'd like to do the same: How could I do it?
 
Nothing fancy. Being somewhat of a pack rat, I have a (growing) pile of small DC power supplies from old laptops, routers, phones...
I just found one that outputs 12 volts, and ran wires from it to the (disconnected) fan plug.

mCJAH_9-E2OW1xkfF3vnS8A.jpg


Just take 2 wires, put a couple of male terminals, plug them into the fan plug, then touch the other side of the wires to the power supply plug. Center of the power supply plug is usually power, the outside ground.

MDD_Male_Insulated_Wire_Terminals_and_Connectors.jpg_220x220.jpg
 
I've read that mjskier plugged 12 volt directly into it to check if it's ok. I'd like to do the same: How could I do it?


Connect the red wire to the "+" terminal of your battery, and the black wire to the "-" terminal.

It's easier to do safely if you have some short gator clip leads

50-set-High-quality-Dual-Crocodile-font-b-Alligator-b-font-font-b-Clips-b-font.jpg
 
I have an adjustable AC/DC adapter very similar to this:
44140b862d0384b42cf5f6df19fbffac.jpg

Mine has the same plugs and I can set both the voltage and the polarity. Can I use the plug on the bottom of the pic with gator clip leads or wires?
If I use the wrong polarity, will I ruin the fan?
 
It's a DC fan, it will just run backwards if you get the polarity switched. 18w will make it move, but won't move much air.
 
Failsafe way to check if fan is working:
1) Start bike
2) Go in house and get a beer
3) Drink beer. If this takes less than 10 minutes, open another one
4) After 15-20 minutes check bike. If not boiling over then fan is working.

Simple!
 
You know guys... I implemented the beer method.... burp... and that damned engine was frying when I returned to the garage. And so I started yelling... and then a blue alien with a strange hat told me that I had to go to the precinct... Why the hell should I trust you, alien? I said... and... and... I'm sleepy fellows, I love you, but I wanna sleep now... zzzzz
Ahahah

RDTCU said:
18w will make it move, but won't move much air.
My adapter generates 12.5W: will the fan move?
 
It's a DC fan, it will just run backwards if you get the polarity switched.

I've seen it!
So, it works. Considering its cost (about 170 € here, IIRC), it's definitely a good piece of news. Besides, it will be useful when I adjust the idle, or when I fill the radiator and I need the engine to run to get rid of air bubbles, etc..
 
If I remember correctly unplugging the temp sensor will turn the fan on. Also there is an updated fan sensor with a new part number.
 
[...]
I repaired the plstic frame with a solderer:
2gwfdxs.jpg

I tried it on the bike and it withstands the stress (I mean vibrations, etc.).
[...]

Eventually, the soldered parts of the frame broke in the soldered areas.
IMHO, I could get sturdier bonds among the parts utilizing the same kind of plastic of the fan. When I did that work I just utilized random pieces of black plastic I had in the garage. Do you know what kind of plastic it is?
 
I'm not a quitter! I'll fix it!
Ahahah.
The truth is that I use the bike only on tracks, so I don't need the fan, but I'd like to repair it for when I'll sell the bike. It won't look good, but at least I'll be able to state that it works properly.
Anyhow, thank you for the link.
 
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