Te 630 Sub-frame Mod

[motranqui]

Editing in a new post, as I have not still enough permisión to make it in the same post

Thanks a lot for the advice, CJBrown. It's great how your idea has spread all the whole world

 

[motranqui]

OK, I made it. Some pics of the process

 

[motranqui]

Thank you very much, CJBrown

 

[CJBROWN]

Hi

Thanks a lot for the advice, CJBrown. It's amazing how your idea has spread all the whole world

I want to carry out this mod in the next days as I don't want to take the risk to break the sub-frame.

Split hairs, do you think that the reinforcement brace could be shorten in the way I suggest, emulating the way the sub-frame is reinforced when it's welded? In my opinion, if the sub-frame breaks is going to be at "B" area. I don't think never is going to happen in "A" area, and so, the plate between C and D would not work to protect B area (I'm not sure, of course). Besides, between C and B we have the braces of the rack itself…

View attachment 63579

View attachment 63580

Only as an idea…

Ah well, thank you. Now if I could get paid for being somewhat famous. LOL.

Sorry for the late post, I guess I'm not getting email notifications for posts here - will change that.

As far as the shorter plate, what you have then is a total reliance on the one bolt to stop that part A from rotating down at the back and breaking the part B in your picture. By leaving it full length and bolted at both C and D, you effectively isolate part A from the equation. It doesn't even need to be there, and that's where it usually breaks.

So I would make them full length. A short one may be just enough to keep it from breaking, but you'll still have a highly stressed point there at B.

 

[motranqui]

Ah well, thank you. Now if I could get paid for being somewhat famous. LOL.

Sorry for the late post, I guess I'm not getting email notifications for posts here - will change that.

As far as the shorter plate, what you have then is a total reliance on the one bolt to stop that part A from rotating down at the back and breaking the part B in your picture. By leaving it full length and bolted at both C and D, you effectively isolate part A from the equation. It doesn't even need to be there, and that's where it usually breaks.

So I would make them full length. A short one may be just enough to keep it from breaking, but you'll still have a highly stressed point there at B.

Hi, CJBrown. I'm afraid it's not your fault that you do not receive emails. I think it has to do with lack of time moderators have taken… up to four weeks to pass some of my messages!

Regarding to the short plate, I appreciate your advice. Hope my short plates make a proper work and avoid the sub-frame of breaking

 

[motranqui]

Oh my gosh. Finally my account has been approved!!!

I want to kiss Moderator Joe Chod

 

[Mikedefieslife]

I previously had an xCountry and that had an aluminium subrame with no support beyond the pillion seat. There were a few documented breakages.

I took mine to a local welder who was able to take my crude cardboard cut out supports and create them in aluminium and weld everything up. It worked well. I must have had 15kg on the back off road without issue. In fact towards the end of the trip my steel rack snapped but the subframe was fine.

My question is, would it not be better (although more expensive) to weld a piece in place instead?

It looks like as with the X bikes the stresses are all long the top. If welding the triangle support pieces you can also double the thickness of the aluminium on top of the frame by adding in a small parallelogram type piece on the top of the subframe where the breakage is most likely to occur.

I don't have a 630 yet, but I'm posting as this would likely be the first piece of work I do when I get hold of one. Please do tell me to shut up if this isn't possible on the 630.

This is what I did with the X

 

[CJBROWN]

Welding has been well addressed, it's actually a better option. But completely disassembling the bike, making the webs and welding them, then refinishing and reassembling, is a WHOLE lot more work that cutting out a couple of bars and bolting them in.

Voila - reinforced aluminum subframe. And it works.

 

[NH-JP]

Hey Guys, I was directed to this thread as I was looking to see what could be done on my 310. Running a Nomadic Rack with a kolpin and afraid of what will happen.
You have some great ideas, and I am going to look at how I can adapt to what you have been working on.
I just thought that I would add that Nomadic Racks offers a pre-fabricated sub-frame brace.'
Here is the link: http://www.nomadic-racks.com/index....30-sub-frame-brace/p/18006588/category=976078

Just figured this was worth adding to the conversation.

Thanks!

 

[CJBROWN]

Hey cool, another knock-off. And they're out of stock.

Based on how extra weight on the 630 affects handling I imagine it's even worse on the 310. I'd likely opt for a couple of MSR bottles in the backpack. But hey, if it's working that should give you decent range.

I was also under the impression there was a good larger tank option for the smaller bike as well. <shrug>

 

[NH-JP]

Yep, I have the larger tank! 2.9 is it. 2.2 is what is stock I think. I do have the MSR bottle direction as well. I have just been trying to get more weight off of my back and onto the bike. Going Tubliss this season so that will cut down on tube and some flat supplies.

At least if I have the extra weight I will have a good excuse for my poor riding on that day! Hmmm, that gives me a good idea, maybe I should just ride with the Kolpin empty and then I will have an excuse every time I ride!

 

[shwaz]

new 610 owner here (well, it hasn't actually arrived yet, but i paid for it so by gar...)

very interested in this mod. does CJBrown make and sell these? i'd rather buy off a forum member than from a retailer especially if it's his design.

 

[CJBROWN]

new 610 owner here (well, it hasn't actually arrived yet, but i paid for it so by gar...)

very interested in this mod. does CJBrown make and sell these? i'd rather buy off a forum member than from a retailer especially if it's his design.

I'm here but I really never 'made them and sell them' - did one set for a fellow that didn't want to try cutting bar stock. It's easily done with a hacksaw and finish the edges with a bastard file.

More importantly the patterns published are for the 630 and I don't know if anyone every tried to make them fit on a 610. Perhaps someone along the way here can answer that.

They really are great bikes. I imagine you got a good deal as a lot of the riding public think support has gone away for them. I still have mine - just paid it off and still enjoy riding it. Best dualsport ever made!

Oh, and back on page 8 I posted a link for the patterns again.

 

[giann91]

Hello guys,

In my country is quite impossible to find aluminium 6061 in reasonable measure. What do you think about using steel instead aluminium?
And what should be a possible thickness ? Could be possible to reduce it e.g. to 3mm?
I'm not sure to be able to works easily 5mm steel sheet with hand tools.

 

[CJBROWN]

The ridgidity and lightness of aluminum is an advantage, as is being able to work with simple hand tools to shape them.

 

[bushwa]

Anything that will brace the rear section that is cantilevered off the back from a single point will help. Steel will weigh a bit more, and you should be ok with 3mm if that's all you can work with. The braces linked above from Nomadic Racks appear to be back in stock. For $25, with the necessary hardware, they're a good deal.

 

[mjskier]

The braces linked above from Nomadic Racks appear to be back in stock. For $25, with the necessary hardware, they're a good deal.

They may be a good deal, but when you look at the mount points you'll realize that they won't help much.
When I bought my bike the previous owner gave me a set he never bothered to mount. I looked at them and ended up making a set using CJ's design.

 

[Archangel]

Will definitely be doing this on my '09 TE 610. I had broken sub-frames on my KTM 525 and 950 Adv S. This time round, I'm doing it as preventative maintenance rather than a fix...

 

[CJBROWN]

This design is for the 630, and I'm not sure if I recall anyone adapting them to the 610 or not.
The 610 is definitely slightly different. TCS products - turbo city, had a brace for the 610 for their pannier racks. Not sure if they still have them or not.

 

[TripleThreat719]

I can't take any credit for this, well... except for introducing my brother to the welder who stitched it all together with a TIG welder. He works in the vocational school connected to my high school...

I now own this 2006 after purchasing it from my brother a little while ago.

Here is how he modified the subframe on a 2006 TE610...