• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE C/S sprocket question

BentAero

BentAero

Husqvarna
A Class
I bought a new C/S sprocket at the dealer the other day and upon close examination, the "shoulder" on the back side of it that goes toward the transmission is .070" thinner than the other two that I have.

This would allow the sprocket to 'float' in and out between the case and the circlip. Is this OK?

I suppose the sprocket will self center, but it makes me a little nervous that the circlip is not snugged up against the sprocket like normal. I vaguely remember seeing this on bikes in the past...
 
Can appreciate your apprehension, and I don't know if it's officially "right" or not, but had the same issue on my KTM's and never had any issues with the counter shafts wearing or anything like that. Used C/S products for years and hand nothing but good luck with their products. I tend to belive a little "float" is probably a good thing.
 
I've also had experience with this exact same width problem on aftermarket KTM sprockets. On the motors I had, the sprocket width was responsible for setting the crush on the inner O-ring, and if the sprocket was too thin you'd have a C/S leak. HAD TO have the correct width in order to avoid the leak.

You won't have the same leak problem with the Husky, since the O-ring is not crushed by sprocket width, but I sure don't like the idea of the sprocket being able to move. I don't honestly "know" that it could knock the circlip off, but that would worry me. It would be an expensive catastrophe if it happened at speed, and potentially dangerous.

What brand was the sprocket? I'd certainly let the manufacturer know. And if it were me, one way or another, I'd get a wider sprocket.
 
JT sprocket. Checked w/ the dealer today about it. He sez it's normal, and has been selling them that way for 30+ years. It's no problem. Good enough for me...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top