Te310 busted/pushed another starter out of the motor...what to do now!?

[joedirt]

I've read where people have used a Honda sprag instead of the Husky one. I just had the starter out again just to verify the condition or the flywheel surface and the sprag, both look good.

I used a sprag from a crf250x.

 

[robertaccio]

truth is most likely Honda sources those things out as well. I doubt Honda manufactures them, they really could be from the same place, many of the parts on the red huskys were asian. i think overall the sprags were good it was more the temper on the flywheel that mucked up that portion of the e start system. But that is without any test and eval data.

 

[joedirt]

I'm sure the sprags come from the same manufacturer. I had a crf250x engine here in pieces and notice the sprags looked about the same. I think the Honda part is cheaper.

 

[ray_ray]

Your JBweld work looks AOK and word is that 12 porter injector will make it a new bike ... Feel free to post some ride reports out here ...

Good luck on your riding; with your good attitude on chucking the estarter over your shoulder, I see only good things on the trail for you ...

 

[Fooschnickenz]

Went out for a few hours today, it is a joy to ride now and doesn't wear me out as fast due to less jerking at low RPMs it's much more stable. I don't miss the e start at all. I flamed out once or twice but it wasn't like before the 12 port injector, it was more my fault just not carrying enough speed and slammed throttle shut. Before it was more try and crack throttle a little it jerks I stall. The fuel injection is much more smoother but I did notice it get a lil jumpy at slow speeds after riding pretty hard but again nothing like before and not even really a complaint. If I HAD to complain about something it would be at times it clunks into first other times drops in nice and smooth. And sometimes when down shifting fast on a hill I'll just hit neutral and have to double tap shifter. Also noticed a small metal on metal noise from clutch side that goes away when I put my hand on the cover. Even that didn't concern me much. One thing I've been thinking about is my bike still has the white temp sensor, should I change that to a black one?

 

[R_Little]

Good to hear.

I may have an extra sensor.

 

[Fooschnickenz]

Was just riding in this 100 degree weather practicing log jumps at slow speeds in the yard, hopped off for a second while idling to drink water and bike died, it was the fuel pump locked up from getting too hot. It started right back up after cooling for just 5 minutes but is this an indication of my pump on its way out or just got too hot. On a side note I was running bike with spark arrest but it seemed bottled up a bit, so I took it out it runs smoother with it out but maybe it also runs hotter? Running 12 port /Ecu all COs 100 stock exhaust

 

[Fooschnickenz]

My gas level was pretty low just enough to cover the pump, figured it probably just got a lil too hot. I filled er up and took it for a nice hour long ride in the woods with no problems.

 

[Fooschnickenz]

Did another 2 hours/10 miles of single track today with no problems whatsoever. Really starting to enjoy the bike! I haven't ridden anything else in past 5 years to compare it to but this thing is just awesome, I'm only 5'6" 155 pounds and can barely touch the ground but I'd swear I was riding a much smaller/lighter bike. I can change lines with ease and even with the front a lil stiff for my weight I have little to no problem with the front tire pushing and it isn't even in the best shape tread wise. How often in the oil changes? 5-6 hours? Filter ever other time? Or should I get the stainless one?

 

[nzrugby]

Hi Fooschnickenz,

I to have had the exact same problem with my 2011 TE310. The starter motor was spat out a good 20mm - and had the starter motor mounting brackets crack open ...... and had a crack in the engine case in exactly the same spot as you. The interesting thing though this looks like the second time this has happened to this bike as I've discovered. When I went to JB Weld the crack, I discovered this area had been welded before. Hhhhmmmm. So I too have converted my bike to a kick start only (am starting to get the knack for kicking this over now but my right knee is protesting about doing this). The price to replace all starter motor components and have ES working again was $2600 aud so this is never going to happen, given it looks like it has happened twice already.
As an FYI be careful with the kick starter as the original kick starter shaft can snap (previously reported on here in another thread) ... and as happened to me. The original kick starter shaft has an 8mm hole but you can get a new one with a 6mm hole which has a lot more meat to it. refer to the below picture and see the #2.

 

[Fooschnickenz]

Damn that's interesting. Dunno how to be "careful" with kick start though lol. Mine starts right up 1st 2nd kick so I guess I'll cross that road if I come to it.

 

[R_Little]

Hi Fooschnickenz,

I to have had the exact same problem with my 2011 TE310. The starter motor was spat out a good 20mm - and had the starter motor mounting brackets crack open ...... and had a crack in the engine case in exactly the same spot as you. The interesting thing though this looks like the second time this has happened to this bike as I've discovered. When I went to JB Weld the crack, I discovered this area had been welded before. Hhhhmmmm. So I too have converted my bike to a kick start only (am starting to get the knack for kicking this over now but my right knee is protesting about doing this). The price to replace all starter motor components and have ES working again was $2600 aud so this is never going to happen, given it looks like it has happened twice already.
As an FYI be careful with the kick starter as the original kick starter shaft can snap (previously reported on here in another thread) ... and as happened to me. The original kick starter shaft has an 8mm hole but you can get a new one with a 6mm hole which has a lot more meat to it. refer to the below picture and see the #2.

Yes, It's more of an issue with the 310s I think.

The 250 seems to kick over a bit easier than the 310.

I've never seen one break on a 250.

 

[NYCMX]

I have 2 block off plates available. At the point you are at, and for the age of the bike and costs involved....... I would remove the starter assembly completely and go Kick only. they start so dang easily anyway. Just keep a good strong battery

One question did you ensure that the oil lube passage/orifice was not blocked? the gasket has a hole in it but it can be installed the right way or flip flopped the incorrect way. Also once the flywheel gets brinelled/beat up from the sprag its no good, you will have endless issues*, even if you put in all new sprag and other components. At a glance my inner surface that mates with the sprag clutch looked good but upon closer inspection it had ridges in it from the sprag rollers. We ended up replacing the entire system- Flywheel, sprag, bearings, worm gear, starter etc.
Kawasaki had a recall for this same issue, sprag was not being sacrificial as planned they were eating flywheels. The tempering on the flywheel was less than planned. The fix was replace the entire starter system.
In my case I considered the cost of the system to be reasonable, I disassembled my starter myself and cleaned it all up, it was dirty inside and the brushes were worn but good once cleaned the motor was good. The flywheel is what kills the deal it was like $4-500. I was very fortunate to have a good dealer and when BMW owned the brand---because I ended up with an entire new system for zero cost , it was run on a warranty claim. You no longer have that option, best money is to yank your system and go full kick start. remember the 2011 needs the battery (they did not yet have Keihin FI with the Capacitor) to run well so be sure to have good solid battery installed.
And yes I have 2 blank off caps and one good but used gasket available for sale.

Hi
I would be interested in 1 of your block off plates and gaskets. I give up on the starter.Let me know how much and acceptable payment---paypal or whatever you like.

Jay 2013 Te310R ----early serial #

 

[rancher1]

side note So far my TE300 has been pain free, although for grins I just changed out my starter relay just to be fresh (I also spritzed a good amount of MaxiLube into my starter gear assy for good measure). She was not turning well for a bit and I finally did some trouble shooting, turned out to be my 2.5 year old Earth-X battery (moneys worth) but meantime I got to PM my system. Now back to X-Lite.
The Italian Husky X-Lite the worm gear starter drive, engineering wise is obvious to me just not to have the "purchase/leverage to crank effectively it is a very inefficient way to crank the engine. a complete bevel drive system probably could have been imagined and incorporated and would have worked very well. The actual Sprag clutch portion of the system is a very common among different manufacturers system that works across the board, the exception being the temper of the inner flywheel from the Huskys that was insufficient harness to deal with the sprag rollers.
Sorry for your misfortune I've lived it with both my 11 TE310 X-Lite and my 13 TXC310 X-lite Red head, neither were pain free in the starter dept. and in other depts. as well. Handling/ braking/ chassis feel/ quality of individual contractor components second to none------overall bike robustness near the bottom compared to other brands.

PS while playing with the system don't forget to change out your start relay- due to the hard to turn nature of the mechanicals the system taps out on the Amperage scale and the main line contacts in the relay get "fried" with carbon and start to be higher resistance across the contacts which just adds to the misery of have even less available cranking power.....I regularly changed out start relays on these 2 bikes....some where I have a thread on that.
Again at this point I would remove the entire system and go kick only.

Rob, I am not sure you got your moneys worth out of the earth x battery after only 2.5 years. Most of my batteries last 4-6 years and think the earth x should be in that category as well.