• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

te310 elec start help

Hi all...somehow I think the manual might have been poorly translated. I hope anyway. This is what it says in the manual...

"With cold engine, as after a prolonged inactivity of the motorcycle or in presence of a low external temperature, proceed as follows:
1) set ignition key in IGNITION position (the buzz that you
hear when you turn the key to IGNITION is caused by the
fuel pump which puts the feeding system under pressure);
2) pull the starter lever;
3) pull the clutch lever;
4) shift gear pedal in neutral position then release the
clutch control lever;
5) Check that the button is in the out position and
press it, followed by the start button.
Bring the starter lever back to its original position as soon as the motor can idle.
When starting with an already warmed up engine DO NOT USE the starter.
When a cold engine has just been started, do not increase revs, to ensure an adequate oil warm-up and circulation."

I think in the context of where it has been written, it might actually mean not to use the 'starter lever' (choke), when the bike is warm. Not necessarily the e-start.

Thats only my guess though. I could be wrong.

By the way, I have also had a starting problem with my 2011 TE310. Starts first go when it is cold. Extremely difficult to start when it is hot though...after only 5mins riding. If i let it sit for about 15mins or so, it seems to want to kick over (electric and kick start)...like a cool down???

Checked the valves, starter, battery, coil...fairdinkum had just about every part off the bike.

We were lucky enough to have another 310 to use to swap parts back and forth and then we checked the stator....not doing what it should do. Swapped it out and all seems to be ok. Ive only had a short ride, just enough to get it hot, but it started every time when hot (yes both electric and kick).

I will give it a bit more of a thrashing this weekend, and see how it goes. If no good, Ill repost. If all ok, you wont hear from me again as I will be riding.
 
Look at the state of my stator...

Well it's been two weeks and all looking good so far.
Here's a couple of photos of the stator we pulled from my bike. It appears that the plastic has melted and attached itself to the outer. Problem was that when the stator was cold, the metal was in its cold (non-expanded) state, and all would work as normal. When the bike/stator warmed up, the metal/stator would expand and with the melted plastic, would jam itself. Had to wait till it cooled down enough for the stator to work again.

And here's the photos. I hope...

image.jpg image.jpg
 
TE 310 2012. After ~70mth problems with electric starter. Starter stall. Then guarantee change snail gear and gear wheel. Problem seemed solved... till ~140mth. The same stall problems. Finally starter clutch glued and gear wheel destroyed. Waiting for spare parts :-(
 
View attachment 53930

just checked the valves. all within spec but at the looser end.

surely this wouldn't affect the starting (would it)??

Mine was doing the same thing after it warmed up and after all those other things like valve adjust and battery replacement they changed the gear set on the starter. Now no problems starts great, costs little over $100.
 
I would suggest fixing your starter and when engine is hot kicking it , that's what the husqvarna techs and manual said to do , after you fix your starter and it starts good when hot in a 1000 miles or so it will probably be shot again, sucks but I still love my 310.
 
This is weird. 2 different dealers have said to me, kick it when cold and the e-start when hot?!
 
I would suggest fixing your starter and when engine is hot kicking it , that's what the husqvarna techs and manual said to do , after you fix your starter and it starts good when hot in a 1000 miles or so it will probably be shot again, sucks but I still love my 310.

Where does the manual say to kick it when it's hot?
 
I use e-start 99% of the time. Hot, cold, at elevation, etc... Get a great battery, make sure your decompressor is not bound up and just don't labor the starter. 3200+ miles on my bike.
 
I use e-start 99% of the time. Hot, cold, at elevation, etc... Get a great battery, make sure your decompressor is not bound up and just don't labor the starter. 3200+ miles on my bike.
I have a 12 te 310 , on my second stalk battery and starter already replaced once , this battery has a little over 600 miles on it and it won't turn over , what battery do you have so I can get one ? Thanks
 
I am using an EarthX. Just this morning after a warm up and gas stop kick starter was too hard to kick through but a touch of the estart turned it right over, so these batteries do have a more starting power and consistent output. I bought this battery from ZipTy in August of 2013. It is never trickle charged and as long as I ride it every few weeks it's been very reliable.
 
I am using an EarthX. Just this morning after a warm up and gas stop kick starter was too hard to kick through but a touch of the estart turned it right over, so these batteries do have a more starting power and consistent output. I bought this battery from ZipTy in August of 2013. It is never trickle charged and as long as I ride it every few weeks it's been very reliable.


John has it right.
Same here. I have the EarthX from ZipTy web site. Great batt, no trickle needed, more initial cranking power than stock. 1/2 the weight of stock batt too.

This seems to work for me on the trail...
When starting, I always turn key and listen for fuel pump to cycle and finish. Then I hit the start button. If I don't hear the fuel pump run and finish, I shut off the key and wait a few seconds then turn the key again, then start button. I've noticed it won't start unless the fuel pump has run. You can't just punch the start button anytime... just be patient.
 
I am using an EarthX. Just this morning after a warm up and gas stop kick starter was too hard to kick through but a touch of the estart turned it right over, so these batteries do have a more starting power and consistent output. I bought this battery from ZipTy in August of 2013. It is never trickle charged and as long as I ride it every few weeks it's been very reliable.
I didn't get your response in time yesterday so figured I would save and got a motosport from the dealer , after fully charging it turned my bike over once this morning and died , returned it thanks for your response.
 
I also use EarthX.

I wanted to mention, don't buy Shorai! I bought one in the past and it died in about a year and a a few months. Their warranty is terrible. It would've cost me about $100 to replace it, under warranty.
 
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