• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 first ride

Last Lap

Husqvarna
A Class
It was an interesting first ride. About 9 miles into my ride after riding a tight section I smelled something burning. My buddy a I could see the blue coolant stains on the engine. We removed the tank and found the hose on the plastic "T" was all the way at the end of the "T" and crimp style clamp apart and dangling around. We pushed the hose back on the "T" and I drove it home. Lucky it did not pop off before we found the problem. Husky uses three crimp style clamps on each side of the "T" so you can't over tighten a clamp and crack the plastic. I included photo of what I did so I could continue to ride. I meet a guy while riding that worned me about his 05 450 bike melting that "T" on the inside and plugging the water pump causing it to over heat. He said the was an aftermarket fix for this. I really was not paying close attention to the company who has the fix. So if anyone knows could you please post it.

Other than that The bike ran good. The gas cap leaked when the tank was full. I'm not sure what was going on there. The gearing on the bike seems short. You shift threw the gears pretty quick in the woods. I think first is useless. I found my self running 4th and 5th in areas that I could run third on my old bike. I hit a couple of blacktop roads. To keep up with my buddy on his 450 you have to ring it out in 6th. I came off a KTM 300xc so I'm not sure about this, but the bike does not like to lug in tight areas. You have to work the clutch. I would come up to two trees that were next to each other slow down pull the clutch in get threw the trees and let the clutch out and the tire would lock up and stall the bike. You have to slip the clutch and give it some gas. An auto clutch would cure that. The trans was smooth but I did get some false neutrals. I might have to adjust the shifter to fix that. I really liked the suspension on the bike. I did soften it before riding. I rode it 70K and my butt knows it. That seat is tough. The motor is super quiet. I could hear my budies decompressioner slapping in front of me when riding on low rpms, but nothing on this bike. Comming off a 300xc it would not be fare to compare the two motors. I did not wind it up all the way due to breaking it in. But it revs quick and seams to have a second hit up top that I felt when I was really tearing into it one time. I think once it is broken in it will be sweet. The fuel injection was smooth. It starts right up after being hot.

I tried putting EE hand guards on the bike before riding this weekend. A little note about that is the bars have a 5/16 opening at the end. You have to drill them alittle past 1/2 an inch to fit the collars inside the bars. I was able to cut an inch off each side and fit all the controls in with no problem. the reason I could not install them was because the clamps down by the base where not big enough. They are sending me the Renthal clamps. I let everyone know how it goes.
 

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For the bar clamps scottyr is right you need the magura, and go to motosportz.com and get the uptite Y to replace your plastic T. Support kelly because he supports us by sponsoring this website !!!
 
Hey guys thanks for all the help. Does anyone know how to change the gauge pannel from kilo to mph. I tried following the book. I'm not doing something right.
 
Last Lap;21941 said:
Hey guys thanks for all the help. Does anyone know how to change the gauge pannel from kilo to mph. I tried following the book. I'm not doing something right.

These were in my notes, not sure about accuracy. Mine is a 2006 TE250


Here is how to reset kilometers to miles (or opposite):

1. Start engine.
2. Pushing knob scroll A switch to screen where displayed SPEED, ODO, and RPM (on vertical LED indicator).
3. Stop engine and push knob scroll A.
4. Start engine while pushing for 3 seconds knob scroll A.

Note: After the previously described operation, ODO setting will be converted and all others data will be reseted (the hours counter is unchanged).
 
I think the stalling is due to low break-in time. Mine is the old version but I am able to walk the bike around thru trees and such and it usually doesn't stall. Coming off a KTM 300 there's gonna be some adjustment to the type of power. I did the same switch and it took me a while to get used to a four stroke.
The 310 will allow you to go faster because you don't have to be so careful with the powerband.
Nothing like grabbing a handful by accident and ping ponging off those damn S. Jersey pine trees-they f@#$in hard!:busted:
 
Last Lap;21941 said:
Hey guys thanks for all the help. Does anyone know how to change the gauge pannel from kilo to mph. I tried following the book. I'm not doing something right.

Did you ever figure out how to change the display pannel from km/h to Mph. I tried Dean's way and still not able to change to Mph. I trying to change it on an 09 TE 310 and followed the instructions on the owner's manual. :banghead:
 
cmonomo;40429 said:
Did you ever figure out how to change the display pannel from km/h to Mph. I tried Dean's way and still not able to change to Mph. I trying to change it on an 09 TE 310 and followed the instructions on the owner's manual. :banghead:

Well that is not good.

When you get the info please post up :thumbsup:
 
cmonomo;40429 said:
Did you ever figure out how to change the display pannel from km/h to Mph. I tried Dean's way and still not able to change to Mph. I trying to change it on an 09 TE 310 and followed the instructions on the owner's manual. :banghead:

Thanks to ktmtom reply,
"Have the display set to speed and ODO. Turn the key off. Hold down the display button while turning the key on. Keep the button held down until KPH shows up on the display, then let go of the button. After a few seconds it will alternate between KPH and MPH for a few seconds each, press the button when it is on MPH."
 
cmonomo;40468 said:
Thanks to ktmtom reply,
"Have the display set to speed and ODO. Turn the key off. Hold down the display button while turning the key on. Keep the button held down until KPH shows up on the display, then let go of the button. After a few seconds it will alternate between KPH and MPH for a few seconds each, press the button when it is on MPH."

Well if you, or anyone else, wants to create a 'how to' article/thread on this subject complete with pictures (to emphasize the different display used on the 2009) that would be fantastic.

I would copy the first post into the Tech Ref section and you will live in infamy :thumbsup:
 
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