• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 oil change

my_urban_chaos

my_urban_chaos

Husqvarna
AA Class
What is with the rubber hose coming from the drain plug on the TE310? The TE250 just has a drain plug. Where does this rubber hose go and why do we need it? How about replacing the hose with the TE250 magnetic plug? Anyone know what this line is about?
 
It works a lot better like it is on most stroked motors otherwise they blow it out and make mess.
 
What about putting a K&N filter on the breather end and then using a TE250 magnetic plug on the drain side? Other bikes us a filter on the breather hose and a regular drain plug. Any thoughts? Where does the breather hose on a 250 go to?
 
my_urban_chaos said:
What about putting a K&N filter on the breather end and then using a TE250 magnetic plug on the drain side? Other bikes us a filter on the breather hose and a regular drain plug. Any thoughts? Where does the breather hose on a 250 go to?
Click to expand...

The problem as I understand it is the pressure pulse inside the case caused by the larger bore and stroke of the 310 blows the oil out of the vent line. The vent hose returns to the drain plug to recapture it. It flows out of the case as vapor, up through the vent line, and into the catch tank built into the frame backbone. When the catch tank fills up, it blows out of the tank, down through the vent line, and back into the case via the drain plug. I just can't help but think it would have been better to just have a short hose with a one way valve going from the catch tank to a return fitting in the valve cover. I guess the problem is I'm American and you need to be Italian to design these things...
 
Elegance vs Get R Done sounds about right. So is there a way of changing the oil cleanly other than just taking that hose off and oil bouncing and ricochetting all over the place?
 
Your spot on Mike -AK I spoke to Husqvarna here in Australia about it as I was going to change to the mag plug but as you said the 310 pushes oil vapour into the frame and at hi revs and if you drop it the frame tank gets quite a bit of oil in it. I have modified my line with a 90 deg elbow hydraulic fitting and made a new plug with a nipple on it to screw the line onto as I was not happy with the push on line and hose clamp arrangement. I have a post on here about it if you search te310 oil line mod you will find it.
 
I think some folks did not get my first comment, but of course there are different ways and ideas to this.
First just copy the TC250 (and every other MX 250 out there) layout but with that there is the answer that the 310 does have more crankcase pressure and thus pushes more oil vapor and liquid out of the crank vent.
On my TE310 I left the cam cover crank vent tube in place (it goes to the middle fitting on the frame backbone -"catch tank".
At the high point fitting that went back into the intake tract, that kept the system a closed circuit set up (emissions legal), I ran that hose down and added a K&N crankcase vent filter, so now the entire system vents to atmosphere (the catch tank/frame backbone is open to atmosphere like many race engines, then I plugged the bung on the airbox intake boot. Then just bought the TC250 oil plug for a couple of bucks and installed that.
I plugged the frame low point fitting which was the drain back to the oil pan, I realize that some oil can and will pool up between the mid point crank vent hose fitting and the low point return that is now blocked, but the amount is a few ounces and is really a non issue (unless you really want to crazy about your exact amount of oil).
I also like the idea of not using the intake as a vent outlet where sometimes you get liquid oil plus a constant supply of oil vapor going through the entire intake tract and into the combustion chamber.
This close loop oil return circuit is not a performance issue its an emissions issue for regulations compliance (EU and other regs).
I also realize (because folks bring this up as well) that scientifically the intake tract offers a lower pressure environment for the vent as the engine is sucking in air, but I still would rather vent to atmosphere than to foul my inlet air with hot crankcase oil vapor air and liquid oil.

Ive been riding and racing the TE310 with this arrangement for almost a year now with no issues.

(I did the same type of K&N crank breather on my 2006 TE450 but on my 2008 TXC450 I left the vent into the intake alone and sometimes after crashes would have huge oil smoke clouds from oil draining into the intake tract from the bike being upside down)
you can just see the chrome top of the crank vent filter and where I put it up front behind the skid plate, it kind of sits on top of the engine mount
IMG_0293.jpg
 
Do the 2011 & 12 310 engines have a sump plug like the 2013's?

My manual says to drain from the hose/barb fitting and there is no mention of the sump plug with magnet that is there also....

Why not just drain from the sump plug and leave the PITA hose fitting and screen for every 3-4 changes?
 
Possibly bcuz there is a screen type filter behind the plug that should be cleaned after each oil change. Have been thinkin about doing this to my 12'txc310. The more I ride it the more I will need to change the oil...........
 
So the 2012 has a sump plug?
Does it have a magnet on the sump plug also?

The reason I ask is because I've done numerous oil changes on my 510 which has two metal screens and a standard paper filter. The screens picked up some assembly silicone the first 2-3 changes but then they were clean and it seemed a waste of time to remove each oil change.
 
Boogie said:
Do the 2011 & 12 310 engines have a sump plug like the 2013's?

My manual says to drain from the hose/barb fitting and there is no mention of the sump plug with magnet that is there also....

Why not just drain from the sump plug and leave the PITA hose fitting and screen for every 3-4 changes?
Click to expand...
I too wonder as the sump plug is how I drain the oil from every other motor I have owned and curious if there is any mention in a '13 specific service manual.
 
Johnrg said:
I too wonder as the sump plug is how I drain the oil from every other motor I have owned and curious if there is any mention in a '13 specific service manual.
Click to expand...
Boogie said:
Do the 2011 & 12 310 engines have a sump plug like the 2013's?

My manual says to drain from the hose/barb fitting and there is no mention of the sump plug with magnet that is there also....

Why not just drain from the sump plug and leave the PITA hose fitting and screen for every 3-4 changes?
Click to expand...
Because if you don't check the screen you will miss it when your timing gear bearing starts to come apart and drop cage pieces into that mesh screen. Don't ask me how I know...
 
The new engines have a oil drain plug right next to the crankcase drain back. If you remove the drain back and allow the oil to flow onto the ground, the oil is deposited on the rider behind you (ask anyone who has ridden behind Ty). I have been addressing this issue on the 449's, but I will look into a mod for the earlier 310's.
 
I'm not real sure what the issue is but....

2011/2012 TE310s DONT have a seperate Sump Plug . You drain Oil via the Hose / Screen as above.

2013 has a seperate Magnetic Sump Plug (8mm Allen Key) located directly under the centre of the Engine. But you still
need to remove the Hose to check / clean the Screen.

You can get a 2013 Service Manual (on Disc) from a Dealer.
 
DG Harv Serv said:
I'm not real sure what the issue is but....

2011/2012 TE310s DONT have a seperate Sump Plug . You drain Oil via the Hose / Screen as above.

2013 has a seperate Magnetic Sump Plug (8mm Allen Key) located directly under the centre of the Engine. But you still
need to remove the Hose to check / clean the Screen.

You can get a 2013 Service Manual (on Disc) from a Dealer.
Click to expand...

Good news. The answers I needed.
 
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