• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 Oil

I am doing my first oil change on my 2012 Te310 I have some motorex cross power fully synthetic 4T 10W/50. will that work in the TE310?

Thanks
-Huskman
That's the oem recommendation, but we feel you should use 0W40 or 5W40 instead. This greatly increases the flow in the 250/310 engines. This will cool and protect the bearings, increase clutch functionality and shifting. Mobil 1 and Shell Rotella T6 are commonly found at Walmart at about $22/gallon as well as many auto parts stores. Consider switching to a stainless steel oil filter for up to 7 times greater flow and protection.
 
Thank you very much for the info!!

question?? are you referring to the Mobile 1 0W40 automotive motor oil? or the motorcycle oil?

According to mobile 1 website they do not make 0W40 for the motorcycle. I am sure I am just missing something here

Thanks
-Huskman
 
Thank you very much for the info!!

question?? are you referring to the Mobile 1 0W40 automotive motor oil? or the motorcycle oil?

According to mobile 1 website they do not make 0W40 for the motorcycle. I am sure I am just missing something here

Thanks
-Huskman

These are the best I have found to date:

0007192454526_500X500.jpg
rotella%20vs%20helix.jpg

torco_oil.jpg


http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-40-Advanced-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Quart/23636902
http://www.rarejdm.com/torco-sr-5-racing-oil/
 
Yes. The additive package differs mostly by the ZDDP added. Which if you look HERE, there is not a big difference. ZDDP is only protection on start-up and is only an attempt at reducing wear until the oil can flow. It would be better to run 0W40 as it is thinner at start up and will lower wear to a greater extent.
 
Tinken, I plan to use one of those oils you have listed. What about for break in? I have a bike with zero hours on it...
 
I ran 0W40 Mobil1 for the break in on my TE511, 30, 100, 300mile oil change intervals. After 1500 miles, I tore it down to every last gear and clip to inspect and rebuilt it with the BMW transmission. It looked brand new inside, perfect tolerances, zero wear on the cylinder. I continue to run M1 0W40 with a Stainless steel oil filter and change every 300 miles.

We have been testing ADDP instead of ZDDP (zinc) for high pressure wear. I will update when we have results.
 
I use carb cleaner outside and then inside with red straw. Then hot soapy water, rinse and air compressor dry from the inside out. You can hit it with WD40 after air to displace any residual water.
 
I have a few short small glass jars perfect for depositing the filter and pouring in some mineral spirits or other and slosh around prior to a soapy wash w/dawn. That way I can see what has settled from the filter.
 
I blast mine with carb cleaner then put it in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner with soapy water, rinse it with hot water, and let it air dry.
 
If you notice the package that SS came in, it fits Japan bikes also ... That's why the price is down around the $30 range..

I have a few short small glass jars perfect for depositing the filter and pouring in some mineral spirits or other and slosh around prior to a soapy wash w/dawn. That way I can see what has settled from the filter.
I never trap what is in my filter when cleaning, but to the naked eye, my SS filters are very very clean. Are you seeing much of anything trapped in your filter?
 
I just installed my first SS a few days ago, after using a few HiFlo. At 1,500 miles my engine has been very clean so far.
 
If you notice the package that SS came in, it fits Japan bikes also ... That's why the price is down around the $30 range..


I never trap what is in my filter when cleaning, but to the naked eye, my SS filters are very very clean. Are you seeing much of anything trapped in your filter?
I do. I have a 23lb-pull magnet in the end of my SS filter that magnetizes the stainless steel and I can see the ultra fine black debris that is trapped on the outside of the filter. When I remove the magnet, the particles come right off.
 
I do. I have a 23lb-pull magnet in the end of my SS filter that magnetizes the stainless steel and I can see the ultra fine black debris that is trapped on the outside of the filter. When I remove the magnet, the particles come right off.

That would a nice fix for the oh-so-great-ones who removed the magnetic drain plug from the 010 TCs...

Send out a pic of that magnetic piece of art-work some day if you remember ..
 
Back
Top