• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te310 ride report & help req with a few bits..

andy j

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi Guys.. my bike is a 2010 te310 150 miles.. i would say im bottom to mid intermedate rider. so if my riding technique is off pls let me know!. previous bike 05 yzf 2005 mx trax only not used on this track so hard to compare like for like. Buddy was with me on his 2003 KTM. did try that.
MY riding track for this report is small with tight turns small jump, couple of ditches some tight through trees sections and couple of drop ins and steep slopes out..
surface is a mixture of smooth clay, bumpy grassy area (think unmanaged overgrown) and loamy soil where some burms and ruts formed. conditions dry not dusty but not wet enough to stick to the bike..
Previously i did take it to an MX track to try.

the idea was to try and set the bike up.. for H&H / enduro and get to know what settings did what..

The bike has had the power up kit done, indicators were never fitted everything else is standard. apart from the rear light as i ve fitted the racing version( had to pay for this it does not come with the 2010)
It has the DB killer in, though i have a cut down version of this. no spark arrestor is fitted.

The bike starts and runs great it did back fire on de cell loads before the lamda sensor was removed.. Im not sure what efi settings are i asked for it to be richened but im not sure this was done. It will start hot or cold 1st or second kick and tick over at 1800 all day long, whether its been left in my garage for a week or just turned off.. its brilliant. Obviously the electric start is great and easy to use. ive been kicking though to understand how this will work if i ever need to..

Power.. personally i find the off the throttle weak to a strong gutsy mid that continues to the top end. there is no power band unless you count the off the throttle bottom to the mid where it pulls hard I think 4-5K RPM.
Its just a smooth power from mid to and through the top end.
Example: onto a third gear straight brake into first round a tight walking pace corner, first is too low here because as soon as you have twisted the throttle you need to change to second if you do this you have no probs but its all a bit hectic as your not even 5m out of the corner still turning and you got to change into 2nd gear,, So instaed exiting in second with maybe a little slip of the clutch to stop stalling (I said tight turn didn't I) twist the throttle wide open and all you get is big air sucking noises and gentle pull as soon until as it hits 5k it takes off then you got to change to 3rd, 4th , 5th.. the tyre would not spin in 2nd at low speed off the throttle and could take more power if it was available before it did. Grippy mud here.. engine braking is huge.. although i think this getting better as i get more miles on the engine. im starting to use this to my advantage ie into corners etc, but in first gear its mad enough to lurch you nearly over the handle bars.. I would rather not have this than have it.

For comparison and just for info i swapped with my buddies immaculate 2003 KTM 450 EXC racing. 2nd gear was higher on this so the same technique. in second same amount of clutch slip if a little speed was not carried through but if you banged the throttle open at the same low speed you could light the rear no problem.. i found the KTM gave me much quicker out of the corner acceleration controlling the throttle keeping just on the edge of traction than i did with opening the 310 all the way and waiting.. plus with the fact that the 2nd was higher geared on the KTM it just seem all a little less flustered to get to the next turn.

Any suggestions for more low down power please help.. efi settings perhaps?

Suspension. Rear
rear seems great, no problems to report all standard settings..does not bottom out even on big jumps at the MX track on a previous weekend. Its all post ride clean now and i got some nasty graunching noise on rebound if i press the seat down hard? have no idea what this is.. hope its not the shock.. have sprayed some wd around the flaps & linkages but its still doing this.. any heads up before i investigate further?

Suspension.Front
Having trouble here so need any input..
I thought the front suspension felt hard..
lets say we have a bumpy surface with small sharp undulations and ruts. it feels really harsh like im getting beat up. my elbows are taking a pounding and hurting. Now i didnt really pay attention to my YZF it just felt good i never took it on this track but did mx tracks that were just as bumpy and i did not get beat up as much. But the husky just felt wrong.. I thought to day would allow me to set it up..
im at 24out on the compression (29 avaliable) and 12 out of the rebound (available) at the end of the day and this was the best i have got (not tried any more out yet ran out of time) the small bumps are a little softer.. any big flat landings the suspension seems to give ok for the first part of the travel and then go really stiff like its just too much for it to handle, im not sure if its using the full travle. its the same if i come of the drop off at slow speed into the two whoops at the bottom it hits the first which takes all my effort to stay on but the second right after will see me hanging on for dear life thought this might be too much rebound damping. ( slower makes no improvement, faster is danger level) landing a small jump just rear first with front following under a slight acceleration it seems fine..) big flat bottom jumps on the mx track were the same, initial part landing feels fine then the suspension just stiffens up and you have to give it in your arms which is so much effort. it feels like the oil will not go through the valves fast enough and bogs up..is the only way i can describe this..
I have bled the air at various times through out the day...
When i jumped on the KTM the difference was huge.. the suspension in comparison glided over the small bumps so much so that my elbows that were hurting from my bike were not hurting as much!!. all this from a standard 2003 bike??. he assures me its only ever had the oil changed when seals were undertaken and the bike shop put less oil in the forks..
if i can get my bike like this i will be really happy....
If i stand over my bike pull the front brake and compress the forks slowly as much as i can it is not smooth. it will go say 60mm-100mm smooth and then come across a step that takes more effort to get it to compress and then again more before it goes say another 70mm before it happens again.. its slight but enough to stop the fork compressing a smooth constant travle until i give it more load/pressure.. if i push down harder as much as i can say in a fast rate it will compress as much as i can push and feels ok one smooth travle.
Any help with this much appreciated.

Gearbox. to me the gears at the moment seem way to close ratio. first is a trials gear and with the fact that the engine braking is massive in first I tend to use second instead.. on the track 6 is about right but on the road its way to short, its not for the road so im not fussed. have only been in 6th on the mx track a couple of times. The other gears do seem to need changing much more than my YZF so i got to get used to this..
Gear lever. way too close to the footpeg ive measured most bikes and have yet to find another bike with a closer lever. due to my experiance changing gear is a bugger, hard unless im seated and can think about flicking it up on the side of my foot.. no way a mx boot is going under that lever. Have hit neutral lots and changed down loads when on a bumpy part... im a size ten and try to ride on th eballs of my feet. will be looking for a longer gear lever if anyone knows.


cornering.. compared to the KTM the husky turns amazingly well. for the first few laps on the kTM i just could not get the KTM leaning and turning where as i can get my bike low and tight.. riding experiance aside i was surprised at how much i could turn in the husky. The KTM did not feel heavier just that it would not turn. before i get accused of KTM slating this is a 2003 model..

I was starting to get into the flow before it was time to go home. tight turns and hard acceleration up the straights. it will pup the front wheel in the ground 2nd & third and is nice to control. turns great. front brakes are totally awesome. one finger on the lever endos no problems..
Im starting to get the a feel for the bike just got to sort out my few issues that im sure would be the same with whatever colour i had purchased..

any thoughts, help, comments all appreciated..

oh nearly forgot..
The first comments from my buddy after ten or so laps..
Wow that turns sharp! real sharp, miles better than mine.. could have warned me about the engine braking! nearly face planted the ditch.. gear lever is in wrong position.. needs raising or something..
low bottom end but nice once it gets going..


regards

Andy
 
Great report, only suggestion re front suspension is to wait for 300 to 500 miles. The forks like the engines on Husky's really do free up. They just take a bit longer than average to bed in, I think that is a positve from a longevity perspective.
The harshness will soften I promise you (am presuming you are not 90 Lbs).
 
Great bike choice, but the KTM your comparing to is definatly a different animal. I've had about 8 KTM 450's, this being my first Husky, all be it a 2009 TE310. That said, I ride with all KTM guys, most of which are on 450's and now that my bikes set up for me, I walk um in everything but the long, fast sand washes, dirt roads which one would expect. It didn't happen over night though. I uncorded it right out of the box, and have to say the first 200 miles weren't all that aw inspring in terms of the bark I got out of mine, but I wasn't thrashing it real hard either. Wanted to break it in right, but had a good idea the bottom end wasn't anywhere near what I was use to on my 450's.
Motor:
At 200, I set the valves (which you should consider in any event) put her on the iBeat and set it at CO1-100%, CO2-110%, and CO3-100%. The outcome was night and day. She was starving in the mid-range for fuel, but she got what she needed with the new settings. The motor is going to run better and better the more time you get on it. My KTM's pretty much ran as good out of the box as they did with 1,000 miles on um, the Huskies are just different. They need time, but WORTH the wait! As for needing more bottom end snap, the iBeat settings didn't make the difference right off throttle, it was more mid throttle. The compromise I found was going with the G2 quick turn throttle tube. It takes less "twist" to get to WFO which helps everwhere. If you ride a lot of tight stuff you'll have to learn a little throttle control, but by in large, the best performance add on for the money I've ever done. The 310's like to be ridden like yer really ticked off at it, but not nearly as much as say a 250 does. The G2 helps you do that without thinking about it you might say.

Suspension:
If your truly experiencing the kind of sticky forks you reference, I personally would have them apart and on my bench checking all your bushings for abnormal wear marks and the valve stack for any particles that may be plugging things up. Make sure both tubes have the same clicks top/bottom. Sounds simple enough, but I'm guilty of having done it! Worst case you get some fresh oil in there set to the right height for your style/preference. I personally run a little more oil with the stock valving as I was having some issues bottoming out on some vertical drops which sounded like someone was banging two hammers together. 20mm more oil in both tubes, 2.5 wt. shock theropy oil and problem solved. Forks are on par with the WP's on my Katooms. Nice and plush in the chop/rocks, and I don't fear the dreaded G-outs anymore. The rear took a new spring for my weight, but once I got the compression/rebound set right, again, no complaints with the stock valving. Bike is extremely well balanced, and as you know, turns like no other! That was the first thing I noticed when I first rode it. Love it. All that said, coming from the KTM, my feeling is the Zokes are just as good or better, but sounds like you need to get in there and check things out.

Gearing/Misc.
Gearing needs work for most if your looking for "speed". Stock gearings been good to me in the AZ desert where you go from high speed wash, to tight single track, to vertical climbs, back to twisty whooped out single track all in about a mile. I don't ride H&H type fast stuff, more enduro though so sure I'd take few teeth off the rear if that weren't the case or I was going to be riding on MX tracks. The gear shifter's are set up for 15 year olds with little feet. I couldn't shift either, and I too am only a 10, size but I put a 20mm longer shift lever tip on off a Honda CRF from Hammerhead and solved that problem. Zip Ty also makes one for Husky, probably with less install hassle than the Hammerhead ones. A must have though, amazing difference 20mm can make!

Could go on and on about the bike, and kind of did, but all things considered, give it time. The TE310's are little rockets. They just need a little fine tuning. Good luck!
 
Great replys thanks chaps..
im 85kg without gear by the way..
As suggested by GHTe will give the suspension another 200miles before I decide if anything needs to be re worked. I got an enduro on sunday and old style scramble in three weeks im thinking of entering.. this will be a good test and further run the bike in..
Im going to check the front & rear suspension all over tonight with a mate to watch & listen to make sure were not binding on anything. Im more concerned with the rear noise on rebound.. I found this from the forums

http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5317&highlight=rebound+noise

and im wondering if this could be the same problem?? it would be a shock to find major issues at a 150miles but i would imagine any issues would be covered under warranty..

Ive had the first valves checked & one exhaust was a little tight so was adjusted at 3hrs whats recommended. i changed the oil & filter at 1hour and was due to do another this week..
I think the low bottom of throttle power is not a bad issue.. im just used to having to control the throttle not winding it right open.. it will certainly be more easy to ride once the going gets slippy in wet mus for instance.. Husqvna did you try any increased co1%?
and obviously this made no difference or you would have kept it... and if you say that you get improved mid ranged holly smokes this is already really strong!..
Would be interested to know what insert you have in the exhaust DB killer or racing version.. i have both and would like to go to my dealer and ask him to adjust the co based on your suggestions. its a shame i cant take his lap top to the track to play with!..
Also regarding your suspension settings did you leave your front near to standard what did you end up with.. just thinking maybe ive gone completely out of sync with rebound and compression??
That gear lever sounds just the job does anyone know where i can get one in the UK??

many thanks for your reply

Andy
 
Andy,
your review of the 310 is spot on for what experienced with it too. Seems like you were reading my mind when you wrote it. The other posters are right, after a while the forks do loosen a bit and the motor gets smoother. I felt the same way about the low 1st. Seems that lower gearing would make 2nd a little more useful, but I'm thinking maybe I should just go a little faster. Easy right? Heck with the stock shifter I miss 1st to 2nd shifts most of the time anyway. Last ride I kept getting only partially into 2nd where it'd pop out of gear and nearly send me over the bars. Gotta get that fixed......
 
I'm just starting to dial in my 310 for enduros. Backing out the comperssion for fork break in is good. But after that backing it out that far can lead to packing the forks. And that could cause a jaring affect. I sent my suspension out to Drew and it fixed most of the front end problems. Recheck your sag. My bike runs great at co1 @ 118 co2 @112 and co3 @ 107. One thing that helps this bike turn better is to put a Michelin s12xc 120/90-18 rear tire on it. It two stoke size tire and really helps.
 
he bushman ive had my bike for almost a year now... and love it 100% i have it pretty much perfect for me..
im currently writing up a 1 one year report to post on here soon
i got the suspension valved, 14t on the front, changed the co2 settings.
and compete at local club enduros and mx... the bike is totally awesome... and standard apart from the above..
and my dealer has been perfect too.. with knowledge & customer care..


andy
 
BUSHMAN332;135019 said:
I put a 14 tooth up front and the little thing rips

Nice report ... Apparently Huskys are screamers \ racers ... the low end just ain't there to a high degree ... I'm fine with this ... use the clutch as needed here and put the ponys where a racer wants them ... A.K.A @ the mid and top ...

Yep, that 6-speed has a lot of potential but U gotta change some sprockets ... Adding 1T to the FS will really open the gearing up on the bike and it will still have the horses to pull bike in most places with no problem ... Then I'd suggest going down to a 48T on the rear next if you want more speed ... Then you have the 13 / 14 T sprockets for high \ low gearing of the bike for tracks \ trails \ hiways ... ( I don't think a 15T will fit on my bike so the rear must played with )

A 47 \ 46 T rear might be the overall best for hiway speeds but you will need a 12T for the FS for the really tight stuff ... Not sure what holds UR FS on but on my 08 TXC250, it is s snap ring only ... One chain is working for the 13 / 14 FS and 48 / 50 T rear sprocket combinations ... Going to the < 48T rear might require a second chain :(

On those seals, pop off the dust cover and use a feeler gauge or something to clean them ... many times it is just dirt in them ... U can then fill the gap inside the dust cover with grease or something to help keep the dirt out for the future ...

My 08 TXC250 is a do everything bike also :) ... No problems really after ~350 hrs other than the simple maintenance any can opener would need ...

PS -- On the clickers, just go back to the default settings if you need to and start again ... and if you go into the forks, verify the oil amounts ... this plays a big role in their behavior ... extra oil helps stops bottoming but gives a stiffer ride and lowering the oil amount does the opposite ...
 
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