• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE449 crankshaft locking tool/valve checking

I believe they use common size shims like 9.5mm or 7.5mm, not the special ones like ktm uses.


No, two are common - two are these weird half moon deals. Ive not been exposed to a ton of motors, but EVERYTHING in the past has been something that I could buck up and for $40-60 get a really nice kit that lets me do everything on the fly.

I hate tearing something apart then waiting while I order or have to drive out and get parts. I am lucky that I have a shop within an hur - for folks 3, 4, 6+ hours away - they get to wait days with their motor apart.

I DO like that they have stayed out so far - fingers crossed there.
 
I am gearing up for valve checking my 2011 TE449, and am curious as to the configuration of the tool used to lock the crankshaft at TDC (part # 8000H5009). Pics in the manual only show the remaining exposed threaded portion. Has anyone used the tool? If so, could I make one, or is it too specialized? Is it just a threaded length, or what?

Also, how are shims sold? Separately, or in sets? Assorted sizes, or do you have to specify? You don't know what you need until you check. Will the valvetrain hold together while waiting for shim delivery, or, if needing adjustment, don't ride until I have new ones?

Marc


The original question was never answered. My question is the same. Is locking the crankshaft at TDC with that "special tool" the only way to do this? Is the "special tool" just a long bolt? Does anyone have this "special tool" ???
 
The original question was never answered. My question is the same. Is locking the crankshaft at TDC with that "special tool" the only way to do this? Is the "special tool" just a long bolt? Does anyone have this "special tool" ???
s the "special tool" just a long bolt? Does anyone have this "special tool" ???[/quote]
Actually I answered it in post #14 to this thread: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te449-crankshaft-locking-tool-valve-checking.28976/#post-379853
 
You can use metric all-thread.


That's essentially what I did. And when my bike shows up in Hesperia on Wednesday, and if you're around, you'll see it. It'll have a box of all the parts I've removed from it to get down to removing the cam shafts. The crankshaft is locked in at TDC... the top end is in a few pieces... nothing is broken, except the parts that died from heat exposure and lack of cooling oil.......... it'll all be there Wednesday. Can't wait to drop it off and see what goes down.
 
Greetings:

It's been a while, but I hope that I may be allowed to get the ball rolling again.

I just had a clicking sound start suddenly, and I am wondering if it may be that either a valve shim or ball was tossed. I would think that valve clearances gradually opening up would cause a gradual increase in clicking audible-ness (?). I have just under 4,100 Km on it in 48 months. Think I need to check valve clearances, or might it be something else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Something else I was wondering about is, when I look at the range of shim/ball thicknesses in the parts catalog, the minimum/maximum thickness ranges are .7 and 1.1 mm, respectively. To me, that seems so small that it makes me wonder if it's even necessary to adjust anything at all. I am skeptical that a .15 mm adjustment (for example) makes a noticeable difference with regard to longevity. Any thoughts?
 
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