• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE510 rear brake question

nsrrider

nsrrider

Husqvarna
AA Class
i have an 07 that i ride in tight woods.......on a hot day, i occasionally cook the rear brake fluid and momentarily lose the brake until it cools down....ive changed out the fluid to a higher boiling point fluid which helped but did not elliminate the problem

would there be any benefit to drilling out the rear rotor for cooling?

thanks for your time!
 
You need to get a vented rotor. Drilling out your solid rotor will leave the edges sharp and it will eat brake pads quick. Motosportz carries a wide variety of brake rotors and they are very reasonable. Tell us what year and model and we will see what we can do for you.
 
Drilling the rotor is only going to wear the pads out quicker. I make a radiator for the rear break for this reason helps keep the fluid cooler.
Later George
 
motosportz mike;107440 said:
You need to get a vented rotor. Drilling out your solid rotor will leave the edges sharp and it will eat brake pads quick. Motosportz carries a wide variety of brake rotors and they are very reasonable. Tell us what year and model and we will see what we can do for you.
Click to expand...

is this still the case if you chamfer (sp?) or bevel the hole?
 
nsrrider;107408 said:
i have an 07 that i ride in tight woods.......on a hot day, i occasionally cook the rear brake fluid and momentarily lose the brake until it cools down....ive changed out the fluid to a higher boiling point fluid which helped but did not elliminate the problem

would there be any benefit to drilling out the rear rotor for cooling?

thanks for your time!
Click to expand...

maybe a lil obvious, but does your rear brake pedal have sufficient freeplay?
 
Perhaps a little more front brake use and throttle control,would help with the rear brake over heating issue.What compound pads are you using,the full sintered create the most friction,= heat,maybe a carbon kevlar or one of the other compounds would be better suited for your use.I've known a lot of people that routinely "drag/ride the back brake" unknowingly,and more freeplay cures the problem. good luck
 
Thanks.....will look again at the free play
I know I'm heavy on the rear brake in the woods
not so much for braking as for steering I guess
 
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