• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 or TE449 Dead Throttle Question?

Oh okay. Yes, that little brown ground wire needs to be attached to your sub-frame location away from harms way. It's not even a high voltage ground and should never of been added to the head. I wish the coil ground wasn't epoxy potted so we could add braid instead.
 
...I installed a new ground from the Battery (-) to the subframe bolt. I used the subframe bolt as my common Point since the Battery terminals are weak. I Needed a good point to connect multiple ground cables from and the subframe bolt was easy choice. Off the Sub Frame Bolt I installed a new ground to the Engine (Where the Coil ground wire connects), installed a New cable to the Throttle Body Bolt and a new Ground to the Front of the bike.
Conclusion,
One weekend in the desert after grounding everything, Bike starts faster and smoother and no throttle issues....
Fascinating and brilliant! :thumbsup:

Part of me is curious if that might help the xlite motors with the starter motors burning out. Those bike seem to either have the problem, or not have the problem i.e. if a starter burns out on a TE310, then the replacement tends to burn out.
 
TE511 in LA-B2LV! Close to 500 miles over two days, 100's of miles of sand, Rocks, Hill climbs, miles and miles of whoops with little rest for the bike or rider. Only experienced two throttle error's out of who knows how many hundreds of thousands of throttle twist! My opinion, additional grounding, cap move, coil ground relocation help reduce this problem. :thumbsup: Bike ran like a champ! No mechanical issues :cheers:
 
Fascinating and brilliant! :thumbsup:

Part of me is curious if that might help the xlite motors with the starter motors burning out. Those bike seem to either have the problem, or not have the problem i.e. if a starter burns out on a TE310, then the replacement tends to burn out.
I believe the reason why the xlite starter motors burn out is because they are unable to handle the higher current draw. Current draw from the starter varies with battery condition and as the voltage drops from the battery the current is inversely increased. Lithium ion battery packs which typically run at higher operating voltages may help solve this problem with the addition of a start capacitor.
151308.jpg

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=151308
 
TE511 in LA-B2LV! Close to 500 miles over two days, 100's of miles of sand, Rocks, Hill climbs, miles and miles of whoops with little rest for the bike or rider. Only experienced two throttle error's out of who knows how many hundreds of thousands of throttle twist! My opinion, additional grounding, cap move, coil ground relocation help reduce this problem. :thumbsup: Bike ran like a champ! No mechanical issues :cheers:

Way to go Husky! I am seeing a more and more Husky's on the trail!
Great job on the LA-B to LV. I got to work Friday, Saturday & Sunday!:thumbsdown:
 
Positive News: (Edited)
I was Following some other posts, this trigger my thoughts to start observing how the grounding configurations on the 2011 TE. I found the Throttle Body, Throttle Cables and Handle bars are not grounded. I followed the path for ground back to the source, well.... :excuseme: I am not trying to second guess Husqvarna Design engineers or claim a wrong doing. I am just looking for a FIX to long time problem! Things like Triboelectrification or asymmetrical friction and Coehn's law. Does this have any merit in this problem:thinking: I will leave to HV design engineers. Thought I would toss in my thoughts.

In my profession, intermittent problems and/or noise around sensitive electronics can typically be related to poor or improper grounding. I was kicking an idea around, nothing to loose but a few bucks, a little time, so Lets ground everything. I installed a new ground from the Battery (-) to the subframe bolt. I used the subframe bolt as my common Point since the Battery terminals are weak. I Needed a good point to connect multiple ground cables from and the subframe bolt was easy choice. Off the Sub Frame Bolt I installed a new ground to the Engine (Where the Coil ground wire connects), installed a New cable to the Throttle Body Bolt and a new Ground to the Front of the bike.
Conclusion,
One weekend in the desert after grounding everything, Bike starts faster and smoother and no throttle issues. Next weekend, I cruised around the desert again, miles of whoops and desert trails. By now I have over 100+ miles in two weeks. Gorman GP was only a week away and thought this would be a great test. I signed up and off to the GP event Gorman Ca. Lots of turns, shifting, quick accelerations and put the bike to a test. Again, Bike Run flawlessly even laying on the ground horizontally in the dirt, the bike would not quite or stall :lol: .

While the solution I have posted has solve my case, would be nice to find additional TE Owners with Electronic or Mechanical experience willing to try this possible grounding solution.

Anyone that has experienced the snap of the throttle and the surprise that follows knows exactly what I am talking about! My Final test run will be the LA Barstow Vegas run. After 480+ Miles with no throttle issues, I will be convinced grounding had a role in the solution. Currently I feel good about the solution and the Bike is running perfectly, no stalling, smooth running and starts right up hot or cold and in Gear!
Desertyucca I think you are on to something. I am one of those Te owners that has electronic and mechanical experience that you are looking for.

I am amazed that the throttle body is nor grounded. Anyone that has used a shop vac or air compressor knows that air movement can cause static electricity to build up. With the throttle body on the TE449 the arc path to ground is through the TPS into the ECU. This could not be good.

I added a ground to the throttle body.

I also grounded the ignition coil directly to the frame. I think this will help prevent ignition noise from entering the ECU as well as hopefully preventing a failure of the ground wire.



I had already moved the battery ground to the nearby sub frame bolt and increased the size of the battery leads to #8 wire. This was in an effort to prevent the starter from stalling and resetting the trip meter. It helped a little.



These changes have improved the personality of my bike. It runs smoother and the few flame outs that I have had since can be attributed to pilot error. I think these are must do upgrades.



My bike is a 2012 TE449 that is mostly stock. It is not powered up. I have removed the vacuum leak they call the evap canister. I have just over 1000 miles on it. It gets 50 mpg. I have changed to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket. It will now idle at 5 mph and the top speed is 78 mph. I think the top speed is electronically limited because it gets there quickly and easily and stays right at 77,78 tucked in or not.
 
I think the top speed is electronically limited because it gets there quickly and easily and stays right at 77,78 tucked in or not.

My TE511 was used for JD jettings EFI setup. Seat of the pants told me it would not rev out as far as it should and JD confirmed this. Was due to an overly lean condition. My personal bike would not pull over 8000 on the dyno before falling
on it's face due to way to lean. The JD jetting EFI tuner richens up this WFO map and allows it to rev the other 2000 plus RPM. My bike will do over 90 no problem now.

From JD's dyno, the EFI tuner and my TE511

Blue is stock but with race map and decatted muffler and red is the same but JD EFI tuned. As you can see here the bike will not pull past 78 mph.

JD-511-M.jpg
 
Desertyucca I think you are on to something. I am one of those Te owners that has electronic and mechanical experience that you are looking for.

I am amazed that the throttle body is nor grounded. Anyone that has used a shop vac or air compressor knows that air movement can cause static electricity to build up. With the throttle body on the TE449 the arc path to ground is through the TPS into the ECU. This could not be good.

I added a ground to the throttle body.

I also grounded the ignition coil directly to the frame. I think this will help prevent ignition noise from entering the ECU as well as hopefully preventing a failure of the ground wire.



I had already moved the battery ground to the nearby sub frame bolt and increased the size of the battery leads to #8 wire. This was in an effort to prevent the starter from stalling and resetting the trip meter. It helped a little.



These changes have improved the personality of my bike. It runs smoother and the few flame outs that I have had since can be attributed to pilot error. I think these are must do upgrades.



My bike is a 2012 TE449 that is mostly stock. It is not powered up. I have removed the vacuum leak they call the evap canister. I have just over 1000 miles on it. It gets 50 mpg. I have changed to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket. It will now idle at 5 mph and the top speed is 78 mph. I think the top speed is electronically limited because it gets there quickly and easily and stays right at 77,78 tucked in or not.
Hi Radar! You work on Radar? I work in RF areas :thumbsup:

I was also amazed the ground wires from the battery to the engine as well as the main wire harness grounds were so undersized. Resistance increases when copper is heated. Indication why the starter is dragging when hot.

The entire grounding idea was a long shot and so far the bike as you indicated has a new personality once all the grounds were added.

Thanks for your feedback! :cheers:
 
My TE511 was used for JD jettings EFI setup. Seat of the pants told me it would not rev out as far as it should and JD confirmed this. Was due to an overly lean condition. My personal bike would not pull over 8000 on the dyno before falling
on it's face due to way to lean. The JD jetting EFI tuner richens up this WFO map and allows it to rev the other 2000 plus RPM. My bike will do over 90 no problem now.

From JD's dyno, the EFI tuner and my TE511

Blue is stock but with race map and decatted muffler and red is the same but JD EFI tuned. As you can see here the bike will not pull past 78 mph.

JD-511-M.jpg
Just WOW!

:thumbsup:
 
Desertyucca, Yes I am a retired marine radar and HF radio tech and old busted up desert racer.



Motosportz, I am unburdened by any knowledge of the facts so I can speculate at will. I think the 2012 TE449 in reduced power mode may have a speed or rev limiter feature. In race map of coarse it would not. The only lean running symptom my bike has is it won't go to warp factor 12 like yours will. But I don't want that. What I have now is the ultimate trail bike running in impulse power.

 
Desertyucca I think you are on to something. I am one of those Te owners that has electronic and mechanical experience that you are looking for.

I am amazed that the throttle body is nor grounded. Anyone that has used a shop vac or air compressor knows that air movement can cause static electricity to build up. With the throttle body on the TE449 the arc path to ground is through the TPS into the ECU. This could not be good.

I added a ground to the throttle body.

I also grounded the ignition coil directly to the frame. I think this will help prevent ignition noise from entering the ECU as well as hopefully preventing a failure of the ground wire.



I had already moved the battery ground to the nearby sub frame bolt and increased the size of the battery leads to #8 wire. This was in an effort to prevent the starter from stalling and resetting the trip meter. It helped a little.



These changes have improved the personality of my bike. It runs smoother and the few flame outs that I have had since can be attributed to pilot error. I think these are must do upgrades.



My bike is a 2012 TE449 that is mostly stock. It is not powered up. I have removed the vacuum leak they call the evap canister. I have just over 1000 miles on it. It gets 50 mpg. I have changed to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket. It will now idle at 5 mph and the top speed is 78 mph. I think the top speed is electronically limited because it gets there quickly and easily and stays right at 77,78 tucked in or not.
Radar can you please post some pictures of your grounding modifications? I am tentative to make electrical mods so the more photos the better. It would be greatly appreciated.
 
Radar can you please post some pictures of your grounding modifications? I am tentative to make electrical mods so the more photos the better. It would be greatly appreciated.

I will do that next time I have it apart.
 
I tried a few concept's, I wanted a Buss type ground to attach all my grounds to.

With all the great minds and experience we have on this forum someone will find the magic install that works and looks nice :thumbsup: I am worried the solder will work loose some day, back to the drawing board. I would like to see other installs :cheers:


1st design, test phase. Few desert runs and one GP. Worked great.
https://plus.google.com/photos/105926185939846057121/albums/5816752609275266801

Used this on the LA-B2LV run.
Photo Link using two braided ground straps from Napa. Some 400 deg solder. Shrink tubing.
https://plus.google.com/photos/105926185939846057121/albums/5816753331101514769
 
8232981539_8d7e3b48da_m.jpg



This photo shows my ignition ground modification. I spliced the existing ground wire into a braded wire. I kept the ground wire as short as practical and solid mounted the splice to the plug. Hopefully this will reduce vibration induced metal fatigue.



The braded ground wire connects to the frame under a hose clamp and continues on to the engine ground lug.


8232970353_a03cbd7ba4_m.jpg





In this photo you can see the larger battery leads with the negative lead connecting to the new ground point at the sub frame bolt. Also you can see the green ground wire on the throttle body
 
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