• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE610 --09 Vibration ---:confused:--Help

Blazes

Blazes

Husqvarna
AA Class
My 610Te now has 11,000km's on the clock-has given me no problems -except for a blown indicator globe and a headlight bulb--

About a week ago i went on a 600km solo ride and noticed that under load it felt as though a vibration was coming from somewhere--Felt like the chain was to tight and when i went over a bump it would seem to get worse--also when i prejump the suspension felt like the chain getting very tight--checked all that and it was Ok.

Today i checked the prejump with the clutch in--nothing no vibration or strange feelings until i engaged the motor again and put load on it--permanently there.

Could it be the carrier bearing at the front sprocket --input will greatly be appreciated.
 
Check the top motor mount bolts. There are 2 small ones at the top of the bracket over the cylinder head that come loose. Need to remove the tank to really see them. Locktite them good.
 
K7MDL;117684 said:
Check the top motor mount bolts. There are 2 small ones at the top of the bracket over the cylinder head that come loose. Need to remove the tank to really see them. Locktite them good.
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Thank's will have a look and get back ----had a look at the front sprocket shaft and bearing for play --could not find anything --so i will take off the tank and have a look --:thumbsup:
 
Yep I was going to guess "woodruff key" but then he said it was fine until he let the clutch out. Hmmm :excuseme: I will be curious to see what the problem is.
 
That woodruff key is a strong possibility. Looks like the counterbalancer can rotate in and out of sync if the key is sheared, causing an intermittent vibration problem.. Blazes will be lucky if it's just the $2 part :thumbsup:
 
Barterer;117864 said:
That woodruff key is a strong possibility. Looks like the counterbalancer can rotate in and out of sync if the key is sheared, causing an intermittent vibration problem.. Blazes will be lucky if it's just the $2 part :thumbsup:
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Going to strip it tomorrow--will give you all feedback--and thank's guys for the positive input that i always receive on this forum :thumbsup:
 
Sorted ---KZMDL was right --Thank's it was the engine mountings under the tank----checked the woodriff key while i was about it --All good that side --Thank's all for the great response and super input as well as links ---- You guy's Rock :applause:
 
Blazes;118122 said:
Sorted ---KZMDL was right --Thank's it was the engine mountings under the tank----checked the woodriff key while i was about it --All good that side --Thank's all for the great response and super input as well as links ---- You guy's Rock :applause:
Click to expand...

Did you actually torque and loctitie the nut while you were there anyway.??. I just ask cause after I saw it happen on an 08. I checked mine visually as well.... She looked good and the washer was folded over too.. Shoulda torqued her though.. Cause guess what?? About 1-2000 miles later that's when mine let go.... Not to make you paranoid.. lol.. ;)

I too had a loose top engine mount at one time also before that btw..
 
LRPct;118257 said:
Did you actually torque and loctitie the nut while you were there anyway.??. I just ask cause after I saw it happen on an 08. I checked mine visually as well.... She looked good and the washer was folded over too.. Shoulda torqued her though.. Cause guess what?? About 1-2000 miles later that's when mine let go.... Not to make you paranoid.. lol.. ;)

I too had a loose top engine mount at one time also before that btw..
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Thank's checked everything :thumbsup: eveen found the swing arm bolt needed to be torqued and the bolts that hold the motor in front at the cradle under exhaust ---- Basically just cost me new oil after i checked the woodriff key---
Just note to self--check EVERY nut and bolt after every ride--:banghead:
 
Blazes;118269 said:
Thank's checked everything :thumbsup: eveen found the swing arm bolt needed to be torqued and the bolts that hold the motor in front at the cradle under exhaust ---- Basically just cost me new oil after i checked the woodriff key---
Just note to self--check EVERY nut and bolt after every ride--:banghead:
Click to expand...

I have found that after you check them all a few times, you eventually find 99% of the problem ones early and they are fixed up and no more issues. After the first few rides, loctite-ing nuts, and replacing weak bolts with 12.9 hardened bolts and sometimes backing nuts on bolts protruding through welded frame threads, I have no more bolt issues.
 
K7MDL;118290 said:
I have found that after you check them all a few times, you eventually find 99% of the problem ones early and they are fixed up and no more issues. After the first few rides, loctite-ing nuts, and replacing weak bolts with 12.9 hardened bolts and sometimes backing nuts on bolts protruding through welded frame threads, I have no more bolt issues.
Click to expand...

True--remember one year prepping a bike for Scott Harden when he came here to Race the roof of Africa. Had a list as long as my arm on what had to be done to the bike before he got here, Remove powder coating where frame meets sub frame or any bolts etc --Then tloctite all nuts and bolt -- I think a must with any bike --
 
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