• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE630 dyno results and thoughts

Yes, I bought the bike from Donald Cooper with 125 mi on it. He had a big harem of Italian bikes. That's why I bought the 610 over the 630. Ferracci took it right out of the crate to the shop. The dyno chart came with the bike. After talking to Don, I felt really great about the purchase and still do a year later.
 
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had the bike dynoed this week, red line is stock & blue is with fmf,ehs in air box cover & power commander,53 hp &39 ft-lbs stock & 56hp & 44ft-lbs, havent ridden it yet cant wait.cant figure out how to make the picture bigger
 
Larry, You found a hell of a bike there! Always nice to run across a "well heeled" guy getting rid of one of his toys. If would be helpful to mention the built motor if you're going to offer hp numbers though. It likely has 10 more hp than it did stock.


djc, Nice results! You found a ton of avg hp increase, it's going to ride like a different bike. Perfect example of dyno proven tuning results. People can argue about hp numbers but there's no debating you found a bunch of power. You've got me curious about opening up the intake tract. May have to make some pulls w/o the airbox lid sometime.


Thanks for sharing guys, this is why forums are great.


Here's an interesting article that came across my FB today from Brock. http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/?a=432&z=22


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Larry, You found a hell of a bike there! Always nice to run across a "well heeled" guy getting rid of one of his toys. If would be helpful to mention the built motor if you're going to offer hp numbers though. It likely has 10 more hp than it did stock.


djc, Nice results! You found a ton of avg hp increase, it's going to ride like a different bike. Perfect example of dyno proven tuning results. People can argue about hp numbers but there's no debating you found a bunch of power. You've got me curious about opening up the intake tract. May have to make some pulls w/o the airbox lid sometime.


Thanks for sharing guys, this is why forums are great.


Here's an interesting article that came across my FB today from Brock. http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/?a=432&z=22


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DYNOBOB, I should have mentioned the work done by Ferracci. The piston is 98mm, but there are guyz on here talking about getting 100mm piston. I don't know, but I don't think 98mm's is too radical. I think 100mm would be pretty radical.

You're right djc, there is a lot to be learned from the forum members!
 
100% correct. There's a lot of misunderstanding out there about dynos. They are really just a tuning aid. Once you find the settings that your bike makes best power on one dyno it will be the same settings on any dyno. The absolute number is not really important. What matters to me is that when I twist it w/ my buddies ktm 990 I'm not leaving 10-20% of my power on the table :). Furthermore, a bike running at its best settings is running clean and efficient. Google some reading about long term effects on an engine running rich.

Larry, Looks like your bike just had cams, piston, and head work. What did it make before they did the work? If you don't know, than you don't know if you got what you paid for. Also, the dyno sheet says it was 90 deg F at 9:26am? That seems unlikely and affects the dyno correction factor up. I'm not saying FBF did anything wrong, they're a reputable outfit that know how to find hp, but all I'd care about is what did my bike make before and after.

Because I've had my setup for 17 years I have lots of anecdotal evidence on whether my dyno makes good numbers. Brock of "Brocks Performance" has been an acquaintance for years. He got the latest greatest Dynojet dyno 4 yrs ago (I built his dyno room). He knew that the new S1000RR's were making less power on his dyno than everybody else's. Dynojet however will not adjust your software just because you say your dyno reads low. So he came and borrowed my rig and took it to his shop. Whatever the results showed convinced Dynojet to make adjustments and now his dyno gets similar numbers to everyone else around the country.
Another example, my bone stock 09 Klx 250 makes 20 hp. That is a little strong for a stock KLX. So on the same day I had a Kaw making more than I expected and a Husky making less. One forum saying "no way your bike makes that much hp", one saying "no way it makes that little hp". The dyno is just a dumb hunk of metal and wires, it don't know whats up there.

That being said, I still don't get to wrapped up in absolute dyno numbers. Many don't realize it but there are things a dyno owner can do w/ correction factors to make numbers look better, and I can tell you for certain that the guy that just built your new motor/polished your head is never going to hand you a dyno sheet that says he built you a dog... A good friend once took his CBR in for port/polish/head mill job. Bike made less hp afterwards than before, same bike, same dyno. He would never have known w/o the dyno.

I guess the important factor is to get your bike on point. The maximum performance. forget about the numbers!
 
My dyno tech did a run with the airbox cover totally off and he reckons it didn't make a difference so he didn't bother sticking more holes in it. Good job as it rains a lot over here in uk! We also don't get that extra maze thing in our air boxes over here so dunno. Be interesting to see if you notice a difference dynobob. Taking the whole side cover off is a good start to save you cutting holes in it if it doesn't make a difference. Look forward to seeIng what you find.
 
Sometimes its not just the airflow but how the air is directed into the TB. I recall reading a tech article where they measured the airbox pressure on a stock 1000cc bike with ram air (can't recall the brand). The pressure wave resonance readings in the airbox were amazing. Anything they did with that airbox made it slower. It may not be an issue using a single TB. Nice HP numbers. Cam.
 
hi finally rode the bike last week & was more so impressed with the smoothness & a lot less chugging in the higher gears & than the out right power,i was more interested in loosing the weight than anything else,however had a muck around drag with a 2010 690 & caught & passed it but stopped at about 130k or so,the 690 feels more powerful though{as i remember}
 
Are you running the stock map with the FMF or are you using the FMF map? Hard to tell from the info provided. Looking forward to installing my PC V but need to figure out which map to run first. Have you compared with Ken Webb's map if he has posted yet?
 
Haven't seen Ken's map yet.

I'm running the map for a stock bike still. I tried +/- 5% fuel values from the stock map on the dyno and saw no improvement. I concluded the single FMF must flow very similar to the stock duals.


Edit: I don't remember seeing the FMF map on the Dynojet website before now, that may be Ken's map.


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I have to admit that I can't find my map! I pulled it out of the box to publish, but put it somewhere when my scanner stopped working. I'm looking......it's here somewhere.
 
Put my buddy's new (used) 630 on the dyno yesterday. PU kit, full LeoV, no airbox baffle, 1020miles. Someone had previously set the iBeat CO settings to 104/106/108 but the bike was still lean. We ended up at 110/110/120, found some hp on the big end and got rid of the decel pop. There was a range of ~118-121 that was pretty similar hp on the third number. His bike makes about 1hp more than my bike with a FMF slip on.

In hindsight, I maybe should have bought the iBeat before (instead of?) the PC-V. Get iBeat, find a dyno, and you can prob get 90% of a PC-V and be able to pull codes.

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In your opinion does the single Leo system offer a bit more hp/torque than the FMF slip on (assuming stock airbox with no mods)?

Also does it appear that the single Leo system requires more fuel in comparison to the FMF slip on?
 
Yes.

This is my FMF pull last Nov vs. his LeoV pull. I should have put my bike on right after his to eliminate air as a variable. In any event I do believe the Leo is the better system (as it should be). It also reinforces my belief that the FMF flows pretty much the same as the stock exhaust. It will be interesting to see how our mpg compare...

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Put my buddy's new (used) 630 on the dyno yesterday. PU kit, full LeoV, no airbox baffle, 1020miles. Someone had previously set the iBeat CO settings to 104/106/108 but the bike was still lean. We ended up at 110/110/120, found some hp on the big end and got rid of the decel pop. There was a range of ~118-121 that was pretty similar hp on the third number. His bike makes about 1hp more than my bike with a FMF slip on...

Today I had my iBeat connected to calibrate my TPS and I remembered this post. I have always been very satisfied with my bike and no access to a dyno so I never tinkered with CO settings. Knowing that DynoBob's results above were done at approx the same elevation as me I decided to experiment. Previous settings 100/100/100, power up kit, FMF Powercore 4 pipe, airbox baffle removed, snorkle intact and EHS prefilter installed. I first set to 105/105/110 and wow the beast really woke up! First test spin I couldnt believe the extra punch, went back home and upped settings to 108/108/116 and wowser even more. Especially impressed with the extra high end pull. I was tempted to bump it up to 110/110/120 same as above but decided to leave it where it was until I can get to a dyno. My seat of the pants dyno says I just increased my hp by at least 10% maybe more. Now I will definitely find a dyno and do a few pulls to hopefully gain even a little more. Thanks Bob

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You may have found 10%. Jim's went up 6hp at 7k rpm and he started at 104/106/108. If you have an older laptop, the best $150 you can spend on a TE630 is to buy the iBeat adapter.


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You may have found 10%. Jim's went up 6hp at 7k rpm and he started at 104/106/108. If you have an older laptop, the best $150 you can spend on a TE630 is to buy the iBeat adapter.
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You can get it to work with anything with Windows, even if you don't have a serial port. The USB to serial adapters work if you find the right drivers. I got Upstate Cycle back up and running when their tuning laptop took a dump and they had to upgrade.
 
Any tips on purchasing i-beat from a dead stop, ie as not having a laptop or anything? I have a Te630 without any dealer support within 5 hour drive. Mine has the usual mods, full Leo Vince jd tuner etc. I have been contemplating changing to the power commander and finding the i beat hoping for a boost in power and economy. Technically this should happen if an oxygen sensor is still utilized.
Any thoughts?
 
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